Clutch / Synchro Problems?

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martinj46

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457
Continuing my run of bad luck, I think my clucth / synchros have decided they've had enough :(

On track there has often been a slight crunch if trying to change into 4th too quickly. But yesterday on the gentle drive home from work the gearbox was feeling unusually stiff, and it got worse and worse until the gears were pretty much refusing to go in. Once in gear though it still drives fine. I managed to nurse the car home though.

I've not noticed any clutch slip, or any clucth smell. The clutch was changed about 50k miles ago (they are only good for that sort of mileage apparently?)

Any thoughts? If it is the clucth, should I be replacing the flywheel at the same time? How much am I looking at for that?

Cheers

Martin
 
C&S Evo7

C&S Evo7

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the oem clutch is good for more than 50k if treated right, it could be either tbh, if its an aftermarket clutch then they never last as well as the oem ones.
 
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martinj46

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457
C&S Evo7 said:
the oem clutch is good for more than 50k if treated right, it could be either tbh, if its an aftermarket clutch then they never last as well as the oem ones.
Click to expand...
I'm 99% sure it was an Exedy OEM spec clutch, but will check the paperwork tonight
 
Ezza

Ezza

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I was told to always change the flywheel when changing the clutch, i did so recently on my Evo. My oem clutch wass till going strong on 90k mileage before i sold it so they should definately last longer than 50k
 
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martinj46

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Just a thought... If it was the synchros, surely that would only make it difficult to get into certain gears? (the ones with the failed sychros) It must be fairly unlikely for all the synchros to fail at once?

I didn't make it very clear in my original post, it is now difficult to get it into any gear.
 
Ranja_Ash

Ranja_Ash

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Maybe also worth checking the engine mounts (engine and gearbox side ones).

I just replaced the drivers side engine mount with a Vibra-technics fast road replacement and the mechanic showed me the mount replaced. It was within an inch of letting the engine drop. Rubber was completely split and was probably allowing a good inch if not more of movement.

For around a week or more before I had it changed, changing gears became difficult, similar to what your describing. It wouldn't go in to any gear like it should do.

Having had it changed - gearchanges are back to being slick and smooth. I also changed Gearbox oil with some fresh MTF3 at same time.

I was dreading it was gearbox or clutch on way out but knew that the engine mount had a split in it so changed that as priority to see if it helped and so far it does seem to have been the issue with mine.
 
hondamad2204

hondamad2204

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3,832
that or just check nothing is blocking the selector mechanism on the top of the gearbox.

Thinking about it, there is a bolt and spring in the selector somewhere which has given people a bit of a problem. Usually sloppy gear changes or not being able to get them in gear. not sure where that bit is though. think shanedixon had an issue in that area. ??
 
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martinj46

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Thanks for all the suggestions.

There doesn't seem to be anything blocking the selector and the engine mounts appear to be fine too. I went out last night to try and diagnose it further. For the first 20-mins (while still warming up) it works perfectly, no crunches and nice and smooth. Then it starts to become more difficult to get it into any gear. I also noted that when pulling away from junctions in first gear, there is a bit of judder as the clutch is released.

Fairly sure it's the clucth now, so an Exedy OEM Spec clutch is on it's way from Tegiwa and it's booked into a local Honda specialist to get it swapped over on the 18th.

Hopefully that's it, I'll report back if that solves it :)
 
C&S Evo7

C&S Evo7

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Personally I would buy an Oem clutch from Honda! people will tell you they are made by exedy etc however what ever the difference is there is definitely a difference, the Oem clutch rules if you are only mildly tuned. I raced on one for years ( the same one) as did TGM for many years
 
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davidpingu

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People seem to be saying its most likely the clutch so I don't want to throw you off that idea too much but for the sake of checking, it might be worth ruling out a hydraulic leak in the clutch system?

It seems that if your problem is heat related it could be the fluid thinning enough to find a slow leak somewhere? Lots of things expand and contract due to heat obviously but it was just an idea and could be worth ruling out before a big job like a clutch change. :)
 
C&S Evo7

C&S Evo7

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If there is no leak it's unlikely to be the fluid, but you could bleed some off and have a look at it of course, or just change it it's not too difficult . Getting the box out is a fairly major job, IMO if you are getting it out then just put a new clutch in it for the sake of a £100 and the amount of hassle to change it , it's a no brainier
 
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davidpingu

Advanced Member
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Don't fancy doing my clutch fluid do you Simon? I've got the fluid and a brand new sealey brake bleeding kit. Just not brave enough to mess with it being my daily drive as if I cock it up it'll be a right pain!!

PM me if you like.
 
C&S Evo7

C&S Evo7

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yeh, when i get some space ,ie the show season is underway and the s2000 is moveable again
 
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wayne_teggy

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I've got the same problem at the moment. I'm pretty sure it's a bent selector . I have nothing visible on top of the gearbox that have caused it so must be inside . Box out job
 
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