Alignment

Crackfox

Advanced Member
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622
Morning all. I had my alignment checked yesterday after the issues I mentioned in my new car post. I know nothing about suspension setups, this but is a daily drive for me, albeit a spirited one on dry days. I don't drive particularly fast, but I enjoy a good corner. The car came with Meisters on.
So this is the before and after. He's said that he needs to adjust the rears but can't and I need new adjustment arms, but I have no idea what I'm looking at. Any help would be appreciated.


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Johngreen537

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1,470
From the looks he means rear camber arms. They just correct the negative camber you get from lowering.

Set in the garage if you want some.

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Crazylegs

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5,224

Crackfox

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622
Ok. That's a reasonable price. What do the lower control arms do then? He sort of mentioned both, I got the impression either would offer adjustment.
Does that overall setup look reasonable for road use? It does feel better, and weirdly feels like it accelerates better. I do still get a bit of pull on some roads. One section of of the a15 is particularly bad. More divets in the road giving me some wobble for a split second.
The fronts are set to 16 clicks from hard, not sure on rears at the minute. But I don't know the difference between turning the dial, and lifting it to turn it.

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Crazylegs

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5,224
Hard to say really bud. Ideally you want adjustable front bolts as the guy who's set it up for you has probably only been able to do basic adjustment with the arms as they are. Adjustable front camber bolts and rear arms mean you can set up the car to handle better on track and also make the turn in sharper on the road but you'd sacrifice straight road handling to an extent. You can also get adjustable Castor plates as it sounds like you're on coilovers. Ideally you need to take it to a specialist to have it all fully corner weighted and set up mate. Somewhere like TGM Sport, Grinspeed or Area Motorsport.
 

Crazylegs

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5,224
Then again if you're happy with the handling as it is then that's the main thing.
Not sure what the lower control arms do in terms of modifications sorry.
 

Crackfox

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622
Crazylegs said:
Then again if you're happy with the handling as it is then that's the main thing.
Not sure what the lower control arms do in terms of modifications sorry.
That's cool thanks, any info is better than non. I liken the straight line handling to a windy day. In any other car I can cruise down a motorway at 80, one hand in the wheel not a car in the world. In the teg I find it more of a effort to do that,constantly making small adjustment with the wheel.

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bxlheathsupra

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384
To adjust the meisters you need to turn to max then back down to the setting you require. Think im on 15 front and rear ran max for track which was amazing but too much for road use

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Crackfox

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bxlyheathsupra said:
To adjust the meisters you need to turn to max then back down to the setting you require. Think im on 15 front and rear ran max for track which was amazing but too much for road use

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Is that with the knob lifted, or just as is?

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bxlheathsupra

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384
Crackfox said:
Is that with the knob lifted, or just as is?

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Just as is, uou should be able to feel the clicks as you turn

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Crackfox

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bxlyheathsupra said:
Just as is, uou should be able to feel the clicks as you turn

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I can feel the clicks in both positions, it felt a bit like there was 2 adjustments. I'll have to pull the carpet out to check the rear. Missing the easy access pane of the DC2

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bxlheathsupra

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Crackfox said:
I can feel the clicks in both positions, it felt a bit like there was 2 adjustments. I'll have to pull the carpet out to check the rear. Missing the easy access pane of the DC2

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Im not sure why they have the ability to pull up, but if you can feel the clicks then its working i guess. I have my adjusters screwed in all the time

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Crackfox

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622
bxlyheathsupra said:
Im not sure why they have the ability to pull up, but if you can feel the clicks then its working i guess. I have my adjusters screwed in all the time

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Fair one. I'll get at the rears on the weekend. I moved The fronts up from 9 clicks so imagine the rear might be a little hard too

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carl hammond

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3,737
Pretty much everything has been covered here on this I think but the parts you will need all depend on your wants form the car.

Too many people play about with suspension components and in essence ruin a cars handling for our roads. If the car is predominantly a road car I would run pretty much OEM, by this I mean I would basically recommend

Original Bolts (front)
Original rear arsm (non adjustbale
A decent shock and spring combo (over coilobers), either Mugen Shocks and Spoon Springs or OEM shocks with Mugen, Spoon, Eiback spring combo

The reason for this is that it will allow a better feel for the car, less adjustability will eliminate the inconsistent feel you will get on different roads and surfaces and will ensure better tyre wear meaning you'll be buying less tyres as the cars how it should be.

I have bene running the Mugen spoon setup with oem arms and bolts on the road and track for nearly 2 years and am only now about to fit my Bilsteins, camber arms and bolts etc as the cars mainly used on track and I don't need to worry about how it drives on the road as such.

If you want a setup that's basically going to work and be easy to understand and easy for people to sort your geo out etc going forward maybe consider selling the coilovers and do the above.

Other option is you get the adjustable camber bolts for the front, the arms for the rear and run a more aggressive geo which will mean at certain times on certain roads you'll be wondering why the cars all over the place, why it wont drive straight and why it's a bit skittish. This is as it's struggling with grip or being dragged into tramlining everywhere as the roads are a mess.

There are pro's and con's and no one can tell you exactly what will work for you as such but depending on your need and wants from the car you have a number of options avail.

Just for reference though a few have seen my track footage with my above mentioned setup and the cars no slouch so you'd not be disappointed with whatever route you take (but think about what you may want in future also) as do it right once and first time with also save £££'s going forward mate
 

Crackfox

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622
bxlyheathsupra said:
Im not sure why they have the ability to pull up, but if you can feel the clicks then its working i guess. I have my adjusters screwed in all the time

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Fair one. I'll get at the rears on the weekend. I moved The fronts up from 9 clicks so imagine the rear might be a little hard too.

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Crackfox

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622
Thanks Carl. Not sure how I got a double post in there. The guy i went to seemed to know what he was saying, I just didn't. He said he'd.set it up on what he thought was right, inwasjust staring at random numbers.
Area doesn't seem like a bad run from me to be fair so I might have a chat with them before I start buying things.
All I know right now is if I mess around too much my wife will have my balls.

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Crackfox

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622
Just had a reply from Area and they suggested it might be bump steer. Hopefully I'll be able to find time to get to them and get it looked at.

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Crackfox

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622
Just got in from Area motor sport. Great guys that obviously know their stuff. Worth the 5 hour round trip imo. They've fitted rear arms, raised the back and realigned it. The problem I was having is definitely better, less feeling like I'll be off the road any second at 50-60mph. I can still notice it above 70 though on particularly bad/bumpy roads. Still worth the trip and money for a more enjoyable drive. Will definitely be going back if I need more work in the future.

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wocka

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1,088
Have you tried setting it on the softest setting and going for a drive out? Leave the rear plastics out until your happy with how it feels and then put them back in

I‘m running yellows not Meisters but I can sit on the motorway at any speed no problems at, no pulling and constantly adjustment. so no reason why you can‘t

Yellows have 32 adjustable damping, I‘m on 10 clicks on the front and 15 rear (going on 0 is softest) and to be honest, I might go down from this

I‘m -1.5 camber all round too by the way


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