car wont start any ideas? AA were useless

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darkhawk

Advanced Member
Messages
183
Hey

Went out for a drive and got some fuel just after getting fuel halfway up the slip road the car died :/ was still running but wouldn't rev so pulled over just as it cut off


Wouldn't fire up again but it tried

Searched everywhere and found ignition fuse under the dash blew

Replaced it started up first time happy days


Got 10 min down road and similar thing happened so went for fuse again and it's fine


Tried to start it and nothing... No lights on dash no trying to start nothing even the Windows won't go back up luckily its not to cold and it's dry


Any ideas? AA guy came checked fuses then said dunno see ya.... So it's not a fuse and iv checked all wires I can see
 
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Phelpo711

Advanced Member
Messages
421
Sounds like connection/cable gas possibly shorted out? Go back to basics.... If one fuse has blown check all the major fuses aswell.

I always remember honda saying that cars running the K20's are pretty much bullet proof mechanically and electrically, hardly ever blow fuses..... Sounds odd! Good luck bud
 
maxvr6

maxvr6

Advanced Member
Messages
1,907
True, it could be a duff battery, i bought a new one once and it lasted 3 days before it completely died, when the battery was turned to one side it started working again, turned out there was a loose connection inside the battery! This is not the same thing obviously but could be worth a try.
 
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darkhawk

Advanced Member
Messages
183
I'll try the battery


Will get jump leads on it and see if it runs then


If battery died it wouldn't turn off/loose throttle would it?. Surely when it's running it's running etc


Checked what earths I could but was dark and no tools and an AA bloke who new less than me :/



Didn't help that he didn't know what the car was tho
 
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davidpingu

Advanced Member
Messages
2,583
Roadside assistance in general tend to be useless. Only good for getting you home. Take their advice with a pinch of salt.
Dodgy battery can cause all sorts of issues as the DC5 seems very sensitive to drops in voltage. Lots of random stuff described in posts like dials going crazy, dash flashing like a Christmas tree etc. Sudden changes in voltage may cause fuses to blow or affect the ECU making the correct calculations.

I'm not saying it is the battery but it's the simplest place to start as changing it for a borrowed one is free and a 10 minute job.

If it's not the battery, a dodgy alternator could also be the culprit so getting a multimeter out might be the next port of call. Alternator problems seem rare but given the age these cars are getting to, it's a possibility.

HTH
 
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darkhawk

Advanced Member
Messages
183
we've checked all earths that we could find and all wiring in general


Mates bringing a multimeter round later to have a play

Other thing we're thinking is ignition switch


Anyone know how much these are or how easy to change?


Cheers

Jack
 
Rom

Rom

Advanced Member
Messages
1,742
A car needs a battery in some state of half decent health for it to run.

Batteries are DC, direct current, alternators are AC, Alternating Current. Your car cannot run on AC, the ecu, injectors, coil packs, everything, is all setup to run on DC. The diode pack will change AC to DC, but it still needs the battery to store it.

So if the battery, and or alternator (if alternator is fubar, battery wont last long) are playing up, you could very well havea car that dies, and wont start, and has no power to anything.

Very first step, measure battery voltage. Get a charger on it, or a set of jump leads. Does the car now have power ?

Once the car runs, measure battery voltage again with it running. Should be around 14v.

An ignition switch would give you no power to anything that requires ignition live. So try hazards, sidelights, anything that doesnt need ignition to be on to work. Do they still work ?
Fitting wise, they are on the back of the barrel, so will require at least the column shroud removing. Not done an Integra, some cars can be done in situ, others need barrel off to get to retaining screws.
Its the but at the end of the barrel, with all the wires attached / plugged in. If you take it off, you essentially bypass the need for a key. Anything can be used to turn it. This is why they are not easy to get off.

Usually, if its a switch, it doesnt just stop working. They get temperamental, trying it over and over usually gets it going etc. Eventually they wear to the point that the barrel cannot turn the switch, but usually takes time.
 
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darkhawk

Advanced Member
Messages
183
Got a mechanic mate round with a multi meter and checked what we can and still no use
Had a play with the ignition switch and he said that's working fine



Something somehwre has rubbed or blown or something electrically


It's got to be something to do with the ignition fuse blowing the first time it died


Need to find a wiring diagram for it
 
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darkhawk

Advanced Member
Messages
183
No dash lights no crank nothing happens when you turn the key



Click 1 radio and gauge come on

But click two and fire up nothing at all

So assuming something on the ignition circuit?


Has aftermarket alarm but when I press fob onto sensor it turns the light off so I'm assuming it's still disarming it
 
C&S Evo7

C&S Evo7

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
8,229
you have your foot on the clutch dont you? its definately worth checking the clutch switch.

I would still be tempted to trace the immobiliser wires and bypass the cuts, if the alarm fails the immobiliser will stay cut. however its strange to have no dash lights whatsoever, immobiliser circuit normally interupts the start relay or feed to the solenoid, and the fuel pump, it wouldnt normally stop all the dash lights etc.
 
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darkhawk

Advanced Member
Messages
183
Yeah clutch is down haha


When the clutch isn't down or haven't touched the alarm and I spin it to second click lights come on and the Windows are useable etc
t

No no matter what I do there's no lights or power Windows etc


Hazards work and so do my headlights
 
CaLi

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
When i unlock my car with the fob it also takes off the immobiliser and get in i have dash lights. and i can start the car as normal.

if i sit in there and wait for 30 seconds the immobiliser kicks back in.
When this happens, if i put key in the ignition..
click 1 - i get radio on, no dash lights and nothing else.
click 2 - i get nothing, no dash lights at all.

Sounds to me like your immobiliser is the culprit here
 
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