As regarding the set up, the countless full blown megane track cars, ring cars, professional race meganes etc the one thing you never see changed is the brake set up apart from discs and pads but they all still run these calipers. If that's not enough of a selling point I dont know what is
The Calipers on Race cars are not the same as those sold on the road cars normally, the Brembo's out the factory on cars are generally the lower end ones (2 piece and heavy), the ones applied to and fitted to full blown race and track cars are generally a mono block caliper (much lighter, up to 60%) and of better quality.
Calipers are not the issue on the DC5, it's characteristics are bvery similar to a DC2 by means of lift off oversteer, the rear unsettles and this is 90% of the time due to alignment issues and not to do with the brakes.
In a car that's got such a light rear you're better off braking in a straight line only, if you are even turning the sheel a bit the back will want to step around on you and will generally feel as if it's trying to overtake the front but this is the oversteer kicking in.
When braking all the force and weight is transferred to the front so if you are braking that late that the car's still slightly unsettled when you are entering the corner it will feel offbalance (I personally like this feeling) but some don't. This can be resolved to an extent by means of a different geo setup and this is why when people ask for others settings they may hate them, what one likes is not going to be for another etc).
Adjustments to camber and toe can deal with such characteristics but the fact the rear is so light means it will always be present to an extent.
Yes mate, really badly as well. I've been told as it has a very light rear end, it's trying to overtake the front but this to me totally unsettles the entire car and a result, I can't push it as hard as I'd like on track. The grip levels on the AD08R were also disappointing although they did fare better than the RE070's this time.
To me this sounds like the tyres were not getting hot enough to grip, I find them very good on track and road, they are very capable which is why so many people use on on many makes and model's of cars, they need to get hot and very sticky, did you come back with much tyre stuck to them and all over the car ?
I just can't seem to get it feeling planted and precise, there's always a bit of lean and body roll and the rear feeling like it's trying to overtake the front plus the poor braking modulation. I do think coilovers would help along with a BBK or better pads, but it's hard to know which Coilovers to go for as the car is mainly a road car (daily) for me.
Nitron/Bilstein or Ohlins would be great but they're mega expensive. I'd like a roll cage to help stiffen up the chassis but getting in and out of the car would be a total nightmare
The body roll on the Mugen Spoon setup you have will be no diff to what I had on my car with that setup, aside from any additional mods you have made as mine was OEM with that suspension setup, the amount of roll gave me massive amounts of confidence as it helped me to register when any lift off oversteer would be encountered, what other parts have you got on the car that could and would impact the chassis?
Coilovers wont help, if anything they will make it worse for you as you wont have that on on on then of switch, by this I mean there is no progression as the flatter the car the harder it is to judge the final switch point at then it's going to step out, with the minimal role obtained when using your current shock and spring combo this is very easy to judge but with coilovers it will grip grip grip then slip and this is when you have to be on the ball to catch it or know if and when it could happen.
I honestly think the problems are a combo of things as below
1) Lack of seat time - the more you drive it and get things up to temp the better, mainly track, road use will give nothing as the roads are not equal to a track so any track focussed setup will not offer confidence on a bumper knackered old road with camber going all over the place
2) Consifence in yourself and the car, there is no way you will be at the level to meet the cars maximum levels (not being rude by saying that) but 99% poss even 100% here are not at that driving level, I am no where near my cars limits, it took me about 7yrs to fully master my DC2 for full driving capabilities with heel and toe etc etc and I still believe there was more to be had. The DC5 I think I am about 60% there (if that) in 3 years and many many sessions on track on a track I have been driving since I was 18.
3) Braking and cornering understanding, by this I don't mean you don't understand them but I mean fully learning and understanding the cars braking and cornering characteristics
4) Getting a geo that offers you what you want and need from the car, this is optimal and a key point, the car for one person will feel fine whereas to another it will feel horrible, my settings wont be for everyone and tbh I am constantly tweaking them and I know I am slower with my new setup as a whole on laps as I need seat time to get to grips with it, but I also know at brands I had 3 points where I was much faster than last year.
The BBK and Coilovers are just more expense on parts that people throw on cars without thinking believing they will answer their prayers, this is not the case, it's trial and error but to master it fully you need it to drive how you feel comfy first then make alterations, the more people throw at a car at once the harder it is to understand the impact of change A, B and C etc.
Hope that all comes across as ok and not rude as I don't mean it too but I have seen so many posts about bad handling DC5's recently I don't get it, it's one of the best FWD handling cars of all time (apart from in the UK on oem suspension as it's to harsh for the UK roads as we all know.