FRSU on standard shocks/springs

[GIBLETS]

Hi all,

Looking to have my geo setup after fitting new track rod ends and would like to improve the geometry if possible without sacrificing tyre wear as the car is my daily.

Is there much benefit in altering the geo on standard suspension?

I don't have any DC5 specialists local to me so would like to take some advice on the geo settings that have been proven using standard suspension.

Also interested in the geo setup that Honda intended on applying to the car from the factory, I've looked everywhere but can't find the standard geo settings online...

I've got a set of camber bolts and happy to buy the rear camber arms should they be required.

 

[spooke]

The camber isnt adjustable as standard, atleast the rear isn't, cant remember if the fronts are slightly slotted.

I'd recommend that you have something like 0.10' toe in rear and 0.00 toe front. You won't go through tyres with that.

If you were to add camber I'd go for -1.00' all round. Just make sure you can get the front toe in check afterward.

I've never found what Honda recommend, not sure if it's in the owners manual at all.

 

[GIBLETS]

Thanks mate,

Will have to check in on the manual to see if it mentions anything, going to have the geo checked and tracking set to make sure it's somewhere near prior to having new tyres fitted, not really wanting to shell out on the rear camber arms unless its way off on the rear.

Guessing the above will give a pretty neutral setup in terms of understeer/oversteer?

 

[spooke]

Yeah, it will drive neutral, if anything understeer which is more controllable that oversteer.

 

[GIBLETS]

Just checked the manual and the most aggressive camber settings I can find are for the 05-06 RSX and are as follows:

F - 0.3º
R - 1.0º

Nothing in for the type R, hopefully the rear will be around that and just a case of popping the camber bolts in the front which I already have.

On a mission to keep the car as standard as possible, I must admit it's tough!

 

[MilanoChris]

I wouldn't get so hung up on a FRSU, just get it aligned properly. The Mugen 20 FN2 which is a hell of a car to drive uses Honda factory geo settings.

 

[rexs]

When you boys get a geo done do they set the rake and if so to what ?
Also do they set the geo with a say hunter machine or string it up ?

 

[GIBLETS]

I wouldn't get so hung up on a FRSU, just get it aligned properly. The Mugen 20 FN2 which is a hell of a car to drive uses Honda factory geo settings.

Getting a local company to check it out tomorrow and track it up after fitting new rod ends a while ago and also to find out how it's all sitting at the moment.

Wheel refurb and new tyres next week then depending on how the alignment comes out depends whether I take it somewhere more specialised to have camber bolts/arms installed and tweaked by those in the know.

If I do this I'll probably use track torque who've been recommended by a forum member.

Unless it's all over the place I'll probably leave it close to factory....

 

[GIBLETS]

Had things checked out today on a hunter machine and not that bad.

BEFORE:

Rear Toe: L -0.04 R 0.02

Rear Camber L -1.16 R -1.23

Front Toe L -0.16 R -0.36

Front Camber L -0.33 R -0.17

After adjustments we ended up with the following:

Had front Toe set to 0.00

Rear toe in 0.10 per side

Rear Camber levelled out at -1.22 & -1.24

Front Camber didn't really move.

I'll leave it at that for now and have the Eibach camber bolts fitted later in the year and have it set up properly as all being well I'll be going to Grinspeed for other work to be carried out.

Would -1.20 camber all round be ok?

Seems that the camber arms would have been a bit of a waste of money had I bought them....

Not had much time to drive it though as went on my way home from work...

 

[spooke]

Had things checked out today on a hunter machine and not that bad.

BEFORE:

Rear Toe: L -0.04 R 0.02

Rear Camber L -1.16 R -1.23

Front Toe L -0.16 R -0.36

Front Camber L -0.33 R -0.17

After adjustments we ended up with the following:

Had front Toe set to 0.00

Rear toe in 0.10 per side

Rear Camber levelled out at -1.22 & -1.24

Front Camber didn't really move.

I'll leave it at that for now and have the Eibach camber bolts fitted later in the year and have it set up properly as all being well I'll be going to Grinspeed for other work to be carried out.

Would -1.20 camber all round be ok?

Seems that the camber arms would have been a bit of a waste of money had I bought them....

Not had much time to drive it though as went on my way home from work...

That sounds good, seems like it needed an alignment too

 

[GIBLETS]

Yeah I knew it'd be out at the front due to new track rod ends I fitted late last year.

Just the wheel refurb and new tyres and all will be good, ordered discs and pads all round too so be happy when they're fitted!

 

[Rom]

The arms allow for adjustment, if you're happy with what it is, then not needed.
Lowering a car will change the camber.

The front bolts were useless for me, I ended up slotting my shocks.

Generally, people look for double the camber in the rear, than the front.
But this is personal preference. I've been running a reverse set up for a while. Though I play around with mine a fair bit.

As for settings, no manual exists that I know of, other than the rsx one. Which is useless for geo. As we have different parts, wider track etc.

An frsu is just a name, it's not exact settings. Most places will set it up to whatever you ask. Good places will be able to advise you.

As for rake, you mean the level of the car front to back? If so, without coilovers, this is static. Some springs give a reverse rake, other don't.

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