Braided Brake Lines
- Thread starter robbyp
- Start date
Chris-DC5
Advanced Member
- Messages
- 744
They are not hard to put on if you are confident and have the right tools.
My only advice is that only do it if you are 100% sure you can do the job and if you get stuck you can get a friend
who knows what they are doing to come and finish the job.
If you get it wrong then you could find yourself in a wall or the back of another car.
Cheers
My only advice is that only do it if you are 100% sure you can do the job and if you get stuck you can get a friend
who knows what they are doing to come and finish the job.
If you get it wrong then you could find yourself in a wall or the back of another car.
Cheers
I watched a mechanic mate do mine, he made it look very easy.
make sure you put the long ones on the front wheels, they are only about 1 -2 inches longer.
Get a mate to pump the air out the brakes and bleed them properly topping up the brake fluid each time. Make sure the brake pedal is floored and only release this once the bleeeder is tightened up. This stops air being sucked back into the system.
Test your brakes before hitting a junction lol!!
make sure you put the long ones on the front wheels, they are only about 1 -2 inches longer.
Get a mate to pump the air out the brakes and bleed them properly topping up the brake fluid each time. Make sure the brake pedal is floored and only release this once the bleeeder is tightened up. This stops air being sucked back into the system.
Test your brakes before hitting a junction lol!!
VT-Doo
RushDoo
- Messages
- 1,302
DO NOT push the brake pedal to the floor while bleeding the system!
It is important to put a block of wood under the brake pedal.
The reason for this is quite simple. Continuous use of the brakes cleans the surface of the pushrod.
Over time the end of the pushrod not being cleaned becomes rough and dirty. When the pedal is pushed to the floor this rough end of the pushrod is forced past the seal(s) which can cause the seal(s) to perish resulting in soft brakes and/or leaks.
The block of wood simply restricts the rod to "normal" travel, where the cylinder is well mated to the seal(s).
I do not know if this was the cause of the master cylinder fault which developed on Andy's CR-X SiR recently but at a guess I would say so.
In that case the car obviously hadn't been driven for a while and like I said above, the pushrod will corrode.
By the time the car came over to the UK and used for a few hundred miles the corrosion on the pushrod has split the seal(s) and now required a rebuild.
Back on topic though...changing the lines is a simple enough procedure, bleeding the brakes however requires some knowledge of what you're dealing with. Once you understand the simple things it's an easy task.
Also, according to the RSX Manual (bare in mind this is a left-hand-drive car) the order of bleeding is;
1) Front Left
2) Front Right
3) Rear Right
4) rear Left
It is important to put a block of wood under the brake pedal.
The reason for this is quite simple. Continuous use of the brakes cleans the surface of the pushrod.
Over time the end of the pushrod not being cleaned becomes rough and dirty. When the pedal is pushed to the floor this rough end of the pushrod is forced past the seal(s) which can cause the seal(s) to perish resulting in soft brakes and/or leaks.
The block of wood simply restricts the rod to "normal" travel, where the cylinder is well mated to the seal(s).
I do not know if this was the cause of the master cylinder fault which developed on Andy's CR-X SiR recently but at a guess I would say so.
In that case the car obviously hadn't been driven for a while and like I said above, the pushrod will corrode.
By the time the car came over to the UK and used for a few hundred miles the corrosion on the pushrod has split the seal(s) and now required a rebuild.
Back on topic though...changing the lines is a simple enough procedure, bleeding the brakes however requires some knowledge of what you're dealing with. Once you understand the simple things it's an easy task.
Also, according to the RSX Manual (bare in mind this is a left-hand-drive car) the order of bleeding is;
1) Front Left
2) Front Right
3) Rear Right
4) rear Left
robbyp
Advanced Member
- Messages
- 206
Fitted these around Christmas time with set of Mintex 1144's and seems a good job. Was handy enough done. I bleed mine starting with the farthest away from the brake fluid bottle so back left, back right, front left, front right worked alright for me, thats the way few rally fellas i now do it, but thanks for the advice Vt-Doo 
KierAn20
Active Member
- Messages
- 59
When bleeding the brakes, would you have the engine on for servo assistance or engine off?
Might seem a silly question but I've never done it before :?
My guess is that maybe it doesnt really matter whether it's on or off, but perhaps you guys have a preference?
Might seem a silly question but I've never done it before :?
My guess is that maybe it doesnt really matter whether it's on or off, but perhaps you guys have a preference?
continuing the topic of bleeding..
I just did my car and all the calipers was good except the front right, inner nipple. it just kept pushing air bubbles no matter what. I probably went thru 1-2 liters of RBF600 and this is the shortest brake line on the car so it shouldn't really take much at all.
I did not open the nipple too much.
I switched the nipples around but the problem remained so the nipple itself is fine.
The outer nipple on the same caliper is fine, no air bubbles, so the brake line itself must be ok?
So where does the air come from? Maybe the threads on the calipers? in this case, all is good, but it's quite hard to be sure about that.
too much nipples..
I just did my car and all the calipers was good except the front right, inner nipple. it just kept pushing air bubbles no matter what. I probably went thru 1-2 liters of RBF600 and this is the shortest brake line on the car so it shouldn't really take much at all.
I did not open the nipple too much.
I switched the nipples around but the problem remained so the nipple itself is fine.
The outer nipple on the same caliper is fine, no air bubbles, so the brake line itself must be ok?
So where does the air come from? Maybe the threads on the calipers? in this case, all is good, but it's quite hard to be sure about that.
too much nipples..