ATC
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Strangely I couldn't find any how-to guides on the forum about removal and installation of a head unit (except for an ancient one with broken images) so I thought I'd do a quick write up. It's nothing complicated, but thought this might help someone else out.
Difficulty: 1.5/5
Time required: 1 hour
Tools required:
Step 1: Begin to pry the trim piece out containing the 12V socket with your choice of trim tool. There are two notches at the top on either side that are the best starting point. The top corners should pop out doing this, then work your way towards the middle until the top edge has popped off.
Step 2: Work your way down the edges, popping each of the clips out in turn. Prying next to the clip location is most effective for this. Once the first 6 clips are free, give it a careful tug and the whole piece should come off in your hands. (See below for clip location and prying order I used). I found this step was the hardest step of the whole process - so don't worry too much if this seems like a massive pain!
Step 3: Disconnect the 12V supply (this just pulls off) and set the trim piece aside. You can leave it connected, but it's likely to just get in the way further down the line.
Step 4: Look underneath the radio through the gap created by removing the trim piece. You should see two bolts - use an 8mm socket to remove these. Space is quite tight (especially if you have large hands like me) so this can be a little fiddly. I cracked them loose first, then unscrewed by hand to stop myself dropping them - that's not something I fancied doing.
Step 5: The headunit is now free, and only clipped in by the dash trim. Reach underneath and behind the cage/headunit and push forward on one side at a time to release the clips. If you can find the back of the headunit itself to push on, this seemed to be most effective. You'll have to be fairly firm, but a crazy amount of force isn't needed. I was able to get a grip on the little cubby-hole under the old unit at the same time, and simultaneously push and pull. I started with the right side, then worked my way across to the left:
Step 6: Once all clips are released, slowly slide the unit and cage forward. You need to release a few connections before it'll come all the way out, so don't go crazy yet. I recommend laying a cloth/towel over the trim under the radio to minimise the risk of any of the metal brackets scratching anything.
Step 7: Remove all electrical connections. I started with the hazard switch as this seemed to have the least slack. Squeeze the grey clip on the RHS while simultaneously pulling on the grey plug. A second pair of hands or a pry tool may be useful here. Next disconnect the antenna (this simply pulls out the back of the unit) and any other connections into your existing headunit - these will likely be held by a similar clip to the hazard switch - the whole assembly should then lift out.
Step 8: Take the assembly inside to work on with more space. Remove the two phillips head screws securing the hazard button - this should give you access to the screws holding the existing headunit to the cage.
Step 9: Remove the existing headunit - this is mostly likely held in by two screws on each side. The old unit should then slide out of the cage/trim. (I removed the cage from the dash trim here, but actually this isn't necessary)
Step 10: Install the new headunit to the cage - make sure everything is aligned centrally and parallel in the trim then tighten the bolts. There's usually several holes you can choose to use, so just find a pair which line up nicely. Once tightened down you can push in your trim piece - it should clip into place. I filed mine down on the back slightly to get a flusher fit to the existing trim.
Step 11: Get your wiring ready. The head unit probably comes with a universal ISO connector (two blocks of 8 pins). If you already have an after market headunit, the chances are you already have a plug and play connector waiting in the car. If not you'll need a harness adapter, that interfaces with the OEM radio connector (this is big and blue) - be sure to get this plugged in first. (ISO adapter shown below):
Step 12: Reinstall in the car as a reversal of removal. Be sure to connect the antenna as well as the main harness, and any microphone that you want with the headunit. I had a microphone pre-wired in the car, so I'm not going to attempt to describe installing this, as I have no experience. You can route any USB or AUX cables from the back of the unit round the back of the dash and into the glove box very easily - this is a handy way to keep the cables hidden and clean.
Overall a simple job, but I hope this guide will help someone further down the line.
Difficulty: 1.5/5
Time required: 1 hour
Tools required:
- Plastic trim removal tool (or thin screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape)
- 8mm socket
- Philips head screwdriver
- New head unit
- Universal Double din surround: Autoleads FP-021 is a good fit
- Iso harness adapter (if you've already got an aftermarket headunit, you've probably already got this). I believe the part number is CT20HD02 ISO harness adpater - someone please correct me if I'm wrong!
Step 1: Begin to pry the trim piece out containing the 12V socket with your choice of trim tool. There are two notches at the top on either side that are the best starting point. The top corners should pop out doing this, then work your way towards the middle until the top edge has popped off.
Step 2: Work your way down the edges, popping each of the clips out in turn. Prying next to the clip location is most effective for this. Once the first 6 clips are free, give it a careful tug and the whole piece should come off in your hands. (See below for clip location and prying order I used). I found this step was the hardest step of the whole process - so don't worry too much if this seems like a massive pain!
Step 3: Disconnect the 12V supply (this just pulls off) and set the trim piece aside. You can leave it connected, but it's likely to just get in the way further down the line.
Step 4: Look underneath the radio through the gap created by removing the trim piece. You should see two bolts - use an 8mm socket to remove these. Space is quite tight (especially if you have large hands like me) so this can be a little fiddly. I cracked them loose first, then unscrewed by hand to stop myself dropping them - that's not something I fancied doing.
Step 5: The headunit is now free, and only clipped in by the dash trim. Reach underneath and behind the cage/headunit and push forward on one side at a time to release the clips. If you can find the back of the headunit itself to push on, this seemed to be most effective. You'll have to be fairly firm, but a crazy amount of force isn't needed. I was able to get a grip on the little cubby-hole under the old unit at the same time, and simultaneously push and pull. I started with the right side, then worked my way across to the left:
Step 6: Once all clips are released, slowly slide the unit and cage forward. You need to release a few connections before it'll come all the way out, so don't go crazy yet. I recommend laying a cloth/towel over the trim under the radio to minimise the risk of any of the metal brackets scratching anything.
Step 7: Remove all electrical connections. I started with the hazard switch as this seemed to have the least slack. Squeeze the grey clip on the RHS while simultaneously pulling on the grey plug. A second pair of hands or a pry tool may be useful here. Next disconnect the antenna (this simply pulls out the back of the unit) and any other connections into your existing headunit - these will likely be held by a similar clip to the hazard switch - the whole assembly should then lift out.
Step 8: Take the assembly inside to work on with more space. Remove the two phillips head screws securing the hazard button - this should give you access to the screws holding the existing headunit to the cage.
Step 9: Remove the existing headunit - this is mostly likely held in by two screws on each side. The old unit should then slide out of the cage/trim. (I removed the cage from the dash trim here, but actually this isn't necessary)
Step 10: Install the new headunit to the cage - make sure everything is aligned centrally and parallel in the trim then tighten the bolts. There's usually several holes you can choose to use, so just find a pair which line up nicely. Once tightened down you can push in your trim piece - it should clip into place. I filed mine down on the back slightly to get a flusher fit to the existing trim.
Step 11: Get your wiring ready. The head unit probably comes with a universal ISO connector (two blocks of 8 pins). If you already have an after market headunit, the chances are you already have a plug and play connector waiting in the car. If not you'll need a harness adapter, that interfaces with the OEM radio connector (this is big and blue) - be sure to get this plugged in first. (ISO adapter shown below):
Step 12: Reinstall in the car as a reversal of removal. Be sure to connect the antenna as well as the main harness, and any microphone that you want with the headunit. I had a microphone pre-wired in the car, so I'm not going to attempt to describe installing this, as I have no experience. You can route any USB or AUX cables from the back of the unit round the back of the dash and into the glove box very easily - this is a handy way to keep the cables hidden and clean.
Overall a simple job, but I hope this guide will help someone further down the line.
