are energy mount inserts important?

[brucey87]

i got my spoon mani fitted today BUT even though i told the fitters that the inserts had to be fitted else the mani would crack they didnt fit them. they said they tryed but something needed to be pressed in or something? :?

just wondering if the mount inserts are a must! i dont fancy cracking the mani already. how hard is it to fit the inserts i thought it was an easy d.i.y jobby?

 

[phil r]

You may get away with the spoon , I know the buddy club car runs standard mounts with there header because of the design of it spoke to paul hughes about same topic dont really want to run inserts myself because of the cabin vibrations , but a mate of mine came up with agood idea by drilling inserts like a cheese grater to soften them up a bit , best to ask tgm to make sure

 

[MarkyD]

You might get away with out them but better safe than sorry. They are a must for toda and dc headers i think. They are quite cheap and easy to fit. well worth it imo.

I had mine done and didnt experience any vibration what so ever and was well impressed with them. You could fit an engine damper as an alternative mate.

 

[BadBadtz]

I would strongly recommend them. They are cheap and will extend the life of the flexipipe plus they also greatly reduce wheel hop.

You void the warranty with DCSports manifolds if you dont have them fitted.

ESMM are easy to fit (once you've dropped the subframe) and don't require anything pressed out.
A half way alternative would be to fit just one of them (the front being considerably easier than the rear)

 

[BadBadtz]

I had mine done and didnt experience any vibration what so ever and was well impressed with them. You could fit an engine damper as an alternative mate.

You definitely get increased cabin vibrations. I hated mine at first until they bedded in but now I love the improved engine response and lack of wheel hop.

Engine dampers generally increase cabin vibrations a lot more than ESMM's

 

[MarkyD]

If there was any vibration then it certainly wasn't obtrusive.

Bruce i'm sure Ross could fit them no probs.

 

[Mark_teg]

Wouldn't the rear insert be best to fit if you're only to fit one?? :?

 

[brucey87]

If there was any vibration then it certainly wasn't obtrusive.

Bruce i'm sure Ross could fit them no probs.

iv got a engine torque damper already. me and ross tryed to fit them but failed we tryed the two rear ones they wasnt undoing for :xshot: we only had a normal ratchet though, so i thought id leave it to the pro's with their air tools. i mite drill some small holes in though as phil said but wouldnt that be defeating the object?

heard you got rid of the dc5 marky? whats the new one like if youv got it yet? heard your importing it your self?

 

[Dc5Dub07]

an ETD should do the trick.. ive been using one for almost a year with my DC sports mani

 

[phil r]

If there was any vibration then it certainly wasn't obtrusive.

Bruce i'm sure Ross could fit them no probs.

iv got a engine torque damper already. me and ross tryed to fit them but failed we tryed the two rear ones they wasnt undoing for :xshot: we only had a normal ratchet though, so i thought id leave it to the pro's with their air tools. i mite drill some small holes in though as phil said but wouldnt that be defeating the object?

heard you got rid of the dc5 marky? whats the new one like if youv got it yet? heard your importing it your self?

Will be getting my header at some point but( jonster) is advicing me on some of the things , mounts , headers etc as I carry on with my build , he said if he was doing it over again he would have done some things differantly ,and up to now he has been spot on with advising me , only trouble is he keeps spending my dosh :lol:

 

[MarkyD]

iv got a engine torque damper already. me and ross tryed to fit them but failed we tryed the two rear ones they wasnt undoing for :xshot: we only had a normal ratchet though, so i thought id leave it to the pro's with their air tools. i mite drill some small holes in though as phil said but wouldnt that be defeating the object?

heard you got rid of the dc5 marky? whats the new one like if youv got it yet? heard your importing it your self?

The engine torque damper should be suffice but go for the inserts as well as a double precaution. I agree i think drilling and softening the inserts is counter productive and if you are slready getting vibration from your damper then a little more should'nt make much difference.

As for importing a DC5 myself:

I sold my car last thursday and hav'nt even looked for another car since how come that little rumour made it 220 miles west :lol:

but you never know :-$

 

[brucey87]

iv got a engine torque damper already. me and ross tryed to fit them but failed we tryed the two rear ones they wasnt undoing for :xshot: we only had a normal ratchet though, so i thought id leave it to the pro's with their air tools. i mite drill some small holes in though as phil said but wouldnt that be defeating the object?

heard you got rid of the dc5 marky? whats the new one like if youv got it yet? heard your importing it your self?

The engine torque damper should be suffice but go for the inserts as well as a double precaution. I agree i think drilling and softening the inserts is counter productive and if you are slready getting vibration from your damper then a little more should'nt make much difference.

As for importing a DC5 myself:

I sold my car last thursday and hav'nt even looked for another car since how come that little rumour made it 220 miles west :lol:

but you never know :-$

yh il have to get round to fitting the inserts soon. better to be safe than sorry the mani has been heat wrapped aswel so it would be a shame to get a crack in it now.

its like chinese whisper round here mate :lol: . ross told me luke must of told ross or something. so is it gonna be another dc5?

 

[jonster]

only trouble is he keeps spending my dosh :lol:

I'm saving you money by advising the best way forward

I had a TODA mani on mine for the best part of 5 years which involved a fair few track days and was removed each year for MOTs. I had no issues with the flex hose section and recently sold it to a CTR owner. I did try the ESSMs (paired and individually). Had them installed by TGM (who didn't need to drop the sub-frame). Directly after they were installed I went for a driving holiday to Norway via Newcastle hence put a good few miles on the car. I also fiddled about with the engine idle with the KPro to try and reduce tick-over vibes. Despite this I couldn't live with the cabin vibes and had them removed. I took the plunge and bought Mugen mounts just for peace of mind in the end. I still think 'swiss-cheese' drilling the ESMMs might be a good compromise. I must explain that I made quite an effort to save weight on my car (interior, wheels, disc etc...) over the years, which can only have helped reduced the load on my mounts.

I also think cracked header section issues are probably down to driving style to some extent. If you hoof it away from rest you will put the most strain on the mounts/header (even worse if you get wheel hop at the same time).

 

[brucey87]

only trouble is he keeps spending my dosh :lol:

I'm saving you money by advising the best way forward

I had a TODA mani on mine for the best part of 5 years which involved a fair few track days and was removed each year for MOTs. I had no issues with the flex hose section and recently sold it to a CTR owner. I did try the ESSMs (paired and individually). Had them installed by TGM (who didn't need to drop the sub-frame). Directly after they were installed I went for a driving holiday to Norway via Newcastle hence put a good few miles on the car. I also fiddled about with the engine idle with the KPro to try and reduce tick-over vibes. Despite this I couldn't live with the cabin vibes and had them removed. I took the plunge and bought Mugen mounts just for peace of mind in the end. I still think 'swiss-cheese' drilling the ESMMs might be a good compromise. I must explain that I made quite an effort to save weight on my car (interior, wheels, disc etc...) over the years, which can only have helped reduced the load on my mounts.

I also think cracked header section issues are probably down to driving style to some extent. If you hoof it away from rest you will put the most strain on the mounts/header (even worse if you get wheel hop at the same time).

iv been looking at those mugen mounts but they are pretty expensive. did you get much cabin vibrations with them? iv got a ETD fitted and only noticed a slight bit more vibration when engine is warm and its ticking over. it ticks over a bit too low i think, il see if i can change it when i get kpro.

 

[fonz600]

You don't need to drop the subframe to fit ESMM. I fitted mine myself. I fitted front and backs but what I did was lube them up with rubber grease before I fitted them to allow them to bed in better.
Also if you have Kpro raising your idle to 950 helps with cabin vibration.
I barely noticed any difference in cabin if at all but definitely noticed the improvement on the wheel hop which in my mind makes them worth it for how cheap they are alone.

 

[brucey87]

You don't need to drop the subframe to fit ESMM. I fitted mine myself. I fitted front and backs but what I did was lube them up with rubber grease before I fitted them to allow them to bed in better.
Also if you have Kpro raising your idle to 950 helps with cabin vibration.
I barely noticed any difference in cabin if at all but definitely noticed the improvement on the wheel hop which in my mind makes them worth it for how cheap they are alone.

right il give them another go then. didnt you need to press anything in? me and a mate was trying to undo the mounts with a fairly heavy duty ratchet but they wasnt budging so just gave up. what tools did you use?

 

[fonz600]

I probably used a power bar to start off before switching to a rathcet. Soak the bolt in WD40 a while before you start and give the head of the bolt a good whack with a hammer. Sometimes the shock helps loosen things off.

Didn't need to press anything no. Just took the mount off greased up the inserts, slotted them over original mounts and squeezed the mount back in place. I fitted them myself but deffo handy if u have a mate to help line things up as u may need to move the engine a little with a jack or lever bar to help get them back in.

If I remember correctly the back was easier than the front. It was a few years ago i did it so memory a bit fuzzy on it.