dc5 inner CV joint
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hondamad2204
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Yeah, could call it that. Haha. Spent all afternoon calling breakers and various other eBay sellers and it would seem that the place they fail is the drivers side, inner joint. apon closer inspection to mine, the bearings themselves still look and work brand new. The casing on the inside however is pitted on one of the sliderswhich the bearings roll across. So when the bearing hits this particular part, its free to rattle around as its not snug if you like. Most of the dealers etc I spoke to this afternoon all had slight issues with the ones for sale, or too expensive, or weren't sure on milage, and all looked pretty skanky tbh. Not really what I wanted. With the car in bits, I finally found help from R motion. They came to the rescue with a low mileage, EP3 OEM shaft inner cv joint which they are kindly selling me separate and its arriving tomorrow.! This will fit the dc5 one according to more than one source now. Fingers are crossed!!!
Will report back with some pictures of the damage etc to the inner part of my original for you nosy bunch. Right pita today, but all should be normal again tomorrow.... I hope. Hahaha no vtec for what seems like a lifetime now, getting bored
Will report back with some pictures of the damage etc to the inner part of my original for you nosy bunch. Right pita today, but all should be normal again tomorrow.... I hope. Hahaha no vtec for what seems like a lifetime now, getting bored
hondamad2204
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Bit disappointed that this is all it is making the whole car terrible...... A teeny amount of pitting big enough to rattle the bearing inside something chronic! haha was expecting to see something far more exciting. At least I have a replacement now. fitting tomorrow
fitting tomorrow
hondamad2204
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Casting is pitted. maybe it could be machined out or something, but then its a replacement bearing for that one gap as the tolerances would be too small after machining I guess. Seems an awful lot of effort, for something which may not last? I dunno. Either way replacement was far simpler, It was finding it that was the issue. haha both just as inconvenient
Just been informed the car is back together! result. Took my mechanic friend (I work in a college so this is all getting done for free) about 10 mins to rebuild. lovely stuff. Will report back with if its cured it.
Just been informed the car is back together! result. Took my mechanic friend (I work in a college so this is all getting done for free
) about 10 mins to rebuild. lovely stuff. Will report back with if its cured it.
hondamad2204
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It's Fixed! Finally, can start enjoying it again. :xnworthy:
Ok, so my symptoms were,
Now the problem is, its so simple to fix, yet a pita to get the bits you need. I tried TGM, integrastella, and a few other breakers listed on eBay for both DC5 shafts, or EP3 shafts, complete or blueprint replacements. After calling the breakers, they were either selling due to similar condition/ same symptoms as mine, either unsure on mileage, or listed incorrectly.
I then was in talks with Tricker-Luke, who has been going through similar woes with driveshaft's for some time now, and he explained the trouble he was having finding replacements that were new. Anyway, that put me off buying the ones Tegiwa have, as I didn't fancy going through the hassle of them being wrong etc.
So my next purchase was an aftermarket/ blueprint EP3 drivers side shaft, with the intention of splitting it for the bits I need to repair mine. This is also DIDN'T work. The shaft itself would be great as a complete replacement for an EP3, but taking the ends off to fit to an OEM shaft is where the problem lies. the splines are completely different, and too big on the aftermarket shaft. so again, a no go area.
Back to the drawing board and a desperate final try to some breakers on Wednesday as the car was in bits, and R motion came up trumps. :xrockout: They had a good condition, low mileage EP3 shaft in stock, they were willing to split and just sell me the joint and bearings I needed. Result. Next day it was fitted, and fixed all my issues. xthumbup
My conclusion from all of this.
A few options, buy a brand new item from Honda.
Buy a brand new set of lightened ones from japan at cost again,
Buy Spoon ones at a cheaper price than OEM , but supposedly better quality.
Or buy a good used one, EP3 does fit, as long as it is a genuine item, and insure whoever is selling it to you, can insure its not faulty, the answers I got were "its a used item, expect some play" etc granted not from all, but not a risk I was willing to make. lol or some just the availability was an issue, with weeks to wait before delivery.
Hey ho, Hopefully this has cleared up a few issues for what should be such an easy fix. but in reality, especially with my luck, took an age to sort as nobody could diagnose it. the play in the joint was only slight, so remained un detected, but the result was a highly annoying experience.
Happy days.
Ok, so my symptoms were,
- Massive amounts of vibration on throttle/ under load, up hill etc from 3rd gear onwards
- Every time you lift off throttle..., there was nothing. Progressively worse over a period of about 4-5 months from occasionally doing it when giving it the beans, to the slightest bit of throttle and it shakes.
- Clunk when pulling away,
- Acceleration felt relaxed, didn't feel as tight as it should have been.
- And finally, a knocking noise when going over sharp bumps, similar noise made by failing drop links/ topmounts. Well so similar infact, that I changed my drop links last weekend hoping to cure the knocking, only to find it has now gone completely after changing the inner cv. (The new drop links made no difference.)
Now the problem is, its so simple to fix, yet a pita to get the bits you need. I tried TGM, integrastella, and a few other breakers listed on eBay for both DC5 shafts, or EP3 shafts, complete or blueprint replacements. After calling the breakers, they were either selling due to similar condition/ same symptoms as mine, either unsure on mileage, or listed incorrectly.
I then was in talks with Tricker-Luke, who has been going through similar woes with driveshaft's for some time now, and he explained the trouble he was having finding replacements that were new. Anyway, that put me off buying the ones Tegiwa have, as I didn't fancy going through the hassle of them being wrong etc.
So my next purchase was an aftermarket/ blueprint EP3 drivers side shaft, with the intention of splitting it for the bits I need to repair mine. This is also DIDN'T work. The shaft itself would be great as a complete replacement for an EP3, but taking the ends off to fit to an OEM shaft is where the problem lies. the splines are completely different, and too big on the aftermarket shaft. so again, a no go area.
Back to the drawing board and a desperate final try to some breakers on Wednesday as the car was in bits, and R motion came up trumps. :xrockout: They had a good condition, low mileage EP3 shaft in stock, they were willing to split and just sell me the joint and bearings I needed. Result. Next day it was fitted, and fixed all my issues. xthumbup
My conclusion from all of this.
A few options, buy a brand new item from Honda.
Buy a brand new set of lightened ones from japan at cost again,
Buy Spoon ones at a cheaper price than OEM , but supposedly better quality.
Or buy a good used one, EP3 does fit, as long as it is a genuine item, and insure whoever is selling it to you, can insure its not faulty, the answers I got were "its a used item, expect some play" etc granted not from all, but not a risk I was willing to make. lol or some just the availability was an issue, with weeks to wait before delivery.
Hey ho, Hopefully this has cleared up a few issues for what should be such an easy fix. but in reality, especially with my luck, took an age to sort as nobody could diagnose it. the play in the joint was only slight, so remained un detected, but the result was a highly annoying experience.
Happy days.
hondamad2204
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This was going to be my next point of call, if the car wasn't in bits. Lol. I tried a call to honda two maybe 3 weeks ago, and the were going to call me back.....Still waiting.Haha I was getting frustrated with it all so just went for used in the end, at £70 I can't complain tbh. I did phone them up though to question my original phone call, and another guy answered and said its unlikely and pretty much wouldn't check, but im sure Tom had said something to me in Feb about oem ends now becoming available. It was all abit wishy washy so didn't really explore that route, but if anyone else does then post your findings in here. Would like to know.Rom said:
hondamad2204
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Yes they do, I was referring to buying a whole aftermarket axle and splitting it...that doesn't fit. But replacement ep3 ends do fit, but the end I needed was drivers side inner. Couldn't get that new blueprint for love nor money. Every other one is available, but some of their reliability is questionable. I've ended up going good used ep3 in the end. I'm still yet to try Honda to see if replacements are available directly from them.
2ndy
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Done my inner joints today and what a difference it has made, well worth it!
Just to help others out in the future, the majority of Hondas that have a k series engine has the same drivers side inner joint. It may mean using certain from the original and some bits from the other but they will work.
I used my original shaft, the inner cv joint of a 2.0 accord, the bit that holds the bearings from my original shaft and Brand new bearings boot ad clips from a new cv joint I bought.
Now the cars smooth as silk!
Just to help others out in the future, the majority of Hondas that have a k series engine has the same drivers side inner joint. It may mean using certain from the original and some bits from the other but they will work.
I used my original shaft, the inner cv joint of a 2.0 accord, the bit that holds the bearings from my original shaft and Brand new bearings boot ad clips from a new cv joint I bought.
Now the cars smooth as silk!
hondamad2204
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Great to know thanks. And the passenger side too?
2ndy
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Yea passenger side inner is the same also, the accord shaft was thicker so the bit that hold the bearings is the only bit really needed.. Basically just mix and match using the most new parts you can and its a far cheaper alternative than a new part from honda
hondamad2204
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Yeah I've just got an ep3 inner for my gearbox side as that's starting to go the same way now. They are a pain in the bum when they start to fail, but as you said too, when fixed it's soooo smooth again. Haha
Thanks for the info too mate. Handy to know
Thanks for the info too mate. Handy to know