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This eventually happens to all DC5's and its most likely the actuator, to test it take the door card off and connect the actuator directly to the battery (you might need to rig up some long wires to do this), if nothing happens replace the actuator, from memory I'm guessing this was around £45...

That all depends on if your car is actually rocking FL shocks, check if the springs wind the same way or opposite, if opposite you have FL shocks and springs.

You can fix most forum links by just editing the address from .com to .club they will still work

Checked your coolant levels?

Have you jacked up the whole rear so you're not fighting against the sway bar?

I think this question comes up every now and then because nobody ever explains why... The FL and PFL shocks and springs are different, this is because the FL shocks use inversely wound springs, this was a development that Honda added to reduce bump steer, as a result the lower spring seat on...

I just mean that's the ideal way to do it, but filler should work fine as well.

Ideally it needs some fresh epoxy resin adding back in, similar to how you would repair the gelcoat on a piece of fibreglass, i think a fair amount of strength is in the outer resin layer on 'wet carbon' as opposed to dry carbon that's been infused and baked under pressure. I don't see why you...

Like i said its marmite https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZBdgbmRBJU Is that what adam said as he smashed it up :lol:

Yes and it doesn't matter if its a facelift or pre facelift car it will fit, you just have to keep in mind the additional parts you'll need to make it work, you will need ep3 tie rod ends (taper is smaller) and a 1mm washer either side of the rear shock mount bushing so 4 i total. Ep3 tie rod...

It is rare especially the centre console part, and its also a bit marmite, personally i just have the rings as the rest is a bit too much to me, as a set in good condition its worth the best part of a couple hundred quid, and the U.S guys will probably bite your arm off for it lol

Trailing arm bushes?

So its your secondary and primary O2 sensors, then your knock sensor and lastly your vehicle speed sensor, have you tried clearing the codes then driving it and seeing if any of it comes back? What you said about the wire that goes behind the clocks, it sounds like your speed converter is...

If it keeps coming up with the VSS, could it not be related to the little speed converter either on top of the gearbox or behind the cluster? These are known to go especially the ones installed on the gearbox as they are exposed to the elements. Could also be a dodgy connection between the two?

As above get some WD40 in there, are you doing this by hand as it can be quite hard to do, or after unlocking the height collar are you trying to turn it using the upper spring locking collar with the c spanner?

Its an hours work and not difficult really, the hardest part i found was unclipping the rods by hand as they can be really really stiff, and you don't want to snap the clips so i didn't use any tools on that part.

From what you have said the knocking is most likely to do with the engine mounts, perhaps they forgot to torque one of them up, when changing these there really isn't anything else you have to remove to get to them, at least nothing that would cause a knocking sound, so id say that is the likely...

You could be right, im sure plenty of people keep these cars just for track use and a low temp thermostat would make sense in that case.

Strange, i think you have 2 options, either pull the thermostat to inspect it or get someone to do a proper diagnostic and look up the ECT. You wont notice the needle move on the standard coolant guage, its not so much a guage, more of a 'im warming up' or a 'im up to temp' kinda thing...

I haven't changed the thermostat on a DC5 before so I couldn't say how long as im not sure what the access is like, but as long as you can access the housing its a 30 min job at most. Having read my previous post are you experiencing anything similar?