Best geo settings for camber - camber bolts ect

[Blake]

Looking for some advice really, I'm running mugen silvers on my car with federal RSR tyres, I got the geo done back to stock DC5 settings 0 toe ect

I used the car on croft and I was experiencing some harsh outside tyre wear and under steer towards the end of my session.

The cars going for a clutch replacement and I'm after some front camber bolts, what should I put them too do you think? Guessing it wants a little camber on it up front as it felt too square on

Not sure what to ask for as my local place will do any settings I ask for using a hunter machine but they aren't experts them selfs..

Cheers!

 

[Dan34]

Yeah I would advise upping the camber on the front at least.

Do you know what camber you are at, at the moment? If you can, try and get -1.5 on the front. Probably wont get much more out of the bolts.

 

[spooke]

I recently had my geometry set to,

Front Camber -1.10 (couldn't get anymore from the struts, may adjust via topmount to get closer to -2)
Front Toe 0

Rear Camber will be -1
Rear Toe 0.10

 

[JDM-DC5]

I recently had my geometry set to,

Front Camber -1.10 (couldn't get anymore from the struts, may adjust via topmount to get closer to -2)
Front Toe 0

Rear Camber will be -1
Rear Toe 0.10

How does it feel with these settings? Fitting these new meister R coilovers when I get a decent day and just want a good daily road set up where I won't get killer tyre wear

 

[spooke]

It feels pretty good, at the moment my rear camber is actually -2.25 as I didn't buy any camber arms so that and the weather/ tyres are holding it back but I wouldn't personally want anymore camber or more aggressive toe for a car I drive daily. Waiting to order some camber arms to get fitted along with a fresh alignment, when you have fitted the coilovers just get it roughly aligned and drive it for a few days to let it all settle and then get the alignment else you'll be doing it twice.

 

[Mebz]

Camber won't kill your tyres it's the toe that will.

For me it's 0.5 toe out at the front for the sharper turn in and 0.5 degree toe in at the rear for stability.

Camber wise I have -2.0 at the front and -1.8 at the rear.

I don't think you'll get that much with just camber bolts on the front

 

[MeisterR]

Talk to chassis specialist like Tom @ TGM or Grinspeed who are very experienced in the Honda chassis.
From recollection it is either -1.5 to -2.0 camber on the front, but they would be the one to set the car up.

The DC5 front suspension design mean the camber, toe, and ride height are connected (it affect each other).
So it is a chassis that experience really pays off on.

Jerrick

 

[hondazzz]

Looking for some advice really, I'm running mugen silvers on my car with federal RSR tyres, I got the geo done back to stock DC5 settings 0 toe ect
I used the car on croft and I was experiencing some harsh outside tyre wear and under steer towards the end of my session.
The cars going for a clutch replacement and I'm after some front camber bolts, what should I put them too do you think? Guessing it wants a little camber on it up front as it felt too square on
Not sure what to ask for as my local place will do any settings I ask for using a hunter machine but they aren't experts them selfs..
Cheers!

I have mugen SS too and am running -1,5 degrees at front with eibach bolts.. So i guess you will get atleast -1,5 degree also!
so do that and you will see if you are happy with it..

 

[wj51fut]

When I went for my geometry setup the garage said I could get -2.5 camber with the Mugen SS and Spoon springs. But I needed shorter tie rods (in the post) I don't think I will go that negative but -2.0 on the front and -1.5 on the rear sounds good to me.

 

[Liam]

I use 0.5mm toe out on front, 1mm toe in on rear, and -1.5 degrees camber all round. Feels good to me and no problems with tyre wear at Croft. I may try -2 degrees on the front and leave the rear as is next time I need an alignment session.