Cursed Car - Need help

Roge172

Member
Messages
6
Long post. Any advice will be much appreciated.

My DC5 has not been performing for a long time as it should. Full bolt ons and a Kpro with tune.
For the first year after the tune the car ran great. Then things slowly went donwhill.

Some days the car runs fine and other days it runs with all the mentioned problems.

Symptoms - Completely bogging out if given anything over 30% throttle under 2-3k and sometimes hitting lean cut
- When coming off gas into neutral and coasting, the idle bounces up and down
- Sometimes when sitting at idle the revs drop randomly and bounce back up. You can hear the hiss from the intake disappear momentarily and sometimes my USB input disconnects at the same time
- Jerking and stuttering at low revs in first gear
- On cold start up, my exhaust sounds very lumpy and almost like it is miss but with no codes coming up. My readout shows me that Im locked at 10.7:1 for about 5 seconds and then the idle slowly goes up as my ratio leans out before dropping back down again as the engine warms up
- When I take off, right as I'm depressing the clutch pedal, my revs drop by a noticeable amount
- The car shudders when I turn it off
- If I stall, the car will not restart straight away. It turns over but will not start or it will start and idle at about 200 rpm
- Lack of power throughout the rev band
- Last but not least, I get an intermittent code on startup every few days for P0452. EVAP Sensor Low Input

These are the things I've tested/replaced and believe not to be the problem - TPS, MAP sensor, IACV, Spark Plugs, Injectors, Ignition Coils, Fuel Pump, Fuel filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Vacuum Leaks, O2 Sensors, Fuel Cap. I have monitored my Hondata app and I appear to be maintaining 14.1-3 volts from my battery at all time. My Primary O2 sensor is showing around 2.5ish volts at idle and increases/decreases with revs
I have compression tested the car. It showed even compression across all 4 cyclinders within factory specs. The car does not use water or blow smoke. It does use oil
I have also tried using different base map tunes through Kmanager and these problems still persist so it is not tuning related

One last strange point I have is that on the days where the car runs fine, the throttle pedal has a very firm feel to it. On days where it is running poorly, it feels much softer. I can only attribute this to something related to vaccum within the intake manifold.

Im slowly going insane trying to figure this out. Thanks in advance for any ideas/advice that could help
 

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
Messages
5,224
I really feel for you especially after replacing so many parts, mine was running similarly to yours yesterday morning on startup which it's never done before. Sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders, turned it off and on again and it started spluttering then the revs shot up.

I've probably mentioned this before but I take it the car has been mapped properly by someone who actually knows what they're doing?

I'd take it to Chris at EFI Parts as he'll run a base run and will be able to tell you exactly where any power issues are occurring, fueling etc and it may help to nail down the problem. You may have to leave it with him for a few days so he can test it from cold though that's the only thing. If it's something he's unable to rectify via a remap then he'll tell you.

I'd also get it to a Honda specialist to look at. I've started using Ben at VTEC Direct in Winsford as he's excellent but there are plenty of others such as TGM, Performance Autoworks, Grinspeed and Area Motorsport. I really hope you manage to sort whatever the issue is. I'd also try and grab some Forte fuel or injector cleaner and run it through, fill it to the max with a Shell V power or Momentum99 and take it for a good 3-5 hour run see how it feels. Perhaps it just needs a good hammering. Lol

Sent from my moto g(6) plus using Tapatalk
 

Mark_teg

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
4,361
Sounds to me like an idle control and/or throttle cable issue.

Is the cable free and not trapped or kinked?. Is throttle body movement ok?
After replacing the idle control valve has it been calibrated?

Start with the above or as Marc says, the usual specialists should be able to sort it.
 

Roge172

Member
Messages
6
Unfortunately Im based in New Zealand (ex UK)
The car has been tuned by one of the best honda tuners over here. Its actually been back for a retune and he was unable to spot anything odd. He had it from cold and noticed the problem but the car warms up within a few minutes so it becomes harder to diagnose.

The cable feels free. The throttle body is an s90 70mm. This problem still persisted with the stock throttle body however.
I havent touched the IACV in Kmanager as it was a straight swap for a brand new one. I have already played with the duty cycle and it made no difference.

Im getting to the point where im thinking ill have to start replacing things like the loom and alternator
 

Roge172

Member
Messages
6
I have heard things about the ELD (Electronic Load Detector) causing problems without throwing a code. would this be a possibility?
 
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