DC Sports Vs. Toda Mani

[LeeH]

You sure! :wink:

IIRC the DC's are 1 piece.

Spoon do a Two piece but that's the only one.

I have a header (a DC sports ironically :? )

 

[Mark_teg]

Mine is the 4-2-1 and removes the cat
Think the other version is for the EP3 (if they want to keep/interchange the cat)

 

[LeeH]

I'll eat this keyboard if DC do a 2 piece :lol:

 

[dave c]

I'll eat this keyboard if DC do a 2 piece :lol:

I have a DC Sports 2-piece manifold on my car























(x-factor style "return" button for effect)


jk'in.

I have the 4-1 which removes the cat, I don't have the o2sim, Kpro or an engine check light :wink:


Why don't we organise a dyno day and settle the hear say once and for all. i'll film it and could provide a test vehicle, tbh i would prefer not to use mine but if needs must.

All we need now is:

A dyno + operator
A mechanic to swap the parts over
and every type of manifold/catback going,

could anyone help with any of this?

I would be willing to provide a couple of cat back exhausts. I could provide a BC prospec, Mugen twin loop and Standard cat back

 

If you do not change your Cat then your engine light will not come on.

Every DC5 cat that we have removed will bring the engine check light on as long as the secondary lambda sensor is working correctly.Also the engine is functioning correctly and producing the correct expected levels of CO2.There is a facility on K-Pro to switch it off.

 

I forgot to mention the bleedin obvious bulb blown issue. :roll:

 

[dotty]

Toda FTW.

 

Buddyclub BTAOST.

 

[tron2k3]

Toda +1

 

[mikegsi]

If you do not change your Cat then your engine light will not come on.

Every DC5 cat that we have removed will bring the engine check light on as long as the secondary lambda sensor is working correctly.

ive taken my cat off on two seperate tegs and replaced it with a spoon 2-1, NO cel light either time......

NO cel light with my toda mani before k-pro either........


correct me if im wrong ive not double checked to be 100% but it would seem that on the dc5 its ONLY the BC mani system that sets the cel off??

Toda FTW.

Toda +1

+2

 

[Kinli]

The cel does does come on, toda, bc, spoon, dc... whatever. As long as the cat is gone.

The thing is, it doesn't come on right away.. when I put my DC race header on (no kpro etc.)
I could drive many days before the light came on. I guess it depends on different things how
long u can drive before the cel comes on. Anyway, if (when) the cel comes on, the error code
doesn't say "your BC header is rubbish, get a TODA!" it says "OMG! the cat is gone!!" and after
that it might (depending on the rest of your mods), as Paul said, turn the limp mode on and
give an error code like "OMFG! your running so lean I can't compensate it anymore, must save
engine, must save engine..." or something like that. So if you are running say a TODA without
k-pro, without some o2-simulator etc. and you don't get a cel within.. what? 200miles?
Then something is wrong.

J's Racing FTW! :green:

 

Kinli,

That all sounds exactly right to me.

Ignore Mike Gsi Hes got this anti buddyclub thing going on in his head.

We have changed many types of header or just decat down pipes and the ecl comes on eventually even on a lightly tuned car, and usually right away on a highly tuned car, it most deffinately is nothing to do with the brand of header or decat, (silly man).It is dependant on the seconary lambda temprature range, The two lambdas measure the temp difference before and after the cat, if they go out of range the light will come on and even if they go back within range the fault code has been registered in the ecu. If there is no cat then the nominal temp between lambdas should be closer. if for some reason the secondry lambda is cooler and within range of its set perameters then i guess the light will not come on until it eventually goes out of range.

There is no set time for this to happen, it just eventually does.. :xyes:

 

[mikegsi]

Ignore Mike Gsi Hes got this anti buddyclub thing going on in his head.

Ignore me if you wish, but don't be brainwashed either by constant barrages of posts hailing a particular product to be the 'B'est... :? And I know I'm not the only one with this opinion........

it most deffinately is nothing to do with the brand of header or decat, (silly man).

As above I will stand by what I have said, when changing ONLY the 4-2 section for a spoon decat for a few months I never got a cel..... Ok maybe I didn't run it long enough and one day it might have come on, but for the 2months plus I ran it it didn't. Though I appreciate and would expect the cel to come on had I changed the 4-2 section as well and ran it for any length of time

 

[black teg]

Just to add Toda manifold gets the big thumbs up from me xthumbup
i also had no issues what so ever with the 'CEL' light coming on at anytime during the 4 months without the k-pro :xlol:

 

[qamvti]

Hi lads when you change the exhaust manifold do you need to replace the gasket or is it a matter of choice.

Cheers

Kammy

 

[dave c]

Hi lads when you change the exhaust manifold do you need to replace the gasket or is it a matter of choice.

Cheers

Kammy

always a good idea to but not always nessecery depends on the condition really.

 

[NAS]

Toda mani is crap from 7-9.
You need to push the engine further more with advance, to ahieve a decent power and prevent the torque from falling.
Toda is just for a quick ride = midrange power.

If you want more than just a "quick ride" then BC is the answer...

BC manifold + 70mm exhaust + RBC = :shock: :shock: :shock: :xak:

 

[qamvti]

Hi lads when you change the exhaust manifold do you need to replace the gasket or is it a matter of choice.

Cheers

Kammy

always a good idea to but not always nessecery depends on the condition really.

Cheers also forgot to ask do you also need exhaust paste.

 

[mikegsi]

Toda mani is crap from 7-9.
You need to push the engine further more with advance, to ahieve a decent power and prevent the torque from falling.
Toda is just for a quick ride = midrange power.

If you want more than just a "quick ride" then BC is the answer...

BC manifold + 70mm exhaust + RBC = :shock: :shock: :shock: :xak:

fair enough, ill add it to the bank, however.....

most cars on stock internals wont rev over 8.6 and really arent recommended to be taken over 8.2(ish) for any prolonged period, also as you know with k-pro by dropping the vtec engagement you can stay within the vtec band while still changing gear at around 8k.
so the difference between 8-8.6 (which would be over very very very quickly) would be negligible


as for 70mm exhaust i like my eardrums thankyou :lol:


70mm exhaust

 

[NAS]

fair enough, ill add it to the bank, however.....

most cars on stock internals wont rev over 8.6 and really arent recommended to be taken over 8.2(ish) for any prolonged period, also as you know with k-pro by dropping the vtec engagement you can stay within the vtec band while still changing gear at around 8k.
so the difference between 8-8.6 (which would be over very very very quickly) would be negligible


as for 70mm exhaust i like my eardrums thankyou :lol:


70mm exhaust

70mm is not THAT loud :green: It is ok till 3-4000 rpm after that :shock: :shock: :-" :-"

Anyway, my point is that I want the BEST power gains that I could get with stock internals, safely.
When you are on a track or when racing with another car [-X [-X :green: you are always from 6 to 8.500 rpm.
This is where you need the power.
When cruising, you are from 2-2500 to 6500-7. At these rpms Toda is the best.

So it depends on how you use the car.