Wheel spacers

Hussainy786

Advanced Member
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151
Has anyone got a picture with 20mm spacers all round on stock wheels ? I can‘t decide on wether to get 15mm or 20mm.

Thanks


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wocka

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1,088
All depends on your suspension and tyre setup, too low with no negative camber and 15mm might catch

I‘m on 15mm all round now, just swapped to 225 tyres and I have -1.5 camber on the back. There‘s no chance I could run 20mm on the back without catching but I am about to swap to 20mm up front

But saying all this I know of another member running 25mm all round with no reported problems




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Hussainy786

Advanced Member
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151
I will be running 225/45r17 RE070s and coilovers suspension. Just don‘t want the tyre sticking out the arch lip.


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wocka

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1,088
Hussainy786 said:
I will be running 225/45r17 RE070s and coilovers suspension. Just don‘t want the tyre sticking out the arch lip.


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Well that‘s my exact tyre on coilovers with 15mm spaces and -1.5 camber all round. Hope it helps you out :)


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Crackfox

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622
I had 20mm on for an hour, then swapped the for 15mm due to rubbing.

Depending on your driving regime I as also beleive wider will cause more stone chips on the sides of the car.

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Hussainy786

Advanced Member
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151
Crackfox said:
I had 20mm on for an hour, then swapped the for 15mm due to rubbing.

Depending on your driving regime I as also beleive wider will cause more stone chips on the sides of the car.

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Did the 20mm look better compared to 15mm? My arches will be rolled in so it should b okay on the rubbing.


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Hussainy786

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151
Also does it matter on what make they are ? There‘s different prices on eBay and makes.


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wocka

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1,088
Hussainy786 said:
Also does it matter on what make they are ? There‘s different prices on eBay and makes.


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Don‘t buy cheap, these things hold your wheels on

Here‘s the link to the Tegiwa ones

https://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/dc5/wheels/tegiwa-hubcentric-wheel-spacers-15mm-20mm-honda-4x100-5x114.html

I have MJC automotive ones but you need to swap to Honda CRV wheel nuts as they are 5mm longer

https://mjcautomotive.com/mjc-automotive-15mm-spacers-ep3-fn2.html

Eibach are also another popular brand to use


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Hussainy786

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151
Thanks mate. Will I need to change my wheel but regardless which ones I buy ?


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wocka

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1,088
Hussainy786 said:
Thanks mate. Will I need to change my wheel but regardless which ones I buy ?


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With the Tegiwa ones you can use the oem wheel nuts, MJC studs are slightly longer for some reason which I didn‘t know when I first hit them


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carl hammond

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3,737
wocka said:
With the Tegiwa ones you can use the oem wheel nuts, MJC studs are slightly longer for some reason which I didn‘t know when I first hit them


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Hi mate do you know, say for instance I run a set of 15mm spacers on my oem wheels (what‘s that do to the et)

Basically my geo and setups all track focussed and ideally I want some 17/7.5 or 17/8 wide wheels for track to run 235/225 staggered setup soon but cannot workout what wheels would work without rolled arches.

I was thinking maybe get some spaces and see if they fit without rubbing and go from there as cheaper than buying wheels.

Other options wait until this is all over and hope someone‘s nice enough to let me test fit some wheels...

My geo is
Drivers Front = -3.5 degrees camber
Passengers Front = -3.5 degrees camber
Drivers Rear = -3.2 degrees camber
Passengers Rear = -3.2 degrees camber

Rear camber on track will be slightly less as that was with full fuel and spare wheel etc
 

wocka

Advanced Member
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1,088
carl hammond said:
Hi mate do you know, say for instance I run a set of 15mm spacers on my oem wheels (what‘s that do to the et)

Basically my geo and setups all track focussed and ideally I want some 17/7.5 or 17/8 wide wheels for track to run 235/225 staggered setup soon but cannot workout what wheels would work without rolled arches.

I was thinking maybe get some spaces and see if they fit without rubbing and go from there as cheaper than buying wheels.

Other options wait until this is all over and hope someone‘s nice enough to let me test fit some wheels...

My geo is
Drivers Front = -3.5 degrees camber
Passengers Front = -3.5 degrees camber
Drivers Rear = -3.2 degrees camber
Passengers Rear = -3.2 degrees camber

Rear camber on track will be slightly less as that was with full fuel and spare wheel etc
So oem wheels are ET60, that‘s measured in mm so if you add 15mm spacers it changes the ET to ET45 but with your camber you can prob run a ET40 to be honest


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carl hammond

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3,737
wocka said:
So oem wheels are ET60, that‘s measured in mm so if you add 15mm spacers it changes the ET to ET45 but with your camber you can prob run a ET40 to be honest


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Ok cool cheers, so if I get some 15mm ones I will get an idea I‘d they will rub or not, I want to try that as they I can go slightly wider :)

Thanks
 

wocka

Advanced Member
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1,088
carl hammond said:
Ok cool cheers, so if I get some 15mm ones I will get an idea I‘d they will rub or not, I want to try that as they I can go slightly wider :)

Thanks
Yep exactly that mate. Saw some H&R ones are the dc1 dc2 and dc5 selling page on Facebook


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rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
bit of thread resurrection I know - will spacers improve handling on track? Or not worth the effort? Apart from Carl’s desire for wider/different wheels
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,737
bit of thread resurrection I know - will spacers improve handling on track? Or not worth the effort? Apart from Carl’s desire for wider/different wheels
I opted against them, mine were never going to be for track but solely to see what the diff would be if I knew what et it’d give so I could use them to test how wider wheels would impact the cars stance and clearance as my goal was to look for a slightly wider front tyre for track.

I’ve not bothered with spacers and so stayed with oem wheels on a 225/45/17 wide square setup for road and track
 

JustinEET

Advanced Member
Messages
108
bit of thread resurrection I know - will spacers improve handling on track? Or not worth the effort? Apart from Carl’s desire for wider/different wheels
As with everything there are gonna be disadvantages and advantages. Using spacers will change your wheel rate(because you have changed your track width), and scrub radius. Let's talk about wheel rate.
Just like spring rate; increasing wheel rate will increase roll stiffness. With spacers this will be resistance to side to side body roll, and not rolling due to acceleration or braking(increasing wheel base does this). This will keep the car chassis complacent, which equates to better handling as long as you aren't overloading tires, but increasing the track width not only increases wheel rate it also increases the radius within a corner. This is seen via the Ackerman principal aka Ackerman steering. So that means the outside wheel has to travel more distance so your car isn't as maneuverable as a car with a smaller track. In easier terms; I rather have a car with a smaller track in AutoCross/Mountain pass scenario. And a wider track width on most race tracks.

Now let's talk about scrub radius. So by increasing the hub length you are changing the distance of where the center line of the wheel is. So this changes the placement of your KAI (Steering Axis Inclination) in reference to that center line. Which depending if you have a positive scrub radius or negative scrub radius; this can get you closer or further away from the center line of the wheel. Since we use Macpherson you are most likely negative scrub radius and you will move your scrub radius closer to zero(but do try to still maintain a little negative scrub radius). I think having the steering axis closer to the outside of the wheel helps eliminate torque steer or unwanted steering under heavy braking.

Well that's my knowledge on this topic. Hope it helps.
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
As with everything there are gonna be disadvantages and advantages. Using spacers will change your wheel rate(because you have changed your track width), and scrub radius. Let's talk about wheel rate.
Just like spring rate; increasing wheel rate will increase roll stiffness. With spacers this will be resistance to side to side body roll, and not rolling due to acceleration or braking(increasing wheel base does this). This will keep the car chassis complacent, which equates to better handling as long as you aren't overloading tires, but increasing the track width not only increases wheel rate it also increases the radius within a corner. This is seen via the Ackerman principal aka Ackerman steering. So that means the outside wheel has to travel more distance so your car isn't as maneuverable as a car with a smaller track. In easier terms; I rather have a car with a smaller track in AutoCross/Mountain pass scenario. And a wider track width on most race tracks.

Now let's talk about scrub radius. So by increasing the hub length you are changing the distance of where the center line of the wheel is. So this changes the placement of your KAI (Steering Axis Inclination) in reference to that center line. Which depending if you have a positive scrub radius or negative scrub radius; this can get you closer or further away from the center line of the wheel. Since we use Macpherson you are most likely negative scrub radius and you will move your scrub radius closer to zero(but do try to still maintain a little negative scrub radius). I think having the steering axis closer to the outside of the wheel helps eliminate torque steer or unwanted steering under heavy braking.

Well that's my knowledge on this topic. Hope it helps.
thanks for the detailed reply :) I probably need to look to more obvious stuff first like some decent coil overs instead of just spoon springs!
 
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