Brake bleed and fluid change.

C&S Evo7

Administrator
Staff member
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8,229
I was asked to do a quick workthrough on bleeding and fluid changing but am travveling so heres my best (i will try and update when i get back)


This is my personal method and by no means gospel they may be some errors as i have done it typing on my iphone you will need some spanners (ring spanners are best for the bleed nipples) and a brake bleeding kit (from halfords etc) which needs to have a silicone type hose (to fit snugly on the bleed nipple) and a clear pipe (so you can see bubbles) that goes into a container.
most importantly some extra brake fluid,

I would do the bleeding BEFORE fitting new pads and discs . if fluid leaks out during the bleeding stage, which it will, it is not great to get it on the pads so leave the old ones in for the moment, it also helps that the existing pads and discs are bedded together.

if you are going to flush the fluid and do a complete change for some decent stuff, then rather than waste the good stuff also pick up some halfors special (anything that is compatible with the good stuff)

you are going to use the cheap stuff to do the bleeding first , then when the air is totally out switch to the good fluid.

To change hoses and bleed brakes.

Firstly raise car safely with all 4 wheels removed, remove the fluid resevoir cap in the engine bay .engine off.


-start with the fronts
--one at a time remove the old hose from the caliper and brake fitting in the wheelwell and fit the new hose but NOT to the caliper just yet.
-- once hose is attached to the body gently press the brake pedal until some fluid comes out of the hose.(if you dont do this, all the air that is in the hose has to be bled though the caliper so can take longer.)
-- then attach to the caliper (remember to use new copper washers)

Then repeat for the other calipers.

so now we should have all new hoses on with minimum air inside (it may be necessary to top up fluid during this procedure)

- Starting with the furthest caliper away from the resevoir fit the brake bleed kit hose, loosen the bleed nipple and depress the brake pedal , once the pedal is at the floor tighten the nipple (this is usually only a 1/4 turn type deal), repeat this process until there are no bubbles comming out of the pipe into the bottle.you may have to top up fluid while doing this (just use the fluid from the bleed bottle or the new cheap stuff)

it will take a few minutes to bleed .

when you press the pedal the fluid is forced down the pipe and assuming the bleed nipple is open the fluid and air will be forced out. the nipple should be tightened while the pedal is at the floor, the pedal can then be released . the bleed nipple opened and pedal pushed again.the brakes would normally be bled in a diagonal pattern so whichever rear caliper you start with pick the opposite front one next.

FRONTS are a little special, they have two bleed nipples BOTH need to be bled at this stage starting with the inner one, once that is bubble free then the outer one.then the other rear caliper then the other front.

so once all the hoses are on and brakes are bled you should be able to feel the pedal go hard, if it is still soft

then there is probably still air in the system so you need to bleed again. (if you fitted new pads and discs beforehand you can get a soft pedal until they are bedded in which is why i would do them at the end.

once you are happy the system is bled and leak free we can think about changing the fluid.

i normally mark the bottle into 1/4's
again starting with the rear
-losen the bleed nipple and pump fluid out as before, tighten and loosen the nipple with each press, this time there should be no bubbles just fluid and keep topping the resevoir up until you reach the 1st mark,
then do the same for the front but only go halfway down the next mark on the inner and the rest on the outer.this should see all the new fluid in the stystem with little of the standard stuff left inside.

Grov, please call me if it is not clear, brakes are very important.
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,244
About to do this, calipers off and braided lines ready to go on, Can't seem to see where the braided line goes (as in where the old one gets removed) anyone able to explain or show me? Finally when doing the bleeding do you do rears (passenger side then drivers side then passenger front then drivers front?

Thanks

Carl
 

Johngreen537

Advanced Member
Messages
1,474
Carl, just swap like for like while you are doing it. Not complicated, remove rubber pipe, replace with braided and the new washers.

Bleeding, general rule on any car is start from the furthest away from master cylinder and work to closest. So on teg, rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver.

Also o the brembos, you need to bleed twice, inner and outer. Do inside ones first.

If you're not confident, take it to a garage for the sake of £100 and ask them to watch for next time.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,244
Carl, just swap like for like while you are doing it. Not complicated, remove rubber pipe, replace with braided and the new washers.

Bleeding, general rule on any car is start from the furthest away from master cylinder and work to closest. So on teg, rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver.

Also o the brembos, you need to bleed twice, inner and outer. Do inside ones first.

If you're not confident, take it to a garage for the sake of £100 and ask them to watch for next time.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Cheers mate a friend is going to help do the bleeding, I don't know if my braided hoses came with new washers :-(
 
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