I’ve got a clockwise in at the minute, didn’t have any pressure issues at Thruxton or Snetterton, both of which had long corners where I was in VTEC with sustained G
I’ve put the stronger 16KG rear springs in my YellowSpeed’s and they’re a bit hard for road use. I should’ve gone for 12-14KG’s I think, but it’s not unliveable. You only really notice it when you go over blanket speed bumps or a patchwork tarmac road
I wouldn’t bother - had one but it rusted on the mounting points so binned it off. No noticeable difference, and I’ve had it on track a lot since doing that
I believe you still get some drone with the SF, albeit not as bad as a normal 3 inch.
I’ve got an RM01A, which replaced a TDI 3” system. Haven’t noticed any difference in power but it’s much easier to live with!
NS2Rs are decent if you can only run one set of wheels for road and track, otherwise I’d just track wheels you will not be disappointed with AR-1’s.
Otherwise you’ve got Dunlop Direzza DZ03G’s which are highly rated but no idea if accessible for you
You can try a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone, failing that heat may release it.
Otherwise nothing wrong with drilling it, just be careful of damaging the ring when you make it through the sensor!
You can bridge pins 5 and 9 on the OBD2 port and then read the flashes of the ABS light to tell you what it’s not happy about (Service Check Signal)
It’s likely going to be a rear ABS sensor I reckon
Second vote for TGM. Attention to detail is second to none and good, honest guys. Was down there yesterday and they’ve got some tasty cars in the body shop at the minute!
I did have this issue originally, but fiddled a few times and got it to seal. Been fine ever since.
I believe one of the Tegiwa caps does fit it, as it’s possible you’ve got a fault one, which seemed to be quite a common problem a while ago