RBC v RRC inlet manifolds - the difference and what you would go for

Mebz

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skengdR said:
Ive had a k100 or kpro since owning the car and never tried it , is it worth a try ?

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It's a gimmick man
 

skengdR

Advanced Member
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342
carl hammond said:
Tried what? Launching? I‘ve never done it and never will as no need lol. I only know about it as I had to override it for the static sound test at brands
launching with the launch control .

I take mine to santa pod often but the other honda guys ive met out there says the launch control can hinder you more than help.

Just wondered what opinions were

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carl hammond

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skengdR said:
launching with the launch control .

I take mine to santa pod often but the other honda guys ive met out there says the launch control can hinder you more than help.

Just wondered what opinions were

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Oh ok, no idea mate never launched my car as not into it or driving fast in a straight line lol, never have been so cannot comment but I can‘t see it hindering things as it prevents you reving too much and spinning meaning you should pull away more in a power and with power to go and not at the end of the Rev range (if that makes sense)
 

Lemons

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372
Fitting an RRC at the moment. Is anyone able to let me know if you use the black supports on the bottom of the inlet manifold which bolt to the block? They are way out. Can you buy FD2 supports or do you just run without them?

Thanks
 

wocka

Advanced Member
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1,088
Fitting an RRC at the moment. Is anyone able to let me know if you use the black supports on the bottom of the inlet manifold which bolt to the block? They are way out. Can you buy FD2 supports or do you just run without them?

Thanks
Remove them mate, the only fit oem inlet manifold


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skengdR

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342
just as wocka said , remove them , you dont need them

weight reduction :)

ive been running without mine for 10 months now

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Lemons

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372
So this was obviously going to happen. I finally have everything back together and started bleeding the coolant. The car is idling at 3000 revs!! So aborted the coolant bleed after a minute when the revs didn't drop back down. I have set the TPS to 0.5

Is there an idle screw on the throttle body I can use to adjust?

No warning lights on the dash.

Thanks
 

skengdR

Advanced Member
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342
i had a similar issue , i remember when i started the car the first time after the rrc and tb swap.

i adjusted the throttle cable and it was better after that. i thought it was tps but it wasnt.

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Lemons

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i had a similar issue , i remember when i started the car the first time after the rrc and tb swap.

i adjusted the throttle cable and it was better after that. i thought it was tps but it wasnt.

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Thanks for your reply skengdR. I did fiddle about with the cable but might give it another go tomorrow.
 

skengdR

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342
the cable did the job for me in the end , i am guessing you are on a stock ecu ?





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Lemons

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372
Update on this, the throttle position sensor went bad, although still reading 0.5. After swapping it out for an Acuity Hall Effect TPS the car ran great.

Also gave the idle air control valve a clean and swapped out the primary o2 sensor. Both of which can cause idle issues.

Strange how every is great until you start messing with things!
 

skengdR

Advanced Member
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342
Update on this, the throttle position sensor went bad, although still reading 0.5. After swapping it out for an Acuity Hall Effect TPS the car ran great.

Also gave the idle air control valve a clean and swapped out the primary o2 sensor. Both of which can cause idle issues.

Strange how every is great until you start messing with things!
I know what you mean , glad you got it sorted in the end

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