I think i might get the car lowered in the future with Eibachs as that's what i used on my DC2 and have read that you also need to get adjustable rear arms and front bolts so you can adjust your geometry set up which is something that was not needed on my DC2 :? is this just a DC5 thing and does it mean that if i had coilovers i would have to have a geometry set up every time i changed the height? thanks for any help.
Lowering Springs, Coilovers and Geometry?
- Thread starter tara
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Dark Blue Mark
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I too am going for Eibach's on the stock dampers, from Tom at TGM.
I spoke to him a fair bit about the geometry adjusters, and not convinced they are needed.
I know given how we both drive they would be noticed but just not convinced yet. I think you have to be a track driver to get the benefit.
Not sure on adjustable coilovers...
I spoke to him a fair bit about the geometry adjusters, and not convinced they are needed.
I know given how we both drive they would be noticed but just not convinced yet. I think you have to be a track driver to get the benefit.
Not sure on adjustable coilovers...
conoroneill
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The camber changes as you adjust the height of the car. I have the Eibach pro kit springs fitted and there is visually noticable extra negative camber especially on the rear than there was on stock springs.
It looks like 2 maybe even 3 degrees negative camber, which is far too much to the point that my front end actually understeers as there is so much grip on the rear. A good camber setup is 1 to 1.5 DEG negative all round with 1mm toe in allignment on the rear and 1mm toe out on the front.
Most coilovers have adjustable mounts and therefore the camber can be adjusted on them.
It looks like 2 maybe even 3 degrees negative camber, which is far too much to the point that my front end actually understeers as there is so much grip on the rear. A good camber setup is 1 to 1.5 DEG negative all round with 1mm toe in allignment on the rear and 1mm toe out on the front.
Most coilovers have adjustable mounts and therefore the camber can be adjusted on them.
I'm guessing that most people slap the coilovers on, set them up and thats it never touch them again unless hitting the track.conoroneill said:
Putting the coilovers on would be a peice of cake but setting them up i guess would be the hardest/most important part?
celox performance
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Am I correct in saying that if you want less understeer you need to have less camber on the front than the rear? I was thinking about trying a 1 degree front and 2 degree rear.
so here is the stupid question to anyone thats fitted coilovers themselves.........
Fitting your coil overs. If the coil over height adjustment was at its botom point would this be about the same as standard ride height (lets say on a set of teins for instance) and thus would you adjust the ride height before fitting them?
So now they are on and you are on some level ground i guess you are gonna measure the ride height all around, at what points on the car would you do this and would there be a difference front to rear?
Could you just get away with the coil overs or really would you need to look at getting the camber adjusted for just a small height drop?
Like i said fitting them is gonna be a piece of cake but the set up process is important and new to me?
Fitting your coil overs. If the coil over height adjustment was at its botom point would this be about the same as standard ride height (lets say on a set of teins for instance) and thus would you adjust the ride height before fitting them?
So now they are on and you are on some level ground i guess you are gonna measure the ride height all around, at what points on the car would you do this and would there be a difference front to rear?
Could you just get away with the coil overs or really would you need to look at getting the camber adjusted for just a small height drop?
Like i said fitting them is gonna be a piece of cake but the set up process is important and new to me?
conoroneill
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If you want less understeer then you want about 1 degree negative all round. If the rear is too grippy (which mine is at the minute) the rear end will refuse to budge at all in a corner and therefore makes the front end harder to turn in. I'm not saying that the rear should slide about but there needs to be a little flexability to get the car turning in nice and agile.celox performance said:
Another downside of too much negative camber is it will make the car unstable and twitchy in straight lines and on gradual bends.
Optimum geomety setup is a trade-off between grip, agility, stability and tyre wear. There is a sweet spot that satisfies all these factors to an extent and is like the holy grail that people spend a ot of time and money persuing but as I have said before, 1 degree negative camber all round, 1mm toe out on the front and 1mm toe in on the rear is pretty close to it!
Andywilkinson
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Anyone know a ball park figure on how much the full set up will cost, including springs and adjusters etc?
Andywilkinson
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Is that all in, the full lot, springs and all???
Thats not a bad price
Thats not a bad price
Andywilkinson
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Brilliant, i may have to invest in that.
Cheers tara
Cheers tara
All cars when lowered, the camber and toe in/out will be affect, some more than others. You can just lower the DC5 and not do the geometry and it will handle dead on but if you can get a fast road setup done, the handling will be 10 times better. I have it done on my car and the difference it made was noticeable and definately worth it