Help with a few bits, rust, engine mounts, bushes etc

crasherkid

Advanced Member
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279
Hello
recently had my DC5 up for sale but plans have changed so i can keep the car now so happy days.
I would like to ask a few questions, rather than bombarding new threads everywhere, thought i would put it all into one thread.

I'll start off with a slight concern with rust. I've just noticed the rear arches are showing slight surface rust/bubbles. hard to explain, it isn't exactly rust rust but i can see a very faint line of bronze around the inner edges of the rear arches and slight bubbling i think.
I want to get this sorted once and for all. I'm based in yorkshire but wouldn't mind a bit of a travel as long as i can take it somewhere reputable who can fix it.
I've got a photo on my phone, though on the photo it seems bit more pronounced than it actually is in person isn't that bad, but its a start.

I've got yellowspeed coilovers and only sometimes i get a slight squeak when going over speed bumps. does anyone know how much a full bushes kit/fitted would cost? anyone had it done/where to take it? also, would like engine mount inserts without too much vibration if thats possible.
after that I'd like some camber arms/bolts to for a frsu but torn between hardrace or eibach ?
also, with oem wheels, would hubcentric 20mm spacers conflict with the frsu?

also whats more likely to rub/oem wheels with 20mm spacers or 8J ET35 alloys with a slightly stretched say 215 tyres?

once i've sorted the handling, i'd like to work on the appearance. i've got a scratch a few cm's long and a dent on bottom right corner of drivers door going onto the front right wing. Instead of paying for the wings repainted, i was thinking of getting the j's style rep vented wings (i could swear someone was selling them on here for around £200 a few months ago) but can't find the post.
mugen front and rear lips next hopefully from re spirit.
sorry rant over, thank you.
 

GIBLETS

Advanced Member
Messages
311
Regarding the arches I think it‘s a given that they will all corrode after a few years on uk roads, the contributory factor in this is the poor paint job Honda do on these cars, the paint is painfully thin in the best of places.

Having an OCD approach to rust prevention I‘ve been looking at the weak spots on these and have adopted a belts and braces approach, I‘ve removed my interior trim and painted the insides of the rear quarters with Dynax S50 on import to prevent the car rotting from the inside out flooding the bottom of the rear quarter until it pours out of the holes and seams on the underside and also removed the foam sound deadening from inside the rear quarter as this is a definite spot for moisture to harbour.

I‘ve noticed the paint on the inside of my arch lips has sort of feathered away, probably off road debris over the last 17 years, although I don‘t have any corrosion yet I have my car booked in at a local restoration specialist to have the arch lips stripped back and repainted as a preventative measure in a couple of weeks time.

As a guide they‘re charging me £100 per side plus Vat, given that I use the car as a daily all year round I think it‘s worth it when weighed up with fabrication and repair costs should the dreaded rust start to show its face....
 

Mardgee

Advanced Member
Messages
100
GIBLETS said:
Regarding the arches I think it‘s a given that they will all corrode after a few years on uk roads, the contributory factor in this is the poor paint job Honda do on these cars, the paint is painfully thin in the best of places.

Having an OCD approach to rust prevention I‘ve been looking at the weak spots on these and have adopted a belts and braces approach, I‘ve removed my interior trim and painted the insides of the rear quarters with Dynax S50 on import to prevent the car rotting from the inside out flooding the bottom of the rear quarter until it pours out of the holes and seams on the underside and also removed the foam sound deadening from inside the rear quarter as this is a definite spot for moisture to harbour.

I‘ve noticed the paint on the inside of my arch lips has sort of feathered away, probably off road debris over the last 17 years, although I don‘t have any corrosion yet I have my car booked in at a local restoration specialist to have the arch lips stripped back and repainted as a preventative measure in a couple of weeks time.

As a guide they‘re charging me £100 per side plus Vat, given that I use the car as a daily all year round I think it‘s worth it when weighed up with fabrication and repair costs should the dreaded rust start to show its face....
How hard was it removing the interior trim and painting the inside of the rear arches?
 

GIBLETS

Advanced Member
Messages
311
Mardgee said:
How hard was it removing the interior trim and painting the inside of the rear arches?
Not too bad really, rear seats, parcel shelf and speakers out then rear quarter trims and boot side panels out, been over a year since I did it so can‘t remember where the fixings are for the trims but don‘t recall having any issues.

Will be doing the insides of my doors and tailgate this summer, I kind of got fed up after doing every panel and cavity on the underside, inner wings and behind the bumpers when it was imported 18 months ago 😂
 

p1tse

Advanced Member
Messages
2,696
I remember Jimmer did something from inside to the rear quarters

Unfortunately photobucket playing stupid , pictures aren‘t loading

If the rust is beyond the lips and near the edge of the rear quarter or on the rear quarter then it all needs to be redone

The lips have two metal pieces which moisture get inside so overtime all of the uk dc5 will end up this way
 

crasherkid

Advanced Member
Messages
279
£100 a side to have it treated isnt bad at all.
Only problem ive got is there isnt many bodyshops around here, well nobody reputable as such.
 

Johngreen537

Advanced Member
Messages
1,470
crasherkid said:
£100 a side to have it treated isnt bad at all.
Only problem ive got is there isnt many bodyshops around here, well nobody reputable as such.
Can't you ask for progress pictures for proof (for you when you sell)

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

impne

Advanced Member
Messages
684
I‘ve got the entire rear interior out of mine at the moment only took around an hour being careful and steady away, not difficult at all.
I‘m doing the same treatment on mine as jeff has already done on his just to try and protect it going forward even though it‘s only a now and again car for me.
Jeff recommended the Dynax to me and I‘ve found the kit great, really easy to use and great results.
I‘ve also removed deadening and painted the inside quarters so far as well as the rear panel behind the bumper before coating in dynax again just due to the very thin paint that had been applied by Honda and the undersealing that torque put on the car in my opinion was very poorly applied so needed re doing.
Takes a bit of time to do the entire car so doing mine in stages over the winter months
 

GIBLETS

Advanced Member
Messages
311
impne said:
I‘ve got the entire rear interior out of mine at the moment only took around an hour being careful and steady away, not difficult at all.
I‘m doing the same treatment on mine as jeff has already done on his just to try and protect it going forward even though it‘s only a now and again car for me.
Jeff recommended the Dynax to me and I‘ve found the kit great, really easy to use and great results.
I‘ve also removed deadening and painted the inside quarters so far as well as the rear panel behind the bumper before coating in dynax again just due to the very thin paint that had been applied by Honda and the undersealing that torque put on the car in my opinion was very poorly applied so needed re doing.
Takes a bit of time to do the entire car so doing mine in stages over the winter months
It‘s great mate, ideal for DIY and stop/start if you‘re pecking away at it over time.

I‘m taking mine to auto bodycraft in Stokesley, they‘ve just done a bare metal restoration on an NSX and work on many classic and modern Porsche‘s so are quite a trusted place.

The £100 plus vat per side isn‘t to treat anything, the car isn‘t rusting, just in my twisted OCD cleaning and inspection regime I‘ve noticed the paint thinning on the arch lips towards the inner edge so just a strip back and re-paint as a preventative measure, I think it‘s just the debris from the tyres over the last 17 years that has feathered the paint away.

Most of the clean DC5‘s I‘ve noticed on the market that have been on the UK roads a good few years have micro-bubbling on the inner edge of the arch lips which is what I‘m trying to avoid, it‘s a common issue and the start of more severe corrosion.
 

MrRy

Advanced Member
Messages
528
As Patch stated, the inside rear arch panel that connects to the outside arch you see usually has a gap between 0.5m and 1mm around the edge. Once water and salt gets in there, it's a time bomb. The dc2's and s2000's had arch liners as standard, but people never cleaned them and they held in all sorts of crap. At the time I binned my s2000 liners and had the body shop cut away the arches, remake them and seal the arch gap. 95% of Type R's will have this to some degree and there will be a fair few patch-up jobs going around which makes the job far more expensive for longer term owners.

Same with the S2K's actually so this recent post has a good visual example of what to expect longer term if it's not been undersealed and you visually start seeing rust https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-community-25/rear-arch-repair-daytona-autos-1180304/

Get it sorted asap mate, as this is a noticible factor in why I've seen so many dc2's, s2k's and other older Honda's get stripped and broken down in the UK AND why everyone mentions it on the relevant buyers guides for most older Honda's - nobody thinks a bit of rust can cost a lot, but when I had first bought my DC2 and began getting quotes of £1400+, I had a bit of a shock.
 

crasherkid

Advanced Member
Messages
279
I just spoke to a bodyshop. They said they can grind it down to bare metal, primer and paint it but theres nothing you can do about it as itll always come back??
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,741
I just spoke to a bodyshop. They said they can grind it down to bare metal, primer and paint it but theres nothing you can do about it as itll always come back??
THis is true unless you cut it out and fabricate a new bit of metal in that needs to then be welded on and prep'd and primed and treated and painted etc
 

GIBLETS

Advanced Member
Messages
311
Another one to look out for which will kill your car is the points where the bumpers clip into the plastic brackets, the bumper touches the bodywork and rubs the paint away to bare metal which then corrodes and works it‘s way up to the visible area of the panel on the rear quarters and wings.

Best way of preventing this is to remove the numbers and the 4 plastic brackets, paint any areas where the paint has been thinned by the bumpers rubbing and apply vinyl film to prevent re-occurrence, again something that needs to be done before the car sees the grit on the UK roads.

This is another design flaw that causes these to corrode in unseen areas....
 

p1tse

Advanced Member
Messages
2,696
crasherkid said:
I just spoke to a bodyshop. They said they can grind it down to bare metal, primer and paint it but theres nothing you can do about it as itll always come back??
What did they quote at £?
 

crasherkid

Advanced Member
Messages
279
They said they can grind it down to bare metal/prime and paint etc for £180.
But what he said itll always come back so i said are you talking months or years and they said it depends.
If i paid that to have it done, theres no guarantee that after say a few months it might start to appear again??
 
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