block advice, also exhaust and manifold

[weggy]

I am looking at building an engine for my DC5 and was wondering if there is a difference between K20 engine blocks eg a standered accord 2.0 to a DC5 block. I will be replacing all internals and using my head after abit of fettling?

Also would it be better looking at a different exhaust and manifold I am running a spoon 4-2 and a 2-1 with decat mated onto a mugen twin loop?

Any advice would be apprieciated I will be starting to look for a block early next year but believe in doing things right first time. My plan is to build an approx 300bhp NA engine. I have a mugen intake and spoon 70mm throttle body with the fd2 intake manifold. Just to give yuou a fuller picture.

Cheers in advance.

 

[spo_gen]

The block in the 2.0 Accord is not a K20 AFAIK. Unless your talking about the CL7 Euro R.

 

[Jayk]

You want the K24 bottom end, if you want to reach 300bhp N/A.

K24 Bottom end (stock will do) But will not rev as high as K20
Ditch your mugen intake - get CAI or Gruppe M
Get some wild cams (Toda A3's seem to yield the best results from what i have seen, better than buddyclub, skunk2, IPS, blueprint etc)
Get your RBC intake on,
Buddyclub or Toda Manifold. I wouldnt use a spoon.
A good 3" exhaust
And buy my PRB KPRO ECU lol.

You will be at very good reliable 300bhp and alot of torque!

 

[weggy]

cheers jay I realise that a k24 hybrid is the easy way to go but I like the higher revs

The cams that you mentioned are on the shopping list cheers for the manifold and exhaust recomendations. I was going down the toda stroker kit and go for the high compression pistons 13-1 etc...

so the end result should be a 2.2 300bhp monster.

As for the k pro I am running an autronics SM4 I like to go a different route.

 

[Jayk]

If you strenghten the K24 block you will be able to get it reving just as high as the K20. Its just to be on the safe side. You get good built n/a blocks from the US at good prices. Pm Integrastella on here, he can help with that.

Stocker kit would work but i dont think it would give as much torque as the K24, for the cost of a Toda Stroker kit you could get a fully built K24 from the US.

I do not know about the SM4 ECU so cannot say, all i know is the Hondata is tried and test, would be good to see how the SM4 works, can it map VTEC windows and Cam angle?

Or you could just put in forged Rods in your K20A motor, CAI, BuddyClub exhaust manifold, 70mm exhaust, JRSC Supercharger Kit. 300bhp :lol:

Ohh just thought, you could use the VTEC Killer Camshafts as there known, there will be no VTEC at all then, but they are for track use only really. There on the Toda website.

 

[weggy]

Cheers will look at the k24 a bit more now mate as it was the lack of revs that put me off.

As for the autronics I am already running it I did start a thread to let people know but it got hijacked by alot of people that didn't want change so I stopped updating it.

It seems to be fine for all the honda needs I am running 259bhp @ the fly with my current spec. As I am the demo car it has been a long time coming but Richy at performance autoworks has done a fantastic job to get there. The advantage of the autronics is that it can be live mapped and as it is a stand alone replacement there is no restrictions on use it compares more to motech really than the hondata. Iwould have done the hondata but the chance to start a new direction was to tempting.

Cheers for all your input Jay I will be doing some more research now as I have obviousley missed some bits. Any web sites that may help ? I will email integrastella as well. You have restored my faith in this forum. Cheers again

 

[Jayk]

No Problems dude. Yes thats what i used to hate about the KPRO, being it cannot be live mapped, but its not to bad, it does behave as a piggback ecu really. I turned away from Standalone due to effort and hassle etc, KPRO just seemed easier. Ive just sold mine now, if i come back may inquire about the autronics ecu. Are these not used widely in EVOs?

What mods are you currently running to get that? That seems a high power figure.

I ran 234@fly with CAI, Toda Mani, Supersprint Bpipe, I put the KPRO on and i think it will be a healthy 245 as it does pull alot harder, lined up against my uncles very quick JDM DC2, compared before and after.

N/A is an expensive game, but if performance autoworks are helping out as your there demo then game on! Yeah Integrastella/Andy has a wealth of knowledge as he is building his own K24/K20 hybrid for his DC5. I spoke to him no long ago and its almost there.

No problems
Jay

 

[weggy]

I have got from the front mugen airbox with hard pipe onto a latest spec spoon 70mm throttle body with the FD2 inlet manifold. With a spoon 4-2 2-1 with decat exhaust manifold with a mugen twin loop exhaust. Also obviousley the autronics ecu.

This is now the next step and thought I would go the whole hog instead of the odd bit here and there as it is cheaper in the long run to do it in one hit.

Cheers for the links mate will be checking them out.

 

[Jayk]

Thats good that is, as the Mugen Airbox really doesnt do much for the K20A, and the Twinloop is a restrictive exhaust.

Id say if you got a CAI, like a Fujita F5, or AEM V1, or a Gruppe M, then a exhaust like, Toda, Buddyclub etc you'd see more!

That ECU must be working if thats the figure. Rollers might be high :wink: