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Just thought I'd post this up for reference in case anyone needs to replace their wheel hub, outer CV or bearing. For info my driver's side driveshaft was seized into the hub, and wouldn't come out despite heat and a hammer, and even my 10 tonne press. Ended up getting it pressed out by a local engine skimming place as they have a 40 tonne press. Took 22 tonnes of pressure and a bit of oxyacetylene for it to go. I didn't realise at the time but the force of this caused the head of the outer CV to mushroom and the first set of threads to go. This happened even with the nut on.
When I reassembled everything, I tried to get away without replacing the wheel bearing. Something was off when putting stuff together as I had to hammer the hub back onto the outer CV joint, even with grease on the splines. When I drove it after it was obvious the wheel bearing was shot - turned out the oxy had boiled the grease out as I found some burned onto the outer CV face. Also found evidence of excess heat on the driveshaft spline that sits in the CV joint:
Replacement Part Numbers - DC5 Specific
Wheel Bearing - 44300-S47-008 - £137
Bearing Circlip - 90681-SG0-000 - £18
Hub - 44600-S87-A00 - £225
Outer CV Kit - 44014-S6M-950 OR 44014-S7A-951 - £310
(Prices are OEM Honda, taken from Lings)
Confirmed Alternatives
I didn't fancy spending near on £700 on parts for this, so sourced some alternatives...
Wheel Bearing - Tegiwa NTN Bearing - £38 - https://www.tegiwaimports.com/ntn-front-wheel-bearing-honda-civic-integra-type-r-ep3-dc5-01-06.html
Bearing Circlip - JapServiceParts - £8 - https://japserviceparts.co.uk/honda-genuine-wheel-bearing-circlip-84mm.html
Hub - The Mk2 CR-V shares the same hub as the DC5 (CR-V p/n - 44600-S47-000). I found Midlands4x4 on eBay selling a blueprint part for £55: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Hond...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 . Mapco part number 126501 is another alternative which also fits.
NOTE - EP3 hubs may fit but not 100% on this as the part number is different and not listed as compatible in the Mapco listing (44600-S1A-E40), but it appears to have been superseded by the DC5 part number so it may work.
Outer CV Kit - Tegiwa K-Series Outer CV Kit - £40 - https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-outer-cv-joint-k-series.html
Overall cost: £150 + change (including various delivery costs)
Things to note when changing...
Exploded Assembly View
When I reassembled everything, I tried to get away without replacing the wheel bearing. Something was off when putting stuff together as I had to hammer the hub back onto the outer CV joint, even with grease on the splines. When I drove it after it was obvious the wheel bearing was shot - turned out the oxy had boiled the grease out as I found some burned onto the outer CV face. Also found evidence of excess heat on the driveshaft spline that sits in the CV joint:
Replacement Part Numbers - DC5 Specific
Wheel Bearing - 44300-S47-008 - £137
Bearing Circlip - 90681-SG0-000 - £18
Hub - 44600-S87-A00 - £225
Outer CV Kit - 44014-S6M-950 OR 44014-S7A-951 - £310
(Prices are OEM Honda, taken from Lings)
Confirmed Alternatives
I didn't fancy spending near on £700 on parts for this, so sourced some alternatives...
Wheel Bearing - Tegiwa NTN Bearing - £38 - https://www.tegiwaimports.com/ntn-front-wheel-bearing-honda-civic-integra-type-r-ep3-dc5-01-06.html
Bearing Circlip - JapServiceParts - £8 - https://japserviceparts.co.uk/honda-genuine-wheel-bearing-circlip-84mm.html
Hub - The Mk2 CR-V shares the same hub as the DC5 (CR-V p/n - 44600-S47-000). I found Midlands4x4 on eBay selling a blueprint part for £55: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Hond...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 . Mapco part number 126501 is another alternative which also fits.
NOTE - EP3 hubs may fit but not 100% on this as the part number is different and not listed as compatible in the Mapco listing (44600-S1A-E40), but it appears to have been superseded by the DC5 part number so it may work.
Outer CV Kit - Tegiwa K-Series Outer CV Kit - £40 - https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-outer-cv-joint-k-series.html
Overall cost: £150 + change (including various delivery costs)
Things to note when changing...
- If you're going to install longer wheel studs, now is the time to do it!
- Workshop manual section detailing replacement - 18-10 -> 18-15
- Hub nut is 36mm, and might be properly tight. I borrowed by mate's Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact to buzz the nuts off (has a break-off torque of around 1200nm) as my Ryobi wasn't having it and my breaker bar felt like it was going to shear
- When pressing the wheel bearing in, make sure you use the old bearing to press it in (as stated in the workshop manual). The inner race on the side that the press-ram is against protrudes out from the outer race, which will either cause damage or cause the bearing to go in on the wonk
- Before pressing the hub back in, install your brake splash shield! Also consider replacing the phillips head bolts with normal hex head bolts so you can undo without removing the wheel hub. Size is M5x12
- When pressing the new hub into the bearing, press the knuckle assembly onto the hub (so the wheel studs are pointing down to the floor). If you don't, the inner race of the wheel bearing will separate. I did this because I wasn't paying attention, but then pressed it back together and sounds all fine so should be ok.
- Before knocking the outer CV off, make a mark on the driveshaft in-line with where the CV sits, so it goes back on in the same position
- On re-assembly, I've put copper-slip in the following locations to aid future disassembly:
- Outer CV splines
- Wheel hub splines
- Ball joint socket in the lower control arm
- Wheel hub face (that mates with the brake disc)
Exploded Assembly View
