Anyone tried this IACV?

[hondamad2204]

Hi all, recently my car has started to slip back into its old rev hunting ways just 3 weeks or so since cleaning it. Done it a couple of times now, and all have been a success but now its getting stupid. I'm even contemplating getting a whole new TB from hond with all new sensors to eliminate the issue.... but then stumbled across this part number......

looking up about it I can find no conformation that this part number will fit our K20A TB.... looks identical but just don't want to risk buying it if its not going to fit.

yet to try Steels, thought I would ask here first if anyone has had any experience.

James

CORRECT PART NUMBER FOR THE TYPE R IS : 16022-PRC-003

 

[coyote_dc5]

If you've got K100 or Kpro then you can get it disabled and blanked off and idle set in the map. This is what I have now

 

[hondamad2204]

Sounds bliss, but unfortunately Dan I'm all completely standard. Even original manifold. I have checked for all the usual air leaks etc..., nothing. Everything is spinning free, still doing it. Its fine after a full throttle blip and 15 mins of driving, but it shouldn't be like that.

My thoughts are also a possible TPS maybe, as that's the original one still, but you can't buy an OEM replacement, so I don't want to change to one of them, after reading up about a few reliability issues associated with them.

But I then saw this IACV and though hmmmm.

 

[integraleo]

Had my old iacv cleaned every few months for couple years as it kept on gunking up to the point I bought a new one from honda for £250!! Changed my intake at same time from injen to the teg m....that was over a year ago and no rev hunting issue since ( touch wood)

 

[hondamad2204]

Yeah, I think its a bit similar to the common headlight issue,....there is only so much cleaning you can do to it...replacement is the only option. lol

But to be fair, £250 for trouble free traffic jams, cold starts, and with me using it everyday seems pretty good to me. I have just emailed Dave Jonson at Steels, so will wait and see how much he quotes, but this will probably be my next big purchase after my hols when I have acquired a few more tokens.

Was that with all the sensors too mate?

 

[wj51fut]

Let me take a look before you spend £££. Second pair of eyes is always good. 👍

 

[Rom]

If you've got K100 or Kpro then you can get it disabled and blanked off and idle set in the map. This is what I have now

Tell me more

 

[coyote_dc5]

If you take the iacv off you can place tape over the inlet so it doesn't allow air through it anymore and then bolt it back on. Then in Kpro you disable the iacv and then on the throttle body return screw you wind this out so the revs climb enough to hold an idle. Paul did stuff in map too but not sure what but from what I saw this was the process. I have mine at 1,800rpm now so it can accommodate engine loads like lights, power steering and AC without stalling

 

[Lukeyboi89]

im sure i read a thread on here that deleting the IACV with kpro isnt ideal in the long term though.... cant remember where i saw it!

will have a look.......

 

[hondamad2204]

Had my old iacv cleaned every few months for couple years as it kept on gunking up to the point I bought a new one from honda for £250!! Changed my intake at same time from injen to the teg m....that was over a year ago and no rev hunting issue since ( touch wood)

Just to clarify you changed the IACV only mate? not the whole TB?

Many thanks

 

[integraleo]

Yes just the iacv

 

[hondamad2204]

Thanks for the clarification mate.

Adam, you are more than welcome too mate. But im saving for a new IACV anyway I think, drove my dads today and its bliss and the quote for that was responsible to be honest. Im going to also check the TPS sensor too with my meter to prove that and hopefully eliminate that from the equation.

Had a quotation from steels for a new complete unit..... lets just say id rather get the same amount of work done as you have just had to your gearbox than buy a new complete TB. Haha so thats not an option.

 

[Rom]

If you take the iacv off you can place tape over the inlet so it doesn't allow air through it anymore and then bolt it back on. Then in Kpro you disable the iacv and then on the throttle body return screw you wind this out so the revs climb enough to hold an idle. Paul did stuff in map too but not sure what but from what I saw this was the process. I have mine at 1,800rpm now so it can accommodate engine loads like lights, power steering and AC without stalling

Thanks.

So your saying your idle is now set to a permanent 1800?!

 

[coyote_dc5]

Yes correct unless I use steering, brake lights, rear heaters, head lights, AC etc so it will vary between 1,800 being worse case and 900 or so fully loaded up

 

[Tegiwa Imports]

We can do the genuine Honda - 16022-PRC-003 (correct part number for DC5) for £230 delivered

Thanks

 

[hondamad2204]

We can do the genuine Honda - 16022-PRC-003 (correct part number for DC5) for £230 delivered

Thanks

Was just going to update this with the correct part number. Thanks

And at that price, its already a fair bit cheaper than the quote I received from Steels Honda. xthumbup

Plus the forum discount on top of yours Tegiwa,.......you may have a sale in the near future. Many thanks

 

[Wingnuttzz]

Yes correct unless I use steering, brake lights, rear heaters, head lights, AC etc so it will vary between 1,800 being worse case and 900 or so fully loaded up

That seems a really high static (no load) idle. Mine used to idle between 1100rpm and 1200 rpm (IACV and Air Assist Removed), and under load (lights on, window heater, AC on etc) it used to drop to around 800-900rpm.

Deleting the IACV is perfectly fine in my opinion, but if you do, don't remove the air assist valve otherwise cold starting is difficult. If you do remove both a touch of throttle will be required to start from cold and it will idle at around 500rpm until warmed up unless you hold your foot on the throttle.

 

[coyote_dc5]

Yes as it happens it does start lower RPM from cold, id say 1,100 or so and then creeps up as it warms up to warn idle of 1,800. I have no issue with it to be honest and its actually not as loud as you may imagine at 1,800. I'm just happy its not hunting every 5mins like before and now something I don't have to worry about.

 

[Tegiwa Imports]

Was just going to update this with the correct part number. Thanks

And at that price, its already a fair bit cheaper than the quote I received from Steels Honda. xthumbup

Plus the forum discount on top of yours Tegiwa,.......you may have a sale in the near future. Many thanks

Let me know, delivery would be around 1 week.

Thanks

 

[Beefman147]

That seems a really high static (no load) idle. Mine used to idle between 1100rpm and 1200 rpm (IACV and Air Assist Removed), and under load (lights on, window heater, AC on etc) it used to drop to around 800-900rpm.

Deleting the IACV is perfectly fine in my opinion, but if you do, don't remove the air assist valve otherwise cold starting is difficult. If you do remove both a touch of throttle will be required to start from cold and it will idle at around 500rpm until warmed up unless you hold your foot on the throttle.

Hi. Sorry for hijacking this thread but this post seemed relevant to an issue I am having. The Dc5 i currently own has had the IACV blanked off. It suffers from the exact issue you mentioned where it idles at 500rpm until warmed up but is grand after that.

Is there any way to resolve this? Like a manual idle screw. I believe there is also a pipe blocked with a screw running from the air assist valve like you mentioned.