Lemons
Advanced Member
- Messages
- 372
Was it a straight fit or do you have to reroute stuff?skengdR said:I went with the RRC , I think it gives better midrange / driveability.
I did read that article too before deciding what to go with.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
RRC has longer and wider runners than the RBC, better midrange and slightly more peak power24Lemons said:Does anyone know the difference between the Tegiwa 70mm RBC and the Tegiwa 70mm RRC?
I know the RRC is the externally bigger manifold, but 70mm is 70mm?
Straight fit more or less , just a tighter fit than the oem prc manifold .Mebz said:Was it a straight fit or do you have to reroute stuff?
RRC friendskengdR said:Straight fit more or less , just a tighter fit than the oem prc manifold .
Wocka has more or less answered all your questions , feel free to pm me and I can help you out if you need it.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Good to know. Not that I have any plans of removing the itb's.....skengdR said:Straight fit more or less , just a tighter fit than the oem prc manifold .
Wocka has more or less answered all your questions , feel free to pm me and I can help you out if you need it.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Also thinking of ITB‘s and vtec noise ..... I went from Skunk2 ultra to 64mm RRC and it sounds so much better, like ALOT better!!! So not only do manifolds vary in power differences, they all sound different tooMebz said:Good to know. Not that I have any plans of removing the itb's.....
I have read somewhere in the past that ITB's can be difficult to set up, and can result in running issues. Is this the case?wocka said:Also thinking of ITB‘s and vtec noise ..... I went from Skunk2 ultra to 64mm RRC and it sounds so much better, like ALOT better!!! So not only do manifolds vary in power differences, they all sound different too
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've heard the same.24Lemons said:I have read somewhere in the past that ITB's can be difficult to set up, and can result in running issues. Is this the case?
Do you know your attic and drive by db levels at all mate as I‘ve always wanted tb‘s but can‘t risk not being 100% track friendly :-(Mebz said:I've heard the same.
So far though, they have been great.
If the car has been sat doing nothing for a week or two, on first start up, idle revs fall low but after about 15 - 20 seconds it's fine. Driving around it's perfect.
Only other thing I notice is the fact that the accelerator pedal is a bit stiffer. I'm guessing this is down to the fact you've got 4 butterflies to move as opposed to one.
Been fitted by grinspeed and mapped by EFI parts, zero complaints, been spot on.
Was that limiter at high revs or limited by launch control (on k100 I worked out holding the clutch down you can bypass launch control to rev it for static test up to 6500 where they want it)Mebz said:Not sure of my drive by but static at croft it was 89db. That was with me hitting the limiter as well.
Launch control, I hate that term in the honda world, is it really launch control.... sorry rant over.carl hammond said:Was that limiter at high revs or limited by launch control (on k100 I worked out holding the clutch down you can bypass launch control to rev it for static test up to 6500 where they want it)
Same but that is what it‘s called on the map as it‘s the limiter in place to prevent over reving when launching unfortunately (same on all cars that have maps similar lol)Mebz said:Launch control, I hate that term in the honda world, is it really launch control.... sorry rant over.
My limiter is set at 5400
Tried what? Launching? I‘ve never done it and never will as no need lol. I only know about it as I had to override it for the static sound test at brandsskengdR said:Ive had a k100 or kpro since owning the car and never tried it , is it worth a try ?
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk