Supercharge, Turbo or NA?

Yambo

Advanced Member
Messages
511
Obviously there are several options for more BHP, Torque etc but can you answer the following:

How much BHP from Supercharge?
How much BHP From Turbo?
How much from the full works at NA, cams etc?

What is the likelihood of blowing up on each and how long would the engine last?

And what is the cost involved? :shock:

I know its a very open subject but I know everyone is interested!! :D
 

User

Advanced Member
Messages
523
I've done the exhaust, induction, engine mounts, K-Pro so next job is Toda cams and valve springs which are presently sitting in my garage.

Should be good for maybe 265bhp ish, reliable. Good thing with the N/A route is it's doesn't generate massive amounts of torque so there's no threat to the gearbox and less threat to the clutch too. Also there's no heat management to worry about - under bonnet temps etc.

Torque off SC and Turbo solutions is a problem imo, it's possibly too much for the gearbox (torque kills gearboxes not power), and also traction is a real issue.

I'll let you know once I get round to plonking my Toda cams in.
 

Wootty

Advanced Member
Messages
1,094
You can get a JRSC kit fited for between £3.5k to £4k - thats 6psi, 650 injectors, K-pro, hondata heat shield and mapped. There are other S/C makes that can also be fitted - its best to read up on the club rsx foums
http://forums.clubrsx.com/ for other makes.

As for why should you do it, value for money, Driveability - well theres probably a longer piece of string out there but I cant find it. Its all up to personal choice.

For your info here is my dyno with my specs as listed in the sig box. That's Wheel HP before you ask and I'm running reletively low boost at 6'ish psi.

From what I can gather from posts and applying a bit of a reality check to them:

At the Wheels
Std Teg - 175-180bhp
k-pro, mani and zorst - 205-210bhp
Cams + - ???
JRSC, Mani, kpro - 235-250bhp (depends on boost)
Cams + stroker kit ???
Turbo -280+bhp (truffs old motor??)

If owners of the above specs would like to fill in their before and afters then we could use it as a guide. I know each one varies depending on the car and more markedly where they get their dyno run done - but it is an indication. Dont flame me if you think they are wrong just post comments sensibly please - this is meant to be a discussion topic - but if you dont agree I'd expect to see some verified before and after dyno runs to back it up. :lol:

 

martin200

Advanced Member
Messages
231
User said:
I've done the exhaust, induction, engine mounts, K-Pro so next job is Toda cams and valve springs which are presently sitting in my garage.

Should be good for maybe 265bhp ish, reliable. Good thing with the N/A route is it's doesn't generate massive amounts of torque so there's no threat to the gearbox and less threat to the clutch too. Also there's no heat management to worry about - under bonnet temps etc.

Torque off SC and Turbo solutions is a problem imo, it's possibly too much for the gearbox (torque kills gearboxes not power), and also traction is a real issue.

I'll let you know once I get round to plonking my Toda cams in.
Bah ;)
 

martin200

Advanced Member
Messages
231
At the Wheels
Std Teg - 175-180bhp
k-pro, mani and zorst - 205-210bhp
Cams + - ???
JRSC, Mani, kpro - 235-250bhp (depends on boost)
Cams + stroker kit ???

Greddy 7psi Turbo Kit -240bhp @ wheels, 285bhp @ flywheel, 220lb/ft (iirc) (Greddy E-manage, FMIC, 440cc)

With regards to ( FI ) reliability, how longs a piece of string. If you do fast road driving, I'd imagine you'd get 25,000 miles out of your engine before it needs attention. If you do lots of track time, you'll be looking at stuffed engine sooner rather than later, so tune to 280bhp and 200lbft IMO.

Pictures for thought:

Build to be light and revvy, not take torque/high amounts of power:





Front



Back



Underside

 
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