geo setup help

jown

Advanced Member
Messages
144
Hello everyone, wondering if someone can help with my setup alignment (only toe) as it doesn't feel right after fitting new track rods and recently having the alignment done

It's on eibach lowering springs and that's all, it just feels like I'm always having to correct the wheel when driving

Thanks

Here is the setup print out

 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,737
The toe is 0 for the front which is neutral and normal mate but is yours a road or track car? Am I right in reading you’re running over 3 degrees rear camber and just around 1 on front

I run over 3 on both front and rear as it’s only a track car but why are you running so much on the rear vs the front ?

Where set that up mate ? If you want some settings go to my suspension review thread and see what setups I’ve had (all tried and tested and worked perfectly on road and track) but is mainly road run neutral toe all round to preserve tyres etc
 

jown

Advanced Member
Messages
144
The toe is 0 for the front which is neutral and normal mate but is yours a road or track car? Am I right in reading you’re running over 3 degrees rear camber and just around 1 on front

I run over 3 on both front and rear as it’s only a track car but why are you running so much on the rear vs the front ?

Where set that up mate ? If you want some settings go to my suspension review thread and see what setups I’ve had (all tried and tested and worked perfectly on road and track) but is mainly road run neutral toe all round to preserve tyres etc
I dont have any camber bolts or adjustable arms on the rear, just stock oem rear arms.
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,737
I dont have any camber bolts or adjustable arms on the rear, just stock oem rear arms.
That’s odd then as the rear cannot get that sort of camber on Oem arms mate it’s not physically possible as they are non adjustable?

Who did the geo, I’d Highly recommend getting it re-done as uncles I’m reading that all wrong somehow none Of that makes sense.

Without camber bolts and adjustable ear arms and just lowering springs you’d be getting roughly

Front Camber: -1deg
Front Toe: 0

Rear Camber: -0.8deg
Rear Toe: 0

With camber arms and bolts you can get around the

-1.5/-2 front camber and then want ideally in normal circumstances to run less on the rear

Stock geo details are in my thread below mate

 

jown

Advanced Member
Messages
144
That’s odd then as the rear cannot get that sort of camber on Oem arms mate it’s not physically possible as they are non adjustable?
Would be interesting to see other peoples print outs with springs alone
tbh I might just get yellow speed coilovers along with rear adjustable arms and get a FRSU
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,737
Would be interesting to see other peoples print outs with springs alone
tbh I might just get yellow speed coilovers along with rear adjustable arms and get a FRSU
Did you rear my reviews thread I gave the link too and and have you looked into suspensions are all? Other settings are useless to you as it all comes down to personal preference on how a car drives and feels but I have you oem and springs / damper settings I ran on a road and occasional track car then settings for a coilover on the road.

For a 99% road car I’d not be buying the likes of yellow speed. Your better off with springs or Bilstein b14 or if budget allows b16’s as they are far better quality and better for our roads. Normal ys are cheap tat mate. I have the area motorsport ones (They rebuild them and have a lot better spring rates but they are for track use) and trust me They are not that great on the road and the quality is nowhere near as good as Bilstein.

A Frsu doesn’t exist it’s just a more aggressive normal geo (like I’ve given you Two examples or above)
 

jown

Advanced Member
Messages
144
For a 99% road car I’d not be buying the likes of yellow speed. Your better off with springs or Bilstein b14 or if budget allows b16’s as they are far better quality and better for our roads. Normal ys are cheap tat mate. I have the area motorsport ones (They rebuild them and have a lot better spring rates but they are for track use) and trust me They are not that great on the road and the quality is nowhere near as good as Bilstein.
Thanks, wasn't too sure on the quality.

A Frsu doesn’t exist it’s just a more aggressive normal geo (like I’ve given you Two examples or above)
We managed to get it setup proper on the hunter, there was a setting for Honda Integra (Australia/New Zealand) 2002-2006 which is definitely the DC5 as the other model was Integra 1996-2001 (DC2)
 
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