Aircon removal FULL guide

wocka

Advanced Member
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1,088
Removed my aircon today so its guide time!!

Here‘s a before photo



You will need a 7PK1345 auxiliary belt, £14-20 from eBay, I got the gates one

If you want to blank off the hole in the firewall after removing the aircon you will need a blanking plate, mine is from exoracing and here‘s the link

http://exoracing.co.uk/exoracing-honda-integra-dc5-air-con-blanking-plate-billet-black-anodized/

MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE GAS SAFELY BEFORE STARTING THIS

First thing you need to do is remove your front bumper, get that out the way and safe. Follow my guide here




http://www.itr-dc5.club/forum/index.php?/topic/49089-front-bumper-headlight-and-bulb-removal/

Right let‘s get started

Remove your intake whatever it might be and then your battery




Remove the battery tie, I usually just undo the bolt and then unhook the back part



Then undo the terminals, live first and then negative. Use a 10mm spanner



Now remove the outer cover, lift the battery out. You will be left with the lower black tray, remove the cable on the left and unclip the bracket holding the negative cable






Now to the aircon, I started by undoing the bracket that holds the main pipe over the top of the engine bay, if it‘s holding the throttle cable (see my relocation guide) then tighten it back up




Now head to the battery tray, follow the silver aircon pipe to a small round unit, unplug the plug and then undo the right hand (or both) 10mm bolts




Now wiggle the right hand hose free



Now head to the passenger strut and undo the join in the aircon pipe, you will need a 19mm and 17mm spanner




Now wiggle and pull the pipes apart



Now follow that hose down, unclip it from the holders and remove that pipe

Now follow the other side of the pipe you just removed, it goes into the firewall. There are 2 nuts and one centre bolt to remove, all 10mm. You will need a deep socket :)




My coolant clips were in the way slightly so I loosened them and slid them down the hoses out the way



Now to remove the metal bracket you need to push in the rubber, it was hard to photograph so I hope you understand, once loose you can wiggle and pull the 2 hoses free (they are one unit)

You can‘t move these far too much so just make sure they are free and move on to the next stage, this is abit right and depending on the manifold your running it might a pain in the ass. I think oem and like my skunk2 are ok, but rbc and rrc might be right

Anyway it‘s a 10mm again and you will need a wiggle end to undo it



Remove the left hand bolts and wiggle the hose free



Now you can remove that whole section, the hose goes down the floor and up and over the engine bay, take your time to remove it without bending any pipes



Ohh to unclip the look wire, there‘s a tap on the green connector, push the tap down and pull it off the bracket

You can now fit the blanking plate or do it last. I carbon wrapped mine to match my other stuff




Now head back to the battery tray and remove the other 10mm bolts and loosen the pipe



Follow this to the front of the car and undo the 10mm bolt on the aircon rad, now feed the pipe through and out




Now remove the canister thing, again it‘s a 10mm, one at the top




Now back over to the drivers side where the pump is, use the wiggle adaptor and remove the second pipe




Now to remove the aircon rad bolts, it‘s held in by one 10mm bolts each side



If you now lean the rad towards the front of the car you will see where the hose joins, undo the 10mm nut




Now remove the hose



You can now remove the aircon rad, be carefully not to damage the radiator or power steering cooling pipes



Now to jack the drivers side up, make sure you use a stand too and remove the wheel



You need to remove part of the arch liner, the 2 clips holding the lower part in and then 2 clips at the front holding the actual arch in, then bend it round over the brake disc and calliper so you have plenty of room



It‘s time to remove the auxiliary belt, the tensioner is this pulley, it‘s a 14mm



I used a 14mm spanner and 15mm spanner doing the link together trick to get more leverage. You need to pull towards the front of the car so the pulley goes backwards. This will release the tension on the belt, you need to pull it quite hard. Hold it in place and remove the belt off the top pulley



Before you remove the belt, draw yourself a diagram of the belt position. I will google it as update this post tomorrow. Now remove the belt

PUMP REMOVAL TIME, please read this before doing it

Once removed head down the wheel arch, look through the hole and you will see the pump. It‘s held in by four 12mm bolts. Before you undo anything, unclip and undo the wiring plug



Now get a 12mm spanner and remove the four bolts, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. You will be able to see which ones



Once these are removed, the pump will still be in place. It‘s held in by little hooks, just lift it off. Be careful as it‘s heavy and may land on your hand. You can go on from the wheel arch side and the front to use 2 hands



Next is a bracket that the pump bolts too, it‘s a paint to undo and remove so you can leave it on if you want. It‘s two 14mm bolts



To remove the pump I loosened the slam panel, I tried through the bottom for ages with no luck. I was fed up so didn‘t grab many pics

There is a 10mm bolt in the centre underneath then two 10mm bolts either side at the top. Once all are removed your slam panel will be loose



I then had enough room to lift he pump out but I might be lucky with that as the skunk2 has the perfect shape

***With a rbc, rrc or other aftermarket manifolds you might have to remove the radiator to get the pump out ***

Refit your new belt following your diagram and then put everything back, refit your slam panel, battery and intake


Here‘s some finished photos of mine. Much better without those ugly pipes








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wocka

Advanced Member
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1,088
SnejVTEC said:
Nice! Did you weigh it all?
Yes I did but I can‘t remember what it was now, around 10kg I think


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wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
Just wanted to add you can remove the aircon fan (drivers side one) but you need to make a bracket to refit the expansion tank that‘s why most just leave the fan on, you could wire them up together

I have removed the fan and made this to fit the tank




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stefanmcc99

Member
Messages
12
Can i ask what type of induction kit that is your running? mine has the exact same and has been fitted before i bought the car.
there doesnt seem to be any markings on it.
 

wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
stefanmcc99 said:
Can i ask what type of induction kit that is your running? mine has the exact same and has been fitted before i bought the car.
there doesnt seem to be any markings on it.
They are made by a company called top fuel in Japan :) I like them. Pretty cool. I‘ve swapped to a ARC now though


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stefanmcc99

Member
Messages
12
Thanks for the reply, ive never seen another one before so its nice to finally know what make it is. :xgrin:
 

wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
stefanmcc99 said:
Thanks for the reply, ive never seen another one before so its nice to finally know what make it is. :xgrin:
No problem mate, not many of them about


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stefanmcc99

Member
Messages
12

Mine has a breather tube coming from the rocker cover into it is the only noticable difference i can see.

Maybe an AC removal coming up soon aswell


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wocka

Advanced Member
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1,088
stefanmcc99 said:

Mine has a breather tube coming from the rocker cover into it is the only noticable difference i can see.

Maybe an AC removal coming up soon aswell


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Mine did but I blanked it and uses a breather filter on the rocker cover

AC barely weighs anything, I only removed mine for visual purposes. If you not bothered about how it looks then I would leave it on :)


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stefanmcc99

Member
Messages
12
wocka said:
Mine did but I blanked it and uses a breather filter on the rocker cover

AC barely weighs anything, I only removed mine for visual purposes. If you not bothered about how it looks then I would leave it on :)


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The rocker cover breather is a good shout actually... it would allow me to rotate the induction kit around a bit more anti-clockwise so the filter doesnt sit as low in the engine bay.
 

wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
stefanmcc99 said:
The rocker cover breather is a good shout actually... it would allow me to rotate the induction kit around a bit more anti-clockwise so the filter doesnt sit as low in the engine bay.
It is supposed to sit that low as that‘s where it gets the air from but yes I agree, i didn‘t like it either


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Teggs

Active Member
Messages
83
Stunning car Wocka, I really should use this downtime to really go to town on the engine bay!
 

wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
Teggs said:
Stunning car Wocka, I really should use this downtime to really go to town on the engine bay!
This is a old setup now. Have a look at my build thread for the latest pics. I‘m making the most of the safe time at home


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