Show us your nuts!

Mark_teg

Moderator
Staff member
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4,361
Wheel nuts that is :p

I'm after a new set of wheel nuts for my aftermarket wheels but haven't a clue which ones to go for..
My current ones are black but the problem here is that they get scratched when used.
So, basically if you could help me out and post photos of your wheel nuts fitted, any type at all - painted, anodised, neo-chrome, titanium..
I dont mind paying good money if they're durable!
Also if you could mention:

Brand/model (of course)
How they've held up against road salt, socket / tyre fitters / use, etc

Thanks in advance xthumbup
 

YENRAV

Advanced Member
Messages
297


Muteki SR35's. They also make SR48's which are longer and have an open end.

Made from steel, you'll need hulk too strip these. Supplied with a slim hex socket as to not damage your wheels.

And the best point... you cant scratch these (within reason of course)

If your interested give MAZ a ring at Hond-R: 01235530055

Dave.
 

wayne_teggy

Advanced Member
Messages
354
I am going back to steel lugs. My aluminium ones came loose after a few hot Laps at the nurburgring. My theory was the aluminium got so hot under braking etc they made there way loose. I caught it just in time.
 

YENRAV

Advanced Member
Messages
297
I heard from someone, Maz I think. That ally nuts were now banned in certain race series because of that very reason?
 

wayne_teggy

Advanced Member
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354
A lot of people use ali lugs but not many get them up to the temperature to witness how they can react to major heat. In my case it was after 3 continuous laps of the ring.
 

PORTHOS

Resident Rembrandt
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5,727
None of mine close up but nice set of red work ones here on a random car... (civic!?)



You can get them in Black, Red and Blue:
 

Mark_teg

Moderator
Staff member
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4,361
As I said above, I don't want any that are going to be scratched the first time I use them??
 

YENRAV

Advanced Member
Messages
297
You will scratch/mark ali nuts unless you use plastic bags between the nut & socket as some of my mates do this with their cars. Id recommend steel, heavier yes but alot stronger and depending on finish harder to scratch/mark.

Dave.
 

PORTHOS

Resident Rembrandt
Messages
5,727
All of them scratch as it's always metal on metal, unless you use some sort of covers on them...

Here is one of mine, been on and off about 6 times.... with no particular care, lol.

A tight fitting brace will help the most I guess? I know they are all measured but they wont all be the exact same size.



I am currently on OEM (at least I thought they were!) Chrome ones, when they scratch you can just polish them up without fear of taking the colour off!
 

Mark_teg

Moderator
Staff member
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4,361
All of them scratch as it's always metal on metal, unless you use some sort of covers on them...


I am currently on OEM (at least I thought they were!) Chrome ones, when they scratch you can just polish them up without fear of taking the colour off!
That's pretty much my thoughts right there, are any as robust as OEM?!

Tegiwa to make adapters to use OEM nuts on aftermarket wheels :lol:
 

jon-dc5

Advanced Member
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297
I had Works one's before,didn't find them great at all, They were way too soft and i didn't trust the threading either,

I have Muteki sr48's on now for the last year or more and they're still like new and i've had the wheels on and off a few times,
I think they're made from lightweight steel,and you get long slim socket with them too so it's hard to mark them, Can't fault them really.

 

PORTHOS

Resident Rembrandt
Messages
5,727
That's pretty much my thoughts right there, are any as robust as OEM?!

Tegiwa to make adapters to use OEM nuts on aftermarket wheels :lol:
No idea on that, but I know the OEM's are just so easy to keep looking fresh, polish them every now and then and you wont have to worry about little dings, paint chips and stuffS, they always look good which is why I swapped from the Work ones back to OEM.

IMO, the sticky out ones always look a bit :xaiweb3: ha ha. And they gather so much dirt inside the open ended holes and just expose the threads to more rust.
 
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