ABS Light - Diagnostics

[Filkmeister]

Afternoon all,

Anyone any experience of interpreting the "blink" test on the ABS?

Possibly unrelated, but my motor won't run at the moment (fires a bit, but won't catch and run!) even from a jump start, new battery and plugs :-( Behaves bit like it is flooding, as in days of yore when cars had manual chokes!!!

Have no EML illuminated and the fuel pump primes and there is a good spark...

Decided to see if it might help by completing the OBD blink test, just in case there is something I am overlooking - Link sockets connected, all lamps illuminate as per normal when turn the ignition on EML illuminates with all the others - oil pressure etc, however the ABS lamp flashes. It is not as easy to interpret as it looks though! I think there is one long blink followed by six short blinks.

I'd be most grateful if a fellow forum member knows where these ABS fault codes are for DC5. Car is of 2002 vintage. Maybe completely unrelated, but are there any faults recorded by the ABS system that could contribute to the non-starting headache?

Thanks in advance!

Tip for anyone planning this it is easy to do, but suggest use a paperclip the link pin sockets are tiny!

 

[Benneh]

Have a look through this thread and keep it bookmarked, I've found it useful in the past.
http://honda-tech.com/acura-integra-6/ecu-abs-codes-here-978933/

Might be worth getting yourself a little Bluetooth ELM327 code reader from eBay or Amazon and checking the codes through that. Usually cost around £10

 

[Filkmeister]

Thank you very much - that is a great resource.

Looks like ABS lamp is not related to starting problem.

On that, I just checked battery voltage 12.2 stuck on the charger and it came up partially discharged. Odd as I only picked up new from dealer last week. Seems the point about the battery being marginal if you have to crank it a few times is a serious one.

Thanks again.

 

[C&S Evo7]

it should be able to start on 12.2 v.

does the car have an aftermarket alarm ? i have seen a few immobiliser units fail , (its where my money would be ) find cut points, and bypass to test,

an ABS fault wont stop the car from starting,

Its very unlikely to be a crank sensor, cam sensor etc, they are generally VERY reliable, ive not ever heard of one failing ,

in my experience, the reasons for them not starting are always caused by something non std, ie, alarm, wire tuck, incorrectly fitted stereos and ecu's

 

[C&S Evo7]

also , where do you live ? if you are close ill come and have a look at it .

seems odd if it will fire and die,

 

[Filkmeister]

Thank you for thoughts. The alarm-immobiliser is a Laserline and having traced most of the wiring, I'd have to say to that the installation was pretty good and it behaves as per usual. I was able to trace a copy of the users manual on their website which was most helpful and a tip for anyone else suspecting an issue there.

Been back through it this morning - battery now fully charged. Had plugs back out and jumped off another motor. Cranks vigorously, but only intermittent firing...

Back in for a cuppa - I thought I'll just try again on its own and she fired up, symptoms like flooding so cranked it on full throttle and after a couple of tries it fired and ran at a steady 2000 rpm. It has sat for a while now and one thing that was hairy was the amount of steam! Rather like HGF but it soon settled down and the oil and coolant are fine. So I don't know what that was all about, condensation in the exhaust?

However, after a few minutes it started hunting around.revving up to 2000rpm and dipping to 1000rpm in a very controlled and repetitive non-stop cycle. I haven't yet read the fault codes, but that is surely a problem with the idle control? It started from warm immediately as always has previously. Yet to try from cold.

Will report back as this problem is one that I had all but given up on. I was frankly amazed when it eventually started and ticked over just like any normal K20 after a dozen no-start attempts.

Thanks again.

 

[C&S Evo7]

iacv is pretty normal to stick after a bit of non use, i really wouldnt worry about it,

im sure you will have disturbed a dry joint on the alarm wiring hence why its running now.

 

[Filkmeister]

You know you could well be right - I think that the bonnet switching wiring may have been at fault.

Otherwise I am rather stumped. Whilst I have the motivation to sort it(!) I have had the IACV off which was not rotating at all smoothly and "gummed" up. Big difference to action now cleaned, will report back on success. Have an exhaust question now too!!! Will try and post that in right spot

Thanks.

 

[C&S Evo7]

No worries , bonnet switch is common due to corrosion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk