Baffled sump - just checking

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
151
Hey folks,

I've not found a guide for this but read quite a few forum posts. My teg is going to be used for track use and I don't believe it has a baffled sump (still has full length dip stick, no issues refitting).

The Clockwise one seems well regarded and not uber expensive and most important requires no welding.

It seems procedure is:

- Jack up car onto axle stands
- Drain oil
- Remove front two bolts on front sub frame
- Loosen rear two bolts of front sub frame
- Remove bolt on centre front engine mount on sub frame
- Undo sump and carefully pry / lever off
- Slide out in hole made from dropping sub frame a bit
- Add new baffles
- Clean up mating surface
- Add new gasket sealer
- Refit and tighten
- Refill oit
- Wait a bit for the gasket sealer to set

Job done. Any issues with this?

One major questions is people talking of using an engine crane to support the engine. Is there a safety concern due to the engine mount unbolting / frame dropping?

Thanks all.
 

James-T

Advanced Member
Messages
532
Yep that seems about right.

No need for engine crane at all as the side engine mounts will hold the engine in place.
 

SamDC5

Advanced Member
Messages
1,358
rsmithinfo said:
Hey folks,

I've not found a guide for this but read quite a few forum posts. My teg is going to be used for track use and I don't believe it has a baffled sump (still has full length dip stick, no issues refitting).

The Clockwise one seems well regarded and not uber expensive and most important requires no welding.

It seems procedure is:

- Jack up car onto axle stands
- Drain oil
- Remove front two bolts on front sub frame
- Loosen rear two bolts of front sub frame
- Remove bolt on centre front engine mount on sub frame
- Undo sump and carefully pry / lever off
- Slide out in hole made from dropping sub frame a bit
- Add new baffles
- Clean up mating surface
- Add new gasket sealer
- Refit and tighten
- Refill oit
- Wait a bit for the gasket sealer to set

Job done. Any issues with this?

One major questions is people talking of using an engine crane to support the engine. Is there a safety concern due to the engine mount unbolting / frame dropping?

Thanks all.
Yeah that's the way to do it. I'd hold off with filling with oil straight away until the sealer sets just to ensure all is OK. If you're using hondabond be prepared for cramp as it's a super pain in the ass to get the sealant out.

Before putting the sealant on, practice putting the sump on with the baffle installed as it can be a bit fiddly.

Also, all the bolts for the sump are the same size so don't worry about sorting them.

Make sure you have a good idea of where the bolts are for the sump, there's some really hidden ones. I reccomend printing out the page from the workshop manual to help you make sure you know where all the bolts are, don't force the sump off, it should come off pretty easily providing all the bolts are out.

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rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
151
Thanks Sam, I‘ve got the manual and tend to use it! Having just done the cam cover, I agree with test fitting it made it much easier once the sealer was there.

Good idea on waiting on oil for a bit too.

Thanks for the advice. Will order the Clockwise soon and then crack on!
 

20Drift

Members
Staff member
Messages
243
Just fitted the clockwise one last weekend. Couple of tips...

Before you take the subframe bolts off, mark the bolt positions against the subframe to get the rough torque positions when refitting.

There sump bolts are pretty obvious when you‘re under the car, but there are two hidden inside the flywheel inspection case which I missed for about an hour.

I put the Hondabond on the engine block face instead of the sump face, and used my finger to spread. Found it much easier to get the sump on this way as when trial fitting I kept clipping the timing chain on the drivers side of the engine (due to subframe clearance).

Once installed, wait 30-45 mins before adding oil. Don‘t run the engine for a further three hours (shop manual says this). I left mine overnight.

You may need to file your dipstick. I‘m inpatient so used some tin snips to cut just below the minimum mark on there and then filed it to be rounded at the bottom


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rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
151
Thanks good advice - so is there a cover on the flywheel case that needs to be removed?
 

20Drift

Members
Staff member
Messages
243
rsmithinfo said:
Thanks good advice - so is there a cover on the flywheel case that needs to be removed?
It‘s just a little inspection cover. Held in with one bolt going up into the block and one going out towards the gearbox.

When you take that out there are two more bolts which are going upwards holding the sump to the block - I missed these initially and spent about half an hour trying to remove the sump with these still in [emoji2962]


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