Cheapest way to increase front camber

MilanoChris

Advanced Member
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5,649
I'm stuck at 2 degrees max using B16 and the normal camber bolts. I'm still using OEM top mounts and down the line I want to use the castor mounts which will give increased camber and caster. The problem is that it's money I don't really want to be spending now.

I was wondering if there's a cheap and effective way of gaining perhaps another degree of front camber?
 

Reggie91

Advanced Member
Messages
1,285
I think Dan34 has this issue on this Meister R's. So he created an elongated bolt hole at the bottom of the strut to increase camber.

I started a thread a few months back mate about this exact topic when I was looking at coilovers. This is the exact reason I went for the Area YSR track coilovers as it gives me camber at the top mount and the elongated hole at the bottom so I can run a wider set up and dial in the camber properly.
 

spooke

Advanced Member
Messages
1,392
Chris. said:
I'm stuck at 2 degrees max using B16 and the normal camber bolts. I'm still using OEM top mounts and down the line I want to use the castor mounts which will give increased camber and caster. The problem is that it's money I don't really want to be spending now.

I was wondering if there's a cheap and effective way of gaining perhaps another degree of front camber?
I heard about using two sets of camber bolts, unsure if that works though? Else slot the hole on your B16's more?
 

MilanoChris

Advanced Member
Messages
5,649
I think Dan34 has this issue on this Meister R's. So he created an elongated bolt hole at the bottom of the strut to increase camber.

I started a thread a few months back mate about this exact topic when I was looking at coilovers. This is the exact reason I went for the Area YSR track coilovers as it gives me camber at the top mount and the elongated hole at the bottom so I can run a wider set up and dial in the camber properly.
Cheers but I have no interest in YSR or any similar product. I also don't want to modify my Bilsteins if I can help it.

I heard about using two sets of camber bolts, unsure if that works though? Else slot the hole on your B16's more?
I'm not sure, I'll have a search. What about shorter steering arms or am I smoking something?
 

spooke

Advanced Member
Messages
1,392
Chris. said:
Cheers but I have no interest in YSR or any similar product. I also don't want to modify my Bilsteins if I can help it.


I'm not sure, I'll have a search. What about shorter steering arms or am I smoking something?
If you haven't got shorter tie rods then potentially they could be restricting your camber but I think if you maxed your camber you'd know if they were as you wouldn't be able to align the toe within a good parameter.
 

Fez

Advanced Member
Messages
1,441
I tried the 2 camber bolt method on mine when i had stock shocks/spoon springs but i didnt gain any extra camber from just having single bolts.
Elongating the shock/hub holes should help, I think Mike told me before about 5mm is 1°

But as above you may need shortened steering arms then, but you'll need them with the area top mounts anyway.
 

MilanoChris

Advanced Member
Messages
5,649
I tried the 2 camber bolt method on mine when i had stock shocks/spoon springs but i didnt gain any extra camber from just having single bolts.
Elongating the shock/hub holes should help, I think Mike told me before about 5mm is 1°

But as above you may need shortened steering arms then, but you'll need them with the area top mounts anyway.
Cheers. I didn't know that I'd need the top mounts.

Looks like the cheapest way is to slowly buy the bits required for the top mounts and get it done later this year. Drat!
 

Liam

Advanced Member
Messages
225
Get a machine shop to elongate the top hole of the strut and switch from the camber bolts back to the original Honda bolts. My old BuddyClub N+ came from the factory like this and they allow up to -3 degrees with the original steering arms IIRC.

I still have them here if you want a measurement of how much to machine them out?
 

Liam

Advanced Member
Messages
225


Inner diameters measured with a vernier are 23mm top hole and 16.5mm bottom. So I imagine a 6-7mm elongation of the top hole in towards the car would give you what you need.
 

VtecPaul

Advanced Member
Messages
304
Hi folks!
Sorry for bumping an old thread..

I assume that elongating the top bolt holes (inwards, towards the engine bay) on the shocks gives you ability for additional camber, correct?

If you’ve elongated the hole, how do you stop standard bolts from moving? They get torqued up but is that the only thing stopping them from getting knocked out?

And presumably you need to tell the alignment garage that they can be adjusted there too?
 

VtecPaul

Advanced Member
Messages
304
Spoke to Jerrick at MeisterR - he tells me the elongated bolt hole on the top of the MeisterR coilovers is standard, which contradicts some of the above. Anyway - he advises to position the hub at max camber (pushed in towards engine bay as far as it goes) and torque up the bolts. Then align the top mount as required.
 
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