Electrical Issues - Battery Drain

Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
616
So my battery is going flat every week, which is annoying. Not a massive issue now the weather is better as i can leave the extension lead out, but its a pain when i have to take the battery out the car as the alarm doesn't like it.

The battery itself was new in Sept, and a Yuasa 5053 so plenty of capacity. Did a few test today and I'm getting a 0.3A draw with everything off. This goes away when removing Fuse 9 in under the bonnet.

The issue is according to the fuse box cover, this fuse powers a book, and despite having had the car in pieces several times, I have never seen a book in there. I fact I was surprised to even find i owned a book.

According to the owners manual the fuse is 7.5 A WHT/RED Audio unit, Data link connector (DLC), Gauge assembly, Immobilizer control unit-receiver,
Immobilizer indicator, Keyless receiver unit, Multiplex control unit, Security control unit

Mines a 10A for some reason. I pulled it to stop the drain, short term, but my central locking doesnt work now, so I could do with having it in.

Anyone any ideas how I can narrow this down further, short of physically checking every wire in the car?
 

ATC

Active Member
Messages
87
Afraid not much useful to help, I hate all things electrical.

Is there an aftermarket alarm fitted to the car? My suspicion would be something to do with the wiring of that, or perhaps it just draws a lot of current.

I had a tracker on an old car which it came with. Battery used to drain pretty damn quick until I removed it. No issues after that point
 

24Lemons

Advanced Member
Messages
156
Sounds like the previous owner was aware of the issue and fitted a bigger fuse as a temporary fix.

With my old DC2, water got in the doors and sent the Clifford alarm window close unit crazy draining the battery.
 

Vteccin_teg

Advanced Member
Messages
169
Do you have a photo of the fuse box to show what the fuse is powering?
Don't understand what you mean by its powering a book lol?

By what you've written down, and saying what the fuse is powering it could be an alarm/immobiler fault.
Normally if something is draining a new battery that quick, its either something NON-OEM electrical thats been fitted and has gone faulty or a light thats staying on/drawing current.

Could be a faulty door switch causing interior light to draw current (if its LED then I'm sure it needs a certain voltage to emit light but will still draw anything below this and not light up)

Get a multimeter on the interior light and see what the voltage is doing when you open/close the door.

The headunit could also be draining power. Could always fit headunit to run on IGN only but would always have to change clock/date .

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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
616
Thanks for the replies. The alarm seems to work ok with that fuse pulled. Will to pull the stereo power and check if its that. Not sure it would be an interior light, but I'll try and put some back in the car and see, they are on a seperate fuse though, 3 I beleive.

Here's a pick of the book.


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Vteccin_teg

Advanced Member
Messages
169
Fuse 9 says its the occupant detection system.
Could be pressure pad in seat ?
Could be seat belt or something similar?

Another info point says it could be high beam? Try taking fuse out then try high beam?


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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
616

Vteccin_teg

Advanced Member
Messages
169
Crackfox said:
So my battery is going flat every week, which is annoying. Not a massive issue now the weather is better as i can leave the extension lead out, but its a pain when i have to take the battery out the car as the alarm doesn't like it.

The battery itself was new in Sept, and a Yuasa 5053 so plenty of capacity. Did a few test today and I'm getting a 0.3A draw with everything off. This goes away when removing Fuse 9 in under the bonnet.

The issue is according to the fuse box cover, this fuse powers a book, and despite having had the car in pieces several times, I have never seen a book in there. I fact I was surprised to even find i owned a book.

According to the owners manual the fuse is 7.5 A WHT/RED Audio unit, Data link connector (DLC), Gauge assembly, Immobilizer control unit-receiver,
Immobilizer indicator, Keyless receiver unit, Multiplex control unit, Security control unit

Mines a 10A for some reason. I pulled it to stop the drain, short term, but my central locking doesnt work now, so I could do with having it in.

Anyone any ideas how I can narrow this down further, short of physically checking every wire in the car?
Crackfox said:
Thanks. i'll take a look tomorrow. I was just reading through this post which was concerning https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/battery-drain-related-to-backup-fuse-9.842580/page-2
I've just had a thought. Sometimes when fitting an aftermarket head unit the live and ign wires are the wrong way around and have to be swapped, make sure they are the right way around. Normally yellow and red wires.

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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
616
Vteccin_teg said:
I've just had a thought. Sometimes when fitting an aftermarket head unit the live and ign wires are the wrong way around and have to be swapped, make sure they are the right way around. Normally yellow and red wires.

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Wouldn't that leave the stereo actuals on though?
 

Vteccin_teg

Advanced Member
Messages
169
Crackfox said:
Wouldn't that leave the stereo actuals on though?
Not always, its usually displayed by the loss of radio station pre sets. If you lose time or pre sets then they're wrong way around.

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Vteccin_teg

Advanced Member
Messages
169
Had another look on the RSX forum for ypu mate.
Fuse 9 inside cab is rear wiper.
Fuae 9 under bonnet is a spare fuse apparently ?
I know kind of a doffrent car but any info better than no info I suppose

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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
616
Vteccin_teg said:
Had another look on the RSX forum for ypu mate.
Fuse 9 inside cab is rear wiper.
Fuae 9 under bonnet is a spare fuse apparently ?
I know kind of a doffrent car but any info better than no info I suppose

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Not had chance to look today, but it definitely isn't a spare as when I removed it before the central locking stopped working.

ste01 said:
Is it a factory alarm or do you have an aftermarket one?
Its aftermarket.
 

Vteccin_teg

Advanced Member
Messages
169
ste01 said:
It'll be the alarm
Thats what I thought it would be. But he said when he pulls fuse 9 the drain stops and alarm still works?

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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
616
Vteccin_teg said:
Thats what I thought it would be. But he said when he pulls fuse 9 the drain stops and alarm still works?

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Yeah when I pulled the fuse it still armed fine. With the central locking not working I checked the boot the alarm went off. Then disarmed and re-armed with no issue.

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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
616
Vteccin_teg said:
Do both doors and boot lock and unlock via the key?

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No had to do door separately with the key

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Vteccin_teg

Advanced Member
Messages
169
Crackfox said:
No had to do door separately with the key

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Do you have a separate remote for the doors and boot to unlock and lock ?

Then the master key for the barrel?

Did the Central locking ever work with the new alarm and the new fob. Or has it ever worked with the alarm?
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Crackfox

Advanced Member
Messages
616
Vteccin_teg said:
Do you have a separate remote for the doors and boot to unlock and lock ?

Then the master key for the barrel?

Did the Central locking ever work with the new alarm and the new fob. Or has it ever worked with the alarm?
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I only normally use the alarm fob to lock/unlock the car. The Honda remote zapper is filed away with the V5. I only have the manual none zapper key to hand.

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