How to fit rear LCA’s, subframe brace & a tie bar.... on a budget

wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
Hello guys

This is a complete guide on where to buy and how to fit this complete setup



Tools needed.....

Good jack and stands

17mm socket
18mm socket
10 point socket (see to buy list)
Torque wrench
12mm socket
13mm socket
Drill bit (I will confirm the size)
Washers x2 (will conform the size)
Optional planks of wood

Firstly I will point out that this is a replica kit with some added parts.

The replica parts are abit rough round the edges but overall pretty good quality. I was unsure myself but after reading a lot of posts about the bushes being the main difference I thought sod it let‘s give them a go

Here‘s what you need to buy.....

Full kit from eBay. Colours available are red, blue, silver, gold, purple and black. £139.99 posted

***WARNING - you might be charged import tax on the kit, I didn‘t pay anything but I‘ve recently been told that someone has been charged import tax. His was delivered through a different courier than me so maybe that‘s why but please bare this in mind ***

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223586082168

Genuine skunk2 LCA bushes from Tegiwa £12.06 each set (you need 2 sets) plus £2.99 delivery

https://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/dc5/suspension/skunk2-lower-control-arm-rear-camber-kit-replacement-bushings.html

Or from H-tune for £10.99 each and £2.09 for first class postage

https://h-tune.co.uk/skunk2-lower-control-arm-rear-camber-kit-replacement-bushings/

Replacement ARB bolts as I found the ones that came with the kit are pretty poor quality £2.95 posted

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F362293650219


OPTIONAL

Tegiwa LCA socket. This eBay kit does come with a socket but I already ordered the Tegiwa one so I can‘t comment on the quality on the other but tegiwas was perfect. £10 plus £2.99 delivery

https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-chrome-vanadium-lower-control-arm-socket-honda-civic-ep3-fn2-integra-dc5-type-r.html

You could also order some new rear ARB bushes if you wanted to change them or upgrade them as you need to remove these anyway

So my full kit came to approx £180 delivered

The kit comes direct from China, there is no additional cost on delivery and it gets delivered by parcel force.

Once you have got all your parts, the first thing you need to do it swap out the crappy Chinese bushes for the genuine skunk2 ones

First you need to knock out the centre metal part of the bush



Then remove the bushes each side, I used a small flat blade screwdriver to get it started then just worked each edge until it was free



Now push in your new skunk2 bushes each side as far as you can at them




Now you need to hammer the pin back in, be careful not to damage the edge or the new bushes. Before putting this back in, check the bolt goes through the correct way



Once both sides are done it‘s time to get the car jacked up. Make sure you use some decent axle stands and make sure it‘s safe before you get underneath!!!



I started by removing the ARB bolts, these are a 12mm bolts. Take note on which way round the bracket goes for refitting. Remove the bracket and slide the rubber bush down the ARB out the way





Now pick a side to start from and remove the 3 bolts near to the wheel, you will need the 10 point socket for this



Once the 3 bolts are removed, the oem lca will hang down and you can remove the single bolt on the subframe holding it in. This is a 17mm. Once one side is down do the same process to the other side





Right now all the oem parts are removed let‘s get on and install the new parts. Start by getting the longest bolts (x2) the spacers (x2) and the ASR Subframe brace

I had a photo for all this but it won‘t upload :/

Anyway get the ASR brace in place and then while holding it grab a spacer and a bolt. The spacer goes behind the brace where the single long bolt came out so the 2 lowest point. Put the spacer in place and slide the bolt through and put it in a few turns. This is just to hold the brace in place with the spacers. Repeat with the other side

Now you should have the brace on the car with a spacer each side in place. You can now get the ARB back into place. Grab your new 4 bolts your ordered separate to the kit and a 13mm socket and fit the ARB.
Install the bottom bolt first half way in and then the top bolts, I tightened them down evenly until they were tight



(Note. This pic is with the bolts that came with the kit, one snapped when tightening it up and it took me ages to remove!!! Hence why I advise not using them)

Ok now onto the skunk2 LCA‘s

Get the correct side your doing with the new 3 bolts and the metal plate with the 3 holes in. You need your 10 point socket again

Remove the long bolt on the ASR brace, this should leave the spacer behind, it might drop down a little but it‘s easy to line back up

Now get the lower control arm roughly into place and fit the 3 bolts first. NOT THE SINGLE BOLT FIRST

I did these pretty much all the way up, I just had a few millimetres to go before the bolts touch the metal

You can either do this both sides or focus on one side first

Now you need to get your tie bar out and the drill. The holes in the tie bar arnt big enough for the bolt :/

I tighten the brackets down onto the tie bar so I had some where to hold while drilling. Drill out the holes big enough to fit the bolts through



Once both sides are done you need to remove the brackets from the tie bar.

Now get the brackets and the 2 washers and head back under the car. It‘s time to install the long bolts.

Get your long bolt, slide on the washer and the correct bracket for the side your working on. Now you need to push the lower arm up and out to line up the holes. I lay on my back under the LCA with the bolt pushed in with one hand and the other hand I used to push up and move around the LCA. This would be much better with 2 people but I‘m a lone rider

Do the bolts tight enough so the bracket can still move around but not too loose

Once both sides are done you can now get the lower tie bar in place. Put your bolts on the inner holes only




Now fit the tie bar and tighten up the 2 bolts



You will fit the outer bolts last

Now you can tighten up the 3 bolts each side, I did some googling and the torque setting for these is

93 ft lbs (126 Nm)

Once the 6 bolts are done just nip up the last long 18mm bolt left to do, don‘t tighten it up as you need to do this when the car is on the floor. I read about people torquing it up while it‘s in the air which can lead to the bush twisting when it‘s back on the floor

Once your happy all the bolts are tight except the 2 left to do then it‘s time to lower the car down. I put a plank of wood under each rear wheel so i still had room to get under the car



Right now it‘s time to torque the 18mm bolts. The torque setting for these are

43 ft lbs (58 Nm)

Once your happy then you can fit the last 2 remaining bolts on the lower tie bar

That‘s it your all done I went and took my car out for a drive and it is noticeably stiffer on the rear and now but I mainly did this for the looks not the performance side






I will go through this later and update the few things I‘ve missed




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C6MWX

Member
Messages
39
Great guide! Been looking at doing this myself and had noticed the massive price difference in parts also. If its just a case of swapping bushes it's well worth doing this way, any doubts in the quality of the LCA's? Reckon they'd be prone to snapping or cracking on potholes etc?

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skengdR

Advanced Member
Messages
342
Did mine yesterday with guidance from wocka and quite happy with it .



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skengdR

Advanced Member
Messages
342
NathanWebber said:
Fantastic write up. Ill be following this in a few weeks!
they dont call him the dc5 guru for no reason

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wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
C6MWX said:
Great guide! Been looking at doing this myself and had noticed the massive price difference in parts also. If its just a case of swapping bushes it's well worth doing this way, any doubts in the quality of the LCA's? Reckon they'd be prone to snapping or cracking on potholes etc?

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I did lots and lots of research and couldn‘t find any post with the reps snapping or cracking. I wouldn‘t recommend then for heavy use on track etc but I‘m quite happy with them

Also since fitting, the more I drive it the more I realise how much difference this setup has made!!! Super impressed with it


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wocka

Advanced Member
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1,088
NathanWebber said:
Fantastic write up. Ill be following this in a few weeks!
Sweet, post up on here how you get on


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Fez

Advanced Member
Messages
1,441
wocka said:
I did lots and lots of research and couldn‘t find any post with the reps snapping or cracking. I wouldn‘t recommend then for heavy use on track etc but I‘m quite happy with them

Also since fitting, the more I drive it the more I realise how much difference this setup has made!!! Super impressed with it


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They‘d be better on track than on the road. Tracks are much smoother.
A mate of mine had some reps on a civic and they snapped on a pot hole.

Personally i wouldn‘t risk them. Save ~£100 to potentially write your car off/kill someone if they were to snap and you end up crashing.
 

wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
Fez said:
They‘d be better on track than on the road. Tracks are much smoother.
A mate of mine had some reps on a civic and they snapped on a pot hole.

Personally i wouldn‘t risk them. Save ~£100 to potentially write your car off/kill someone if they were to snap and you end up crashing.
Ohhh bloody hell your joking!! I searched and searched and couldn‘t find anything. I even know people running reps and have done for years so I thought I would give them shot

Cars going off the road for winter soon so will give me chance to decide what to do


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Fez

Advanced Member
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1,441
wocka said:
Ohhh bloody hell your joking!! I searched and searched and couldn‘t find anything. I even know people running reps and have done for years so I thought I would give them shot

Cars going off the road for winter soon so will give me chance to decide what to do


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Found the photo




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skengdR

Advanced Member
Messages
342
I am sure that even the genuine ones are at risk of breaking / snapping.

I havent driven the car much since installing mine but I agree with Wocka , it has improved the handling and you can feel a difference in a positive way.

My mechanic friend who helped me with the install said that they look pretty good and I shouldnt worry.

I went with the replicas because I was struggling to find genuine ones in red . I think if you take care on the road you should be fine.

Still a good investment in my opinion and I can always swap out for genuine lcas down the line when I can find some red ones available .

When I get a chance I will take a photo and upload , just need the right angle

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big-pete

Advanced Member
Messages
112
its a block of metal at the end of the day! Skunk2 use a 6061 ali- this should be about the same in strength. :) great guide!
 

wocka

Advanced Member
Messages
1,088
The more people I speak to who are currently running reps are happy with them and haven‘t had any issues. Mine will be staying on for now as it won‘t be getting much use over the next 6 months but unless I find any evidence of the ep3/dc5 reps breaking I will be keeping them on

They look absolutely mega and less than half the price of the genuine setup.

Reps are everywhere. Wheels, intakes, strut braces, spoilers etc all could cause major issues if they failed and we still run them as they don‘t have the scene tax price tag, but it doesn‘t mean they are that much worse in quality


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big-pete

Advanced Member
Messages
112
only thing I can think would be an issue with breaking is the LCA- and if thats the case just buy genuine LCAs and get the ASR/Beaks bar from wherever- Ive got one of these kits here now and I can say that there is a tiny difference between the LCAs and Genuine S2 ones- but- they both seem strong enough.
 
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