Any non-serious/expensive ways to increase BHP?

Crazylegs

Advanced Member
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5,224
mike.williams said:
if i could do it all again it would a be a 5.1fd, aem cold air intake (by the bumper) and a catback exhaust for a slight gain but mostly noise

i wouldnt spend money on ecu or exhaust manifold again, i would put it into the chassis instead
Why is the 5.1 final drive so good? Is this the setup that MFactory do?

I watched a clip of a supercharged DC5 the other night and it seems a bit too brutal for me, I would have thought the power delivery would have been a lot smoother and more linear so it's kind of put me off going down that route if I ever do.

Would need to go out in one really to see what they're like?
 

mike.williams

Advanced Member
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2,214
Crazylegs said:
Why is the 5.1 final drive so good? Is this the setup that MFactory do?

I watched a clip of a supercharged DC5 the other night and it seems a bit too brutal for me, I would have thought the power delivery would have been a lot smoother and more linear so it's kind of put me off going down that route if I ever do.

Would need to go out in one really to see what they're like?
mfactory or a final drive out of a honda CRV gearbox for oem.

the final drive will help the car pull through the gears easier by shortening the overall gearing. i think its explained alot better on the mfactory website
 

integraleo

Advanced Member
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1,873
The 5.1 is so good because it's like a power increase without actually adding power. I've heard it's the equivalent of 20/25hp difference in acceleration. The difference in fuel consumption is negligible,it keeps the car in the power band for the loss of some top speed that the car is unlikely to ever hit anyway.
From memory the standard gearing is capable of around 163mph where as with 5.1 it lowers it by around 10mph.
Definitely a mod I want on my car.
 

beppe786

Beppe
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2,062
How can you find out you have a 5.1 ?

Normal 60mph 6th gear is 3000rpm

What would it be with 5.1
 

Crazylegs

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5,224
Thanks for the responses guys, makes perfect sense that and sounds like a very good modification to have. Would love a straight cut whining box in the Teg though!!
 

cameroon95

Advanced Member
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294
There are other options than kpro, I was quoted £575 for fitting and mapping of a unichip and vtec controller from wallace perfromance in aberdeen.

Get that along with a RBC manifold(say 250 worst case and if you need someone to fit it another 200) and it doesn't cost as much.

Baring in mind that this is when you already have a full exhaust system(as many of these cars seem to already), gains have been seen on this forums of around the 250bhp mark(I've searched because I'm interested in getting mine done).
 

beppe786

Beppe
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2,062
molten-ice said:
A k100 is only £350 from TDI north, then obviously mapping ontop of that ....



This air box mod is ment to free up 2-4BHP ..... and its free!

http://www.hondata.com/techkseriesairboxmod.html



This will let you work out what a 5.1 FD will do to your gear speeds vs RPM

http://www.teammfactory.com/gear-calculator
going by that calulator normal dc5 in 6th at 3000rpm would be doing 65mph if you have a 5.1 final drive then would be doing 60mph

mine does 60mph could i have a final 5.1 drive.. my gearbox has been opened up and rebuilt by the previous owner
 

Topgeezer

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1,114
beppe786 said:
going by that calulator normal dc5 in 6th at 3000rpm would be doing 65mph if you have a 5.1 final drive then would be doing 60mph

mine does 60mph could i have a final 5.1 drive.. my gearbox has been opened up and rebuilt by the previous owner
The speedo over reads usually, try comparing with the mph read out on a sat nav, they are more accurate.

T.G.
 

paul hughes

Member
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1,007
The approach we use is to spend all your money on the chassis first, then when thats sorted spend money inside the engine.
because the best value for money isnt 600bhp off the bat. that has been proven time and time again on circuits and Time Attack, BHP does not make you win races or have a spiffing time scratching around the local country lanes.
so the best advice is to keep the car out of the ditches. then think about going inside the engine after the £8k stage....

we still think NA and good chassis rules the waves.... and until now no one has proved us wrong car for car. (1/4 mile not included)
 

wj51fut

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3,817
paul hughes said:
The approach we use is to spend all your money on the chassis first, then when thats sorted spend money inside the engine.
because the best value for money isnt 600bhp off the bat. that has been proven time and time again on circuits and Time Attack, BHP does not make you win races or have a spiffing time scratching around the local country lanes.
so the best advice is to keep the car out of the ditches. then think about going inside the engine after the £8k stage....

we still think NA and good chassis rules the waves.... and until now no one has proved us wrong car for car. (1/4 mile not included)
Couldn't agree more with you Paul.

Although I have been looking into getting a 5.1 final drive because I won't be doing so many motorway miles anymore. It's a cheap(ish) mod to do and you get the effect of more power and torque. Thumbs up in my book.
 

paul hughes

Member
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1,007
Gok (aka Chinese Adam) said:
Couldn't agree more with you Paul.

Although I have been looking into getting a 5.1 final drive because I won't be doing so many motorway miles anymore. It's a cheap(ish) mod to do and you get the effect of more power and torque. Thumbs up in my book.
5.01 FD is OK but only on long circuits where you go right through the box 2nd to 6th for half a mile or more (1st will be useless), like Snett or Silverstone. but other short circuits it is slower than a std 4.76, because you run out of revs 50 yards before the corner and cant change up. where as 4.76 hold the gears longer. so any more than 2 gear changes between corners 5.01 will be marginally quicker. 3 changes and its over half a second quicker. 4 changes and its a second quicker per straight.
The other secret to 5.01 is using our long second gear. otherwise you will scrap 1st and 2nd as they will be too low.
 

Crazylegs

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5,224
What modifications do you suggest doing to the chassis then Paul if you don't mind me asking?

I've mentioned previously that my Teg feels a bit wobbly and the handling isn't as good as I was expecting partly down to the fact that it has very poor tyres on it which probably isn't helping. Mine has Tein Monoflex coilovers and 3 strut braces, would you suggest upgrading things like the anti roll bars both front and rear as well as getting rear camber adjusters and a good fast road/track geometry set up?
 

integraleo

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1,873
Tyres make a MASSIVE difference on a dc5,more so than any other car I've driven.
When I first bought mine I came from a dc2 on average to good tyres and on the drive home I thought what have I done!! It was so much worse than the dc2 on grip.
The tyres on my dc5 were falken 912s with half tread on all four corners,the car slid at low speeds on round a bouts and understeered like a pig. Within a week I bought new tyres and it transformed the car to something similar to my old dc2.
When it comes to handling I've been very fussy with my cars in the past, preferring a car that handles well rather than goes like a rocket in a straight line. ( the reason im on my 5th type r )
Now I truely believe unless you intend to regularly track the car a descent set of tyres and eibach lowering springs and slight camber tweak is more than enough on these cars to make them handle better than 95% of other cars on the road. If you really want to spend thousands on suspension go right ahead but as I stated unless your tracking the car at what speeds mid corner will you gain the benefits of that suspension compared with the benefits of an earlier vtec point with an extra 20bhp on the engine.
Im not doubting that on track handling will increase your lap times more than a little extra power but I dont know about you but my car spends more time on the road than on track. The people on this forum that race these cars have lap times at the top of their required list.....I don't.
 

Crazylegs

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5,224
integraleo said:
Tyres make a MASSIVE difference on a dc5,more so than any other car I've driven.
When I first bought mine I came from a dc2 on average to good tyres and on the drive home I thought what have I done!! It was so much worse than the dc2 on grip.
The tyres on my dc5 were falken 912s with half tread on all four corners,the car slid at low speeds on round a bouts and understeered like a pig. Within a week I bought new tyres and it transformed the car to something similar to my old dc2.
When it comes to handling I've been very fussy with my cars in the past, preferring a car that handles well rather than goes like a rocket in a straight line. ( the reason im on my 5th type r )
Now I truely believe unless you intend to regularly track the car a descent set of tyres and eibach lowering springs and slight camber tweak is more than enough on these cars to make them handle better than 95% of other cars on the road. If you really want to spend thousands on suspension go right ahead but as I stated unless your tracking the car at what speeds mid corner will you gain the benefits of that suspension compared with the benefits of an earlier vtec point with an extra 20bhp on the engine.
Im not doubting that on track handling will increase your lap times more than a little extra power but I dont know about you but my car spends more time on the road than on track. The people on this forum that race these cars have lap times at the top of their required list.....I don't.
Thanks for the reply mate.

Yes I can't wait to sack these tyres off they're awful. I should be able to afford two RE070's once I get paid but I may wait another month and get the AD08's instead as they seem a better tyre and it's not something I want to scrimp on. The ones I have are on are seriously ruining my drive, it's not inspiring me with any confidence and in the wet they're quite frightening.

As for handling. I've been reading up on what to do improvements wise, some people swear by thicker ARB's but there are many who don't. Some say it's a bit overkill on these cars and just a few suspension tweaks and a decent geometry set up is more than enough and the standard ARB's are fine as they are. As I have coilovers on already I will likely purchase some adjustable camber arms for the fronts and rears and get that set up done, should improve the handling a lot once that's done. The Tein's are an expensive decent coilover anyway so I don't need to do anything on that front I guess, maybe adjust them here and there.

I live near to TDI North so I'll take it to them at some point and get them to set it all up correctly for me. I don't plan on doing any trackdays as they're too costly although it is something I'd like to do eventually but it's a road car not a track car.

Cheers.
 

integraleo

Advanced Member
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1,873
I now run the Goodyear eagle f1 as2s and for a road tyre they are excellent. Very good grip in the wet and dry,good wear rate and quiet and good price,can't go wrong. On the road I really dont think you will notice that much difference between the Goodyears the re070s or the ad08s as they are all top notch tyres. I agree tyres are not an area to scrimp but any of those 3 and you will be happy mate.
 
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