Tanabe or spoon springs?

[matt b]

Which one are best for improving the turn in :?:

 

[T666YPR]

I'm in the process of getting some Tanabe Sustec Pro SS coilovers,but I think that the lower arm bars are more relative to turn in,reading from others posts.

 

[Dixcelbrake]

If you want a sharper respond from your car, you will need to increase the Neg Camber to around -1.75 and move the caster forward a little bit.

 

[matt b]

If you want a sharper respond from your car, you will need to increase the Neg Camber to around -1.75 and move the caster forward a little bit.

:roll: :roll: :lol: :lol: :?

Sorry Dixon but how do I do that mate? Me a bit thick

 

[corbie]

Dixon

what would recommend as an optimum setup instead of the standard setup of

Front caster angle: 1 degree 30 min +/- 1 degree
Front camber angle: 0 degree 0 min +/- 45 mins
Rear camber angle: -0 degree 45 min +/- 45 mins
Front toe-in: 0 +/- 3mm
Rear toe-in: 2 (+2)(1)mm
Turning angle: Inward: 35 degree 0 min
Outward: 28 degree 0 min (reference)
Front and rear wheel axial run-out: 0 - 0.7mm (service limit: 2.0mm)
Front and rear wheel radial run-out: 0 - 0.7mm (service limit: 1.5mm)

I was thinking of just increasing the Neg Camber to -1 all round.

 

[Dixcelbrake]

The Stock set up on the the Caster and Camber on the DC5 was aim for Road use with the Stock suspension.

If you had lowed down your car, you will need to get a Adjustable upper mount to adjust your Camber. Most of the Japanese brand will do like Tanabe/Cusco...etc...

Here is a guide of better setup for aftermarket suspension for Fast road/track

Camber:

Front: -1.0 to -1.5
Rear: -0.5 to -1.25

Caster:

Front: Left +2.0 Right +1.75
Rear: none

Toe:

Front: Toe in 0.5 to 1 degrees for stright line stability
Rear: Toe out 0.7 to 1 degrees for easiler turn in, but too much toe out will cause over steering. I got 2 on the back and its fun in the wet

Cheers,

Dixon

 

[corbie]

So for stock suspension you think its worth changing at all or just leaving it as?

As some compaines who do fast road setups useally just increase the neg camber to -1. So was thinking of going for that at a local garage.

 

[Sharpey]

Hi Corbie,

It may sound a bit heath robinson but I have done it for years on and off track and have had no movement problems.

If you elongate inwards the upper bolt hole on the front strut where the stub axle joins until the stub axle touches the strut it will give you 1.5 degrees of negative, the track will then have to be reset.
It makes a world of difference without affecting tyre wear to much and its free.

Chris

 

[corbie]

is there any downside to doing that ?

 

[Sharpey]

No, to go back to standard just slacken the bolts and pull it back to its original position you will have to get the track reset though.

You can also get adjusted bolts from Club RSX in the States
http://store.clubrsx.com/merchant.mv?Sc ... de=ARSXSCK

 

[dobber]

How much do the spoon springs lower the car front and rear?

 

[corbie]

The spoon springs drop the car by 25 mm from memory.

Do the Ingalls camber kits for the RSX type S work for the Type R?

I think I would rather get the kit for the sake of £70 than get the drill out

 

[Sharpey]

Yes the Ingalls camber kits fit OK.
Incidentally some manufacturers (Volkswagen being one) elongate the upper bolt hole as standard to give some camber adjustment on some modles.

 

[corbie]

Thanks Chris
Will speak to the guy who does it and see which one he recommends. He knows a fair bit from using him in the past

if he's says drill then I will otherwise I will just order the kit

 

[Sharpey]

Hi Corbie,

Don't drill the top holes in the strut bigger you have to elongate them towards the strut, I used a large round file, there is also a lump at the back of the cast stub axle which can be ground off to give a little more movement.

Chris