DC5 tuning advice needed

[sammy_g]

Looking for some advice on where to go next with tuning my DC5 which I picked up a few months ago. Loving it so far but coming from a supercharged car I find myself craving just a little bit more power . Currently running a J'S Racing intake and a Fujitsubo rm01a catback. What of the following upgrades would you recommend if any and what gains could I expect: -

1) just K100 and remap on current mods

OR

2) solid fab manifold with 200 cell cat (would love a toda manifold but don't want the hassle of a decat), k100 and remap.

OR

3) go the whole hog and add in a skunk2 inlet manifold and skunk2 70mm throttle body to option 2)

New to the Honda and n/a world so any advice would be great, not chasing numbers just want abit more usable power

** or option 4) just supercharge it!

 

[ldubl]

Welcome sammy_g! Which car did you have before?



1) £750 220-230bhp

2) £1.5k 230-240bhp

3) £2.5k 240-250bhp

4) Money isn't an object, bhp varies on supporting mods etc


Personally, I've opted for option 2 (albeit going TegToda and TegM)

10% increase in power and torque, esp the chunk in the mid-range, should make a big difference

I deliberated option 1, but the exhaust mani upgrade is good value when considering the extra gains & saves remapping later etc

 

[carl hammond]

Looking for some advice on where to go next with tuning my DC5 which I picked up a few months ago. Loving it so far but coming from a supercharged car I find myself craving just a little bit more power . Currently running a J'S Racing intake and a Fujitsubo rm01a catback. What of the following upgrades would you recommend if any and what gains could I expect: -

1) just K100 and remap on current mods

OR

2) solid fab manifold with 200 cell cat (would love a toda manifold but don't want the hassle of a decat), k100 and remap.

OR

3) go the whole hog and add in a skunk2 inlet manifold and skunk2 70mm throttle body to option 2)

New to the Honda and n/a world so any advice would be great, not chasing numbers just want abit more usable power

** or option 4) just supercharge it!

First thing I‘d say is if you miss the power you got the wrong car, I‘ve come from huge power cars (1000bhp gtr was one of them) and Honda‘s are a completely diff car to buy, own and drive.

Mines running as below

K100, dc sport racing mani/decat, fujitsibu rm01a and an aem v2 long arm cai in the bumper and powers around 230bhp.

Nothing massive but it‘s the chassis and handling, on the toad they are nippy/quick but not fast, on track then it‘s a completely different story, the way you can throw them about and get in and out of corners is amazing.

My prev DC2 and DC5 are more fun on track than nearly every car ive owned (GT4‘s, GTI-R‘s, Evo‘s, GTR‘s), he only car that came close for fun was the Integrale I had.

The best way to get the most out of a DC5 is seat time, learn the car, do chassis, brakes, bushes and suspension work and let the high revving engine do the rest, number basing imo is a waste of time and a waste of a lot of money when you can be faster then you expect by simple bolts ons for breathing and better flow and the focus on seat time and enjoyment.

i‘d say just K100 and remap on current mods and poss mani unless you specifically want to spend an extra day 400+ for 10-12 hp and so on

The rbc and throttle body will cost a lot for so little and un-noticeable changes apart from on paper, but if youay want them one day then do at once to save on a future additional recap cost.

Ps congrats on the car

Personally I wouldn‘t touch any “skank2” stuff, not the best and deff not a high end brand (American company and cheap tat imo) lol

 

[sammy_g]

Welcome sammy_g! Which car did you have before?



1) £750 220-230bhp

2) £1.5k 230-240bhp

3) £2.5k 240-250bhp

4) Money isn't an object, bhp varies on supporting mods etc


Personally, I've opted for option 2 (albeit going TegToda and TegM)

10% increase in power and torque, esp the chunk in the mid-range, should make a big difference

I deliberated option 1, but the exhaust mani upgrade is good value when considering the extra gains & saves remapping later etc

Great thanks! Was driving a r53 mini for the past 4 years, running about 215bhp so fairly similar to the Integra.

Yeah I am leaning towards option 2 at the moment as well, definitely can't justify supercharging at the moment as much as I would love too!

 

[sammy_g]

First thing I‘d say is if you miss the power you got the wrong car, I‘ve come from huge power cars (1000bhp gtr was one of them) and Honda‘s are a completely diff car to buy, own and drive.

Mines running as below

K100, dc sport racing mani/decat, fujitsibu rm01a and an aem v2 long arm cai in the bumper and powers around 230bhp.

Nothing massive but it‘s the chassis and handling, on the toad they are nippy/quick but not fast, on track then it‘s a completely different story, the way you can throw them about and get in and out of corners is amazing.

My prev DC2 and DC5 are more fun on track than nearly every car ive owned (GT4‘s, GTI-R‘s, Evo‘s, GTR‘s), he only car that came close for fun was the Integrale I had.

The best way to get the most out of a DC5 is seat time, learn the car, do chassis, brakes, bushes and suspension work and let the high revving engine do the rest, number basing imo is a waste of time and a waste of a lot of money when you can be faster then you expect by simple bolts ons for breathing and better flow and the focus on seat time and enjoyment.

is say just K100 and remap on current mods unless you specifically want to spend an extra day 400+ for 10-12 hp and so on

Ps congrats on the car

First thing I‘d say is if you miss the power you got the wrong car, I‘ve come from huge power cars (1000bhp gtr was one of them) and Honda‘s are a completely diff car to buy, own and drive.

Mines running as below

K100, dc sport racing mani/decat, fujitsibu rm01a and an aem v2 long arm cai in the bumper and powers around 230bhp.

Nothing massive but it‘s the chassis and handling, on the toad they are nippy/quick but not fast, on track then it‘s a completely different story, the way you can throw them about and get in and out of corners is amazing.

My prev DC2 and DC5 are more fun on track than nearly every car ive owned (GT4‘s, GTI-R‘s, Evo‘s, GTR‘s), he only car that came close for fun was the Integrale I had.

The best way to get the most out of a DC5 is seat time, learn the car, do chassis, brakes, bushes and suspension work and let the high revving engine do the rest, number basing imo is a waste of time and a waste of a lot of money when you can be faster then you expect by simple bolts ons for breathing and better flow and the focus on seat time and enjoyment.

is say just K100 and remap on current mods unless you specifically want to spend an extra day 400+ for 10-12 hp and so on

Ps congrats on the car

Oh yeah, don't worry I am under no delusions about what the car is best for haha, not come from big power either. Was just looking for a little bit more performance than stock if anything was achievable without spending silly money.

Rest of the car seems spot on so far, running standard shocks with spoon springs, feels front strut brace and a frsu.

 

[carl hammond]

Oh yeah, don't worry I am under no delusions about what the car is best for haha, not come from big power either. Was just looking for a little bit more performance than stock if anything was achievable without spending silly money.

Rest of the car seems spot on so far, running standard shocks with spoon springs, feels front strut brace and a frsu.

Oh ok, I had a massive shock from a 1000bhp gtr but the dc5 is honestly much more fun and reliable and cheaper by far lol.

K100 (kpro only worth he extra if you wanna look into it also yourself), manifold and decay or sport car and a map and job done imo mate, will feel smooth and free up a nice amount of power that‘s all usable and won‘t cost you an arm and a leg...

 

[Crazylegs]

First thing I‘d say is if you miss the power you got the wrong car, I‘ve come from huge power cars (1000bhp gtr was one of them) and Honda‘s are a completely diff car to buy, own and drive.

Mines running as below

K100, dc sport racing mani/decat, fujitsibu rm01a and an aem v2 long arm cai in the bumper and powers around 230bhp.

Nothing massive but it‘s the chassis and handling, on the toad they are nippy/quick but not fast, on track then it‘s a completely different story, the way you can throw them about and get in and out of corners is amazing.

My prev DC2 and DC5 are more fun on track than nearly every car ive owned (GT4‘s, GTI-R‘s, Evo‘s, GTR‘s), he only car that came close for fun was the Integrale I had.

The best way to get the most out of a DC5 is seat time, learn the car, do chassis, brakes, bushes and suspension work and let the high revving engine do the rest, number basing imo is a waste of time and a waste of a lot of money when you can be faster then you expect by simple bolts ons for breathing and better flow and the focus on seat time and enjoyment.

i‘d say just K100 and remap on current mods and poss mani unless you specifically want to spend an extra day 400+ for 10-12 hp and so on

The rbc and throttle body will cost a lot for so little and un-noticeable changes apart from on paper, but if youay want them one day then do at once to save on a future additional recap cost.

Ps congrats on the car

Personally I wouldn‘t touch any “skank2” stuff, not the best and deff not a high end brand (American company and cheap tat imo) lol

Toad lol

Slippery on the road aren't they ha ha ha ha ha!

 

[bxlheathsupra]

Its probably a case of thinkkng how far you want to go and how big your budget is.
You ideally need the k100 to get the most from your mods but potentially require a re tune each time you add more mods.. so maybe best to decide what mods you really want and then map in one go.

I was lucky and had a majority of the mods on my car when i got it. Ive tweaked it to suit and then had it remapped to be spot on. Transformed the car.

Whatever route you go you will be happy but as carl said above seat time in the car ia the best performance mod you can get!

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk

 

[Crazylegs]

Its probably a case of thinkkng how far you want to go and how big your budget is.
You ideally need the k100 to get the most from your mods but potentially require a re tune each time you add more mods.. so maybe best to decide what mods you really want and then map in one go.

I was lucky and had a majority of the mods on my car when i got it. Ive tweaked it to suit and then had it remapped to be spot on. Transformed the car.

Whatever route you go you will be happy but as carl said above seat time in the car ia the best performance mod you can get!

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk

Sensible advice.

 

[big-pete]

Its probably a case of thinkkng how far you want to go and how big your budget is.
You ideally need the k100 to get the most from your mods but potentially require a re tune each time you add more mods.. so maybe best to decide what mods you really want and then map in one go.

I was lucky and had a majority of the mods on my car when i got it. Ive tweaked it to suit and then had it remapped to be spot on. Transformed the car.

Whatever route you go you will be happy but as carl said above seat time in the car ia the best performance mod you can get!

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk

This-
personal route im probably going down-
70mm RBC/RRC inlet manifold.
70mm throttle body.
Gruppe M intake or TegM is basically same.
Ktuned full exhaust with manifold/decat etc.(solid fab would be my go to if i didnt alreayd have this on the car).
Tegiwa Thermal Gaskets on TB and Inlet.
K100.
Decent Fuel- Vpower/Momentum.


as far as i can make out its the easiest/most reliable way to make power- you dont need clutch/gearbox/etc mods to handle the extra grunt.
and its not that expensive. im hoping to crack around 250 with the above mods- HOPEFULLY.

FYI- the cat is the worst part of the exhuast- get a decat find a friendlyMOT tester its well worth it.