Anti Roll Bars

Bonito

Advanced Member
Messages
548
Thicker ARB's are not a waste of money on a road car IMO. The reason TGM can leave the OEM Honda ARB's in place in their race cars is because they're race cars. With all that weight stripped out, they have no need for thicker bars to counter body roll as there'd be a lot less body roll in a stripped out race car. Aswell as that their cars have cages which will only add to the rigid feel of the cars
 

paul hughes

Member
Messages
1,007
cars with std suspension will benefit from a stiffer ARB so worth the money for road use, but cars with coil over suspension and stiffer springs will not get roll anyway. so waste of money. we use STD on our race cars, and even disconnect at times to introduce a bit of roll.
 

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
Messages
5,224
I'm in the process of doing some research on improving the chassis and handling.

Can I ask - If I was going to get a FRSU on the car as it currently is (Coilovers and strut braces only, no camber adjusters). Would it be ok to install thicker front and rear ARB's after the geometry has been set up or will this affect the gemotery and handling again after an FRSU has been done? Or am I better purchasing everything and then getting a FRSU?

Thanks.
 

Bonito

Advanced Member
Messages
548
Leave front OEM in. Rear camber arms an rear ARB. Standard Droplinks. Bliss for a FRSU IMO.
 

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
Messages
5,224
Bonito said:
Leave front OEM in. Rear camber arms an rear ARB. Standard Droplinks. Bliss for a FRSU IMO.
Cheers mate! Just the advice I was after thank you. Gives me an idea of what I need to get now in the future to get it sorted.

That and some better brakes ha ha!
 

Linus27

Advanced Member
Messages
753
Dan34 said:
Yep had front and rear cusco's on for quite a while now :)
How do you find them? As good as everyone has been saying or not much difference?
 

maxvr6

Advanced Member
Messages
1,907
Interested to know this too Dan, IIRC you have Meister coilovers? So the effect wouldn't be as much as if you were running standard or just uprated springs, did you install them after the coilovers and if so how did you find the change, did you revise the geo at the same time?

I have a rear Progress ARB here waiting to go on which I'm going to fit either way but would still be good to know your opinion, just need the rest of my suspension parts to arrive ;)
 

Dan34

Advanced Member
Messages
1,176
Yeah they have made a difference, but as I have coilovers probably not enough difference to warrant the money I spent on them!

If you can get some at a good price, go for it! At least the rear is worth doing.
 

C&S Evo7

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
8,229
Bonito said:
Thicker ARB's are not a waste of money on a road car IMO. The reason TGM can leave the OEM Honda ARB's in place in their race cars is because they're race cars. With all that weight stripped out, they have no need for thicker bars to counter body roll as there'd be a lot less body roll in a stripped out race car. Aswell as that their cars have cages which will only add to the rigid feel of the cars
actually they arnt much lighter than road cars due to all the extra strengthening, cage etc, they are of course stiffer but again, the dc5 is stiff to start with and that doesnt affect the need for an aftermarket arb, , also the TGM cars are used for endurance racing, so being superlight doesnt help they need to be solid to last the distance,

unless you could half the bodyweight you will still get considerable roll, but as Paul rightly says once you have a stiffer spring the roll is reduced antway, hence why Tom says its pointless, and i would have to agree with that, even on a std dc5 i wouldnt bother as i dont believe there would be any gain, the chassis is already well sorted from the factory, go and drive an astra vxr and you wont be worried about arb's on a teg.
 
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