CAMs for Stock Valve Train/Compression

[AP-Performance]

You can get a built k24 short block from a company called ERL in the States for roughly 2200-2500 pounds that's fully Blueprinted. If you know anyone working for a shipping company it's not that hard to get the short block back here for reasonable money. With a k20 head you would be looking at a power curve similar to the dyno sheet below. We all know the Dyno Dynamics is conservative with it's power figures so this same setup will easily make +320bhp on other dyno's.

 

[coyote_dc5]

9,500 revs is epic from a 2.4ltr, Power is still 300BHP at 8,000rpm. I'll prob keep the ITR CAMS and ill have the 70mm TB and 2.5 cat back so guessing it would be more like the 300hp/200ft-lb providing it can rev up to 8k.

Love the way this engine produces the stock 220HP on low cam and still more torque than I have now :xnworthy:

I'll check their web page out thanks - Noticed TDi are one of their UK distributors :xcheers:

 

[pulpmelon_r]

The bad boy on the dyno above is running a massive plenum intake manifold, custom header, and stage 4 cams!

I would want to know what a stock dc5 makes on that dyno as there is no perspective otherwise.

 

[AP-Performance]

I would want to know what a stock dc5 makes on that dyno as there is no perspective otherwise.

On average a DC5 with aftermarket exhaust and intake with stock ecu will make in the region of 210-220bhp and 150-ish Ftlb's torque on the Dyno Dynamics ran in shootout mode.

 

[coyote_dc5]

Think he meant a stock K20 head with standard CAMs with RBC and 2.5inch full 4-2-1 system but with K24 bottom end to give us a more direct comparison as to what we'd expect to see from the Frank conversion.

 

[TDi-North]

We are putting together some brand new K24 fully forged bottom end packages with top quality componants which will be about £2500+vat using your K20A bottom end in px. We can then use some of the parts we need including the squirters and having the block machined to accept them. Options on cams, valvetrain etc will also be optional extras.

We are an ERL dealer and what you see from them isn't exactly what you are getting. The parts supplied won't be as the same quality of parts we will be using, block won't be sleaved or have the squirters and I belive they are all 2nd hand reconditioned blocks.
Read small print and you are also expected to pay "core" surcharges for crank and block if you aren't supplying yours.
A proper ERL sleaved, decked block with stroker and your looking at pretty big money. Good like but pretty expensive.

 

[coyote_dc5]

OK Thanks Paul, let me know when you have all the details and we can sit down to discuss.

 

[coyote_dc5]

Just to get this back on topic (K24 discussion will continue in my project thread) does anyone know definitively what aftermarket cams will work up to their maximum intake angle with the stock K20 valve setup?

 

[pulpmelon_r]

off the top of my head: toda a2 and a3 also brian crower stg 2 are mild enough to avance to 50 degrees on stock pistons

 

[coyote_dc5]

Money aside which ones have best and proven power? BC cams not an option?

 

[pulpmelon_r]

Money aside which ones have best and proven power? BC cams not an option?

There are a dozen variables that will affect which cam profile works best, but generally for a k24 with 12.5CR you will be looking at most companies k-series stage 3 or 4.

 

[paul hughes]

Dan,
We tested a 2.4 convertion on a K20 block in 2008, it didnt work. power was ok up to 8k but torque fell off at high revs. for the road I would go with TSX engine and K20a head. It is a proven cheeper option and with BC N+cams it will be a money back guarentee as ever if you dont smile

Paul,

 

[C&S Evo7]

the 2.4 tsx shortblock is the same as the 2.4 accord sport ,afaik

 

[pulpmelon_r]

We are putting together some brand new K24 fully forged bottom end packages with top quality componants which will be about £2500+vat using your K20A bottom end in px. We can then use some of the parts we need including the squirters and having the block machined to accept them. Options on cams, valvetrain etc will also be optional extras.

We are an ERL dealer and what you see from them isn't exactly what you are getting. The parts supplied won't be as the same quality of parts we will be using, block won't be sleaved or have the squirters and I belive they are all 2nd hand reconditioned blocks.
Read small print and you are also expected to pay "core" surcharges for crank and block if you aren't supplying yours.
A proper ERL sleaved, decked block with stroker and your looking at pretty big money. Good like but pretty expensive.

I would love a stage 1 option!

Stock bore and crank
light hone (possibly light 0.25mm overbore)
11:1CR OEM Acura/Honda 2009 TSX pistons
Budget H-beam rods

what do you think?

 

[coyote_dc5]

Dan,
We tested a 2.4 convertion on a K20 block in 2008, it didnt work. power was ok up to 8k but torque fell off at high revs. for the road I would go with TSX engine and K20a head. It is a proven cheeper option and with BC N+cams it will be a money back guarentee as ever if you dont smile

Paul,

Thanks Paul. Ok so you sleaved stroked and bored a K20? Isn't the TSX 2.4 basically a K24 and couldnt this show different results if fitted with forged internal to allow it to rev higher or is a stroked/bored k20 effectively the same?

 

[C&S Evo7]

k24 is taller and has a longer stroke, an easy way to spot them is the orange dipstick (the orange ones are longer)

 

[paul hughes]

TSX bottom+k20 top is best i would say, All the options of block, bore ,and stroke have their own good points so its hard to say what you will like if you had the option to test them all back to back, Its a bit like boobies ! theres a pair for everyones taste

If you go for a 2006-2008 TSX engine there were lots of internal block.crank,rods improvements for this model, better starter pack than others of earlier years. only the head let it down. also a JDM Accord CL7 type -S has the same block but not the 2006-8 improvements.
you can skim the block and head more because the wizzies have better valve-piston clearence etc.etc.etc lots of things we can do with this one, makes tuning part bolt ons easier.drain holes bigger,better counter balances ,I/L valves +1mm etc.etc.
but remember it must be a USDM 2006 on TSX.
We can get you one shipped over if you like.

 

[pulpmelon_r]

TSX bottom+k20 top is best i would say, All the options of block, bore ,and stroke have their own good points so its hard to say what you will like if you had the option to test them all back to back, Its a bit like boobies ! theres a pair for everyones taste

If you go for a 2006-2008 TSX engine there were lots of internal block.crank,rods improvements for this model, better starter pack than others of earlier years. only the head let it down. also a JDM Accord CL7 type -S has the same block but not the 2006-8 improvements.
you can skim the block and head more because the wizzies have better valve-piston clearence etc.etc.etc lots of things we can do with this one, makes tuning part bolt ons easier.drain holes bigger,better counter balances ,I/L valves +1mm etc.etc.
but remember it must be a USDM 2006 on TSX.
We can get you one shipped over if you like.

Can you PM me a price on a K24z3 short motor please?

 

[coyote_dc5]

You have PM Paul

 

[paul hughes]

Can you PM me a price on a K24z3 short motor please?

The Z3 motors were only made from 2008 onwards and as late as 2009 i think in TSX cars, is this deffo the one you want because it will be more expensive for the same thing basically ??? also are you in the UK ??