Alignment

[Crackfox]

I'm 7 from soft on front. I'll have to check the rear.

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[Crazylegs]

Did Area corner weight the car when they were doing the alignment?

 

[Crackfox]

Did Area corner weight the car when they were doing the alignment?

No not that I know of.

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[Crazylegs]

No not that I know of.

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No probs, cheers mate!

 

[Crackfox]

Just spit balling here, but would RCA's help with the potential bump steer issue, or am I barking up the wrong tree? I've also read about shims/extended tie rod ends can help. can't seem to find anything DC5 specific though.

 

[carl hammond]

Did Area corner weight the car when they were doing the alignment?

Very unlikely as this is something you have to specifically want to do and it isn't a small or quick job mate, 90% of people don't bother with it tbh

 

[carl hammond]

Just spit balling here, but would RCA's help with the potential bump steer issue, or am I barking up the wrong tree? I've also read about shims/extended tie rod ends can help. can't seem to find anything DC5 specific though.

What issues are you having now? or is it just finding a perfect drive you want?

 

[Crazylegs]

Just spit balling here, but would RCA's help with the potential bump steer issue, or am I barking up the wrong tree? I've also read about shims/extended tie rod ends can help. can't seem to find anything DC5 specific though.

I had some Buddy Club ones on my old Teg and they didn't make any difference whatsoever, in fact they actually made the car feel worse lol

 

[Crackfox]

I had some Buddy Club ones on my old Teg and they didn't make any difference whatsoever, in fact they actually made the car feel worse lol

Could be wrong if my googlefu has been poor. My understanding is if you have bump steer to a lower car on coilovers then this may help line things up as OEM should be. However II imagine if the rods aren't out of alignment, then they would be if you used this, and therefor would create bump steer.

 

[Crackfox]

What issues are you having now? or is it just finding a perfect drive you want?

Still trying to get to the bottom of things. It's generally a lot better since Area dis the alignment.. I have also been chatting with Meister and playing with the damping which has helped somewhat. i'm 12 click from soft on the front and 10 on the rear ( rear was 7 from hard). This is as far as i can go without making the issue worse. the only way i can think to go after this is the tyres, short of a third alignment. i came across a BMW site and they were discussing this very issue on the E36 and saying similar things to what I've read here on stiffer walls, and someone said anything over 215 in the tyre and they get it. Also happened to say my tyres are crap too. But either way it's all forum chat and as ever, never definitive. If i do even decide to bin off 4 decent treaded tyres and swap them, I''m still non the wiser as to whether it;s the wall stiffened, width of just a not great tyre. but i have a thread running on tyres so i won't get too excited here. I was in no doubt happy with Area's work, certainly more than the first guy that worked on it, but there is still something missing here. I have had a couple of text with them, and the first thing he said when I said i noticed 225's on the car was " I should have noticed that. they wont be doing you any good. You need 215/45"

The only reason i'm back on it is because I was overtaking a cyclist last night, nipped over the centre line, my wheels did what ever it is they're doin, and the next second I'm heading at the guy. LSD or not, I fail to believe this is normal behaviour for any car. I was only doing about 50 as well. Plus I still cant help but think back to by DC2, not the best example was bought, yet on the drive back I was quite confident hitting the speed limiter (125?), because the car just kept going. So far in the DC5 I've progressed from being able to do 60 to now being able to do 70. I've also noticed this week that it feel better going round right handers than left.

I've been reading through a lot of old threads the last few weeks, and it seems it has been an issue a few time. emmydc5 mentioned she had it on her first dc5. Assuming there was then a second she didn't have it on, it would suggest this is nothing to do with the lsd as people keep saying.

 

[carl hammond]

Still trying to get to the bottom of things. It's generally a lot better since Area dis the alignment.. I have also been chatting with Meister and playing with the damping which has helped somewhat. i'm 12 click from soft on the front and 10 on the rear ( rear was 7 from hard). This is as far as i can go without making the issue worse. the only way i can think to go after this is the tyres, short of a third alignment. i came across a BMW site and they were discussing this very issue on the E36 and saying similar things to what I've read here on stiffer walls, and someone said anything over 215 in the tyre and they get it. Also happened to say my tyres are crap too. But either way it's all forum chat and as ever, never definitive. If i do even decide to bin off 4 decent treaded tyres and swap them, I''m still non the wiser as to whether it;s the wall stiffened, width of just a not great tyre. but i have a thread running on tyres so i won't get too excited here. I was in no doubt happy with Area's work, certainly more than the first guy that worked on it, but there is still something missing here. I have had a couple of text with them, and the first thing he said when I said i noticed 225's on the car was " I should have noticed that. they wont be doing you any good. You need 215/45"

The only reason i'm back on it is because I was overtaking a cyclist last night, nipped over the centre line, my wheels did what ever it is they're doin, and the next second I'm heading at the guy. LSD or not, I fail to believe this is normal behaviour for any car. I was only doing about 50 as well. Plus I still cant help but think back to by DC2, not the best example was bought, yet on the drive back I was quite confident hitting the speed limiter (125?), because the car just kept going. So far in the DC5 I've progressed from being able to do 60 to now being able to do 70. I've also noticed this week that it feel better going round right handers than left.

I've been reading through a lot of old threads the last few weeks, and it seems it has been an issue a few time. emmydc5 mentioned she had it on her first dc5. Assuming there was then a second she didn't have it on, it would suggest this is nothing to do with the lsd as people keep saying.

It's a tough one without seeing and feeling the car's actions in person but as you say you can see and read so many things on forums you'll end up going round in circles. People read and see that x y and z did this that and the other and it worked for them or they replaced Honda high quality parts or high quality parts added to a car with cheap tat just because it has adjustability and so on and so it must be better. That's not always or really ever the case people forget the age of a car, the deterioration of oem parts over time, garage queen cars bushes perish through non use and so on.

I wish you were local as I would say try any of my wheels, 215's or 225's. I use 215 on the road at present and 225 on the track but will be going 225 for all uses going forward when mine need replacing.

The one thing I wouldn't be doing is throwing money at parts like RCA's etc as the more you do the harder it will be to diagnose issues if it doesn't solve it, the key is (as you already know) finding the main cause or issue.

So the alignment was done and a geo, was it an oem or more aggressive geo and if more aggressive did you tell them what the car is mainly used for an what you want from it? If the action was overtake and it pulled then these cars have a little but due to low power and torque they lack torque steer so unlikely to be that, also unlikely to be tyres unless they are really really bad which I doubt they are.

Silly as is sounds have you checked tyres pressures? Tyre pressure, wheel alignment and low tread on the tires all can cause the car to pull like you say, I doubt its the LSD at all but is more suspension, tyre, geo or bush related. I have never used Area as the only time I messaged them about doing work on my car they ignored me and so I recently did the work myself with a friend (shame as I heard good things about them and was more than happy to go there going forward).. Anyway did they actually drive the car first to get a feel for what was wrong and done any form of diagnosis before doing any work or was it literally booked in for a geo?

 

[bxlheathsupra]

Aree your bushes ok? Mine were shot and the car was absolute poop on track until i changed them all

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[Crackfox]

Area didn't drive it before, just after. But I wasnt there so I can't say if he was in a position to feel it. I was on a lush flat road the other day and it was a great drive for 800 meters lol.

The first place I went to for alignment checked it over underneath and said he couldn't see anything wrong.

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[carl hammond]

Area didn't drive it before, just after. But I wasnt there so I can't say if he was in a position to feel it. I was on a lush flat road the other day and it was a great drive for 800 meters lol.

The first place I went to for alignment checked it over underneath and said he couldn't see anything wrong.

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What are your settings as to me it sounds like it could be a combination of things or it could be simply down to their geo is aggressive or relatively aggressive and on the roads it drives pants due to this.

People forget an aggressive geonis mainly and really only for track, on an I predictable road with bumps, uneven surfaces, potholes and so on and inconsistent stuff all over it the car will handle awfully as it‘s set for a flat smooth clean track.

Mines just been done and it‘s nothing like it was, on the road it‘s a handful but I‘m mainly on track so it‘s fine with me but if it‘s a road car mainly your better off with a less aggressive setup. Be interested to see your geo settings they have you mate

 

[Crackfox]

What are your settings as to me it sounds like it could be a combination of things or it could be simply down to their geo is aggressive or relatively aggressive and on the roads it drives pants due to this.

People forget an aggressive geonis mainly and really only for track, on an I predictable road with bumps, uneven surfaces, potholes and so on and inconsistent stuff all over it the car will handle awfully as it‘s set for a flat smooth clean track.

Mines just been done and it‘s nothing like it was, on the road it‘s a handful but I‘m mainly on track so it‘s fine with me but if it‘s a road car mainly your better off with a less aggressive setup. Be interested to see your geo settings they have you mate

This is from Area,

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[carl hammond]

This is from Area,

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For the rod it‘s a reasonably aggressive setup mate.

For my first outing this year I‘m running

-2 degrees camber front
-1.5 degrees rear camber
Total 1 degree out front (0.4 degrees each side)
Total 1 degree in rear (0.4 degrees each side)

If you‘re on bad surfaces or uneven roads with adverse or pretty much any camber your car will pull with that setup and I‘d expect it to tramline tbh.

The best setup for the road I have ever felt on a dc5 was mugen shocks and spoon springs on oem rear arms and bolts as the shorter shocks have the perfect balance of camber and height etc.

I‘d say the cars driving as it‘s been setup if it‘s pulling under acceleration as it‘s tramlining and following the road surface which on track it‘d feel really good and direct

Just as an example my mates mainly road car but occasional track H22 DC2 is -1:3 front and 0 rear camber and I believe 0 toe all round for the best road usable setup for the chassis

 

[Crackfox]

For the rod it‘s a reasonably aggressive setup mate.

For my first outing this year I‘m running

-2 degrees camber front
-1.5 degrees rear camber
Total 1 degree out front (0.4 degrees each side)
Total 1 degree in rear (0.4 degrees each side)

If you‘re on bad surfaces or uneven roads with adverse or pretty much any camber your car will pull with that setup and I‘d expect it to tramline tbh.

The best setup for the road I have ever felt on a dc5 was mugen shocks and spoon springs on oem rear arms and bolts as the shorter shocks have the perfect balance of camber and height etc.

I‘d say the cars driving as it‘s been setup if it‘s pulling under acceleration as it‘s tramlining and following the road surface which on track it‘d feel really good and direct

Just as an example my mates mainly road car but occasional track H22 DC2 is -1:3 front and 0 rear camber and I believe 0 toe all round for the best road usable setup for the chassis

So you think get the camber dropped down to like say 1 each side?

 

[carl hammond]

Really depends on your use of the car and roads in your area etc and how you want it to drive

Not the best images but his is how mine sat on Mugen shocks and Spoon springs with oem bolts and rear arms which another forum member bought off me yesterday.

The chambers just noticeable and was amazing in the road, this is the stock camber given with this setup just as the dampers are shorter and I believe it‘s 0.5-0.8 degrees all round or something.

I‘ve only gone up a lot as it‘s for track use and I maxed out on track with the old setup.

If yours is mainly a road car and daily used I Personally wouldn‘t run that much as it‘ll also not be amazing on tyres, but we all drive differently and want different things from our cars mate.

If it can be done for free or cheap to test maybe dial it in a bit and see but all depends, this is why I‘ve always said the setup I‘ve jut sold is 100% better than pretty much any coilover for the road as it‘s honestly amazing out the box and the ride and handling was superb.

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[Mebz]

I would say that is a pretty mild geo set up.

That was my first set up on my first DC5 and it drove fine on the road.

Might sound silly but do you drive with both hands on the steering wheel? Could it be down to the nature of the power steering?

 

[carl hammond]

I would say that is a pretty mild geo set up.

That was my first set up on my first DC5 and it drove fine on the road.

Might sound silly but do you drive with both hands on the steering wheel? Could it be down to the nature of the power steering?

Mild if the roads are good near him, but it does depend on his use of the car and roads he is using as to whether or not it pulls around like he is describing I‘d say