Engine Went Bang - Help and advice please

[KarlShigDC5]

my engine is pretty much non-operational.

i have been told by a garage that it is most probably the big end that has gone. on doing some resaerch into sourcing a new engine for it i am finding that my best option would be to re-condition/rebuild the engine.

i was wondering if anyone has had to get this done and what it may entail part and cost wise for the job?

can i just get a new crank and pumps or do i need a whole new bottom end? :unsure:

cheers

 

[Saint Matt]

Sorry to hear about that mate, really it depends on what happened to the engine, why did it fail? A replacement engine will almost certainly be cheaper, it's just finding one.

 

[KarlShigDC5]

i recently had a new clutch and brakes fitted.

had the car back and the eml was on saying that the knock sensor was at fault. the car then started tapping and even though no oil light was on upon checking the oil then i found it was rather dry and en route to get new oil the sound of the car got even worse.

partially my own fault as i know i should have checked oil more frequently but also gutted as no oil light came on when the car was starting to require it

ive looked at replacement engines. Honda cannot provide one and all i can seem to find is a CTR EP3 engine which i dont really want to put in an ITR

 

[Saint Matt]

Ok, if it's ran dry then there's going to be a lot of internal damage, the cams need checking. The crank will need a regrind at the very least, bores, oil pump etc etc all need checking and if they aren't up to scratch then it will be a huge bill!

I recently bought one with a blown engine, it was my plan to put a K20A2 in it as to be honest when they're both mapped on a K pro with the same mods there's very little in it. You can get them for around a grand easily, but it's up to you. It will devalue the car, I was going to fix it and sell it, an expect around £5-£5500 for it.

Matt

 

[Topgeezer]

You might find an engine for sale in the breaking DC5 section on Fleabay HERE

T.G.

 

[davidpingu]

What sort of budget do you have?

When you say Honda couldn't supply one were you enquiring new?

If I was faced with this situation I'd probably look at buying new but thats just because I don't intend to get rid of it so it seems money well spent to me.

Some options would be an FD2 block which I'm sure someone like Steels could get hold of, an FN2 block which should still be relatively easy to get hold of or my personal preference would be a Spoon build from nengun. Obviously none of these options are cheap but it all depends what your budget is.

If its oil starvation as Matt says by the time you replace everything you could have just bought a new engine.

For info the FD2 engine has a higher output, partially down to the higher compression. The Spoon built FD2 block is even higher again!

 

[tricker_luke]

If you want to buy on a budget, get a k20a2 engine, with usual bolt on mods and kpro it will make 240hp.
It's the decision of spending £1k on the k20a2 engine, and it might devalue the car a bit, or spend £3k on the same mileage k20a engine.
Long term it would probably average out.

 

[C&S Evo7]

you cant really grind the crank much on a k20a as there isnt much scope available bearings wise, best bet would be a k20a2 bottom end coupled with your original head (assuming it checks out ok) i dont think you could measure the power difference with this combination,

 

[molten-ice]

Why not go all out, if the engine is coming out and it turns out the head is in good condition , why not pick up a k24 block and get that built up...

would make the best out of a bad situation....

 

[integraleo]

Why not go all out, if the engine is coming out and it turns out the head is in good condition , why not pick up a k24 block and get that built up...

would make the best out of a bad situation....

This! Yes it's a bad situation but if you are going to have to spend a large chunk of money to get it back to exactly what it was like before is rather disappointing. I've had similar issue with a dc2 with higher compression pistons,skunk stage 2 cams that seized up on cpls rolling road. Cost me £700 to get it home,£700 to cpl for ecu and tuning that was useless, £1200 replacement engine and £400 mechanics bill,ended up selling the car as soon as new engine went in.
I would love a k24....I've even seen one with stroker kit online making it 2.6 litres of awesomeness

 

[molten-ice]

i know the k24`s can be picked up for £500 upwards, and a good rod and piston kit to rev high and make reliable power is about £700, not sure how much to build and tune, but with a good intake and exhaust you will be 300bhp na!

 

[davidpingu]

Will the k24 rev as high as the k20? Always thought you sacrificed some of the high end character of the k20 for more torque, is that right or not?

 

[CaLi]

It won't rev as high, I think you can rev them hight if you want but expect some engine wear over time from the extra heat.

 

[davidpingu]

It won't rev as high, I think you can rev them hight if you want but expect some engine wear over time from the extra heat.

Thought as much. The high end revs are the soul of the car IMO. Each to their own of course.

What about things like weight? Does the larger bottom end come at the cost of more weight or is it negligible?

 

[C&S Evo7]

you can get the k24 to rev a bit but its not anywhere as cheap as people think, also for any stroker you can add a grand for an ecu plus mapping, best bet is a k20a2 bottom end

 

[qamvti]

They is fd2 type r engine for sale on the fd2 type r forum.