Hard getting into gear
- Thread starter hon88
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I know exactly what you mean.
I first experienced this during track days it was difficult engaging the stick at high revs also coming down gear like 2nd whilst breaking hard for a corner was dreadfull.
It would never grind or make any noises other than feel very stiff and resistant to engaging.
I don't notice it now on road during normal conditions until I drive it hard and try changing usually fifth at top revs
My car has done about 90+k miles now on a Y Plate and has 6k oil/filter changes but I also have never done a g/b oil change nor does my clutch feel worn in terms of bite etc.
Any Ideas anyone??
I first experienced this during track days it was difficult engaging the stick at high revs also coming down gear like 2nd whilst breaking hard for a corner was dreadfull.
It would never grind or make any noises other than feel very stiff and resistant to engaging.
I don't notice it now on road during normal conditions until I drive it hard and try changing usually fifth at top revs
My car has done about 90+k miles now on a Y Plate and has 6k oil/filter changes but I also have never done a g/b oil change nor does my clutch feel worn in terms of bite etc.
Any Ideas anyone??
Like somebody metioned earlier, it's your clutch. You need to replace it. I had exactly the same thing with mine. The clutch had plenty of bite and never slipped but was worn and so never really disengaged when you depressed the pedal. At low RPM/Torque you won't notice that it doesnt disengage properly and the gears will feel like normal but hit VTEC and try changing and all you're doing is trying to force the gearbox to change while the box is still partially engaged to the engine and hammering your synchro hubs!
Change the clutch.
Change the clutch.
Hi there, its not forced to be the clutch, i have the same problem with my Teg.
At high revs 8-8500 its hard getting in to all the gears, if forced it even crunches, i've replaced the clutch + flywheel with an Exedy stage 1 kit, replaced the gear change cables, replaced the gearbox oil, + its not really that much better.
Its also got a Buddy Club ss. I've bled th hydraulic system, changed the fluid, even adjusted the master cylinder rod to the clutch pedal to give a bit more clearance, but its made little or no difference.
The biting point is very low on the clutch, maybe because its a stage 1 unit ? the oem unit used to bite quite a bit higher up, never gave any problems apart from being heavy + a bit noisey.
I changed the lot myself, not the easiest of jobs on your own in a small garage, but apart from the fact that i can't change gear fast now at high rpm it was worth all the hassle because the engine spins up a bit quicker now with the lighter flywheel. - Si.
At high revs 8-8500 its hard getting in to all the gears, if forced it even crunches, i've replaced the clutch + flywheel with an Exedy stage 1 kit, replaced the gear change cables, replaced the gearbox oil, + its not really that much better.
Its also got a Buddy Club ss. I've bled th hydraulic system, changed the fluid, even adjusted the master cylinder rod to the clutch pedal to give a bit more clearance, but its made little or no difference.
The biting point is very low on the clutch, maybe because its a stage 1 unit ? the oem unit used to bite quite a bit higher up, never gave any problems apart from being heavy + a bit noisey.
I changed the lot myself, not the easiest of jobs on your own in a small garage, but apart from the fact that i can't change gear fast now at high rpm it was worth all the hassle because the engine spins up a bit quicker now with the lighter flywheel. - Si.
Cal Type R
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i had this the other day too.... doesnt happen everytime tho, just sometimes seems to 'miss' a gear?
iv changed engine oil and gearbox oil as i do every couple of thousand miles (perks of working at a Honda dealer). is it worth changing clutch fluid? iv noticed a creaking noise when i change? tho now not sure if this is in my head :?:
any suggestions?
iv changed engine oil and gearbox oil as i do every couple of thousand miles (perks of working at a Honda dealer). is it worth changing clutch fluid? iv noticed a creaking noise when i change? tho now not sure if this is in my head :?:
any suggestions?
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Sorry to bump this one again its just I'm still not clear what route to take with this one.
Just to reiterate once again.
I can use the gearbox fine with no probs below 6k rpm. Clutch bite is perfect and there is no evidence of clutch slip under torque.
As soon as VTEC engages you can't get the thing into gear usually 3rd upwards seem to be worse. I've changed the g/b oil to MTFIII Ultra supplied by Honda and no improvement. Clutch and gear syncros all appear ok because changing below 6k is perfect, so I'm lost ](*,)
I'm worried the next steps of troubleshooting are going to get expensive and I need know what I do next is going to sort the problem.
The most frustrating thing is my vtec is rendered useless at the moment cause I just cant change bloody gear. oh and just to rule out my ability to shift and technique etc. Even if you’re cruising at say 60 in 4th. If you dip the clutch and rev car at a steady 5k you can select 3rd, 4th, 5th etc no problem As soon as you increase revs to over 6k something happens and those same gears will not allow engagement. It just feels like massive resistance like a gate has closed. My first thoughts were syncros not working but why should it work under 6k AAARGGGHHH HELP ME!! :xcry:
Just to reiterate once again.
I can use the gearbox fine with no probs below 6k rpm. Clutch bite is perfect and there is no evidence of clutch slip under torque.
As soon as VTEC engages you can't get the thing into gear usually 3rd upwards seem to be worse. I've changed the g/b oil to MTFIII Ultra supplied by Honda and no improvement. Clutch and gear syncros all appear ok because changing below 6k is perfect, so I'm lost ](*,)
I'm worried the next steps of troubleshooting are going to get expensive and I need know what I do next is going to sort the problem.
The most frustrating thing is my vtec is rendered useless at the moment cause I just cant change bloody gear. oh and just to rule out my ability to shift and technique etc. Even if you’re cruising at say 60 in 4th. If you dip the clutch and rev car at a steady 5k you can select 3rd, 4th, 5th etc no problem As soon as you increase revs to over 6k something happens and those same gears will not allow engagement. It just feels like massive resistance like a gate has closed. My first thoughts were syncros not working but why should it work under 6k AAARGGGHHH HELP ME!! :xcry:
brucey87
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i know exactly what you meen, when i was on the track it was awful trying to change down to second when in v-tec it just didnt love it and annoyed me! :xmad: i slipped gear a few times trying to find third too but might be just driver error?
i find the hardest gear changes are going up from first to second then to third the rest are fine. although sometimes its ok, maybe its just me? il get it all checked out on its next service. i treat my gearbox like a lady! stroke up and down fast but gentle :lol: is that the wrong way?
i find the hardest gear changes are going up from first to second then to third the rest are fine. although sometimes its ok, maybe its just me? il get it all checked out on its next service. i treat my gearbox like a lady! stroke up and down fast but gentle :lol: is that the wrong way?
pete_griff
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your best bet is to start with the least expensive things and just eliminate them one by one as you go. if it was me i would start with a slave cylinder and possibly master cylinder change and see how you go after a thorough bleed. if that doen't help then it doesn't leave much else other than the clutch itself - you're probably best off starting with the slave/master first, but then it also depends on how many miles the car has done, how hard the clutch has been treated in the past...coyote_dc5 said:
i'm not really that knowledgable with the reliability issues here as i haven't owned a DC5 yet and i'm not particularly familiar with all their "quirks!" and things which are known to go wrong. i would say it's a safe bet to start with the slave/master and go from there.
if yours is a particularly high miler, then i might suspect the clutch a bit mre - but you'll have to get some advice off someone who's more familiar with them if the above doesn't help...
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Does seem that general consensus here is clutch plate. I'll just be devastated if it doesn‘t cure the problem. I will look into changing and just hope it does the trickBadBadtz said:
Did you have the flywheel replaced or machined too?
Did you go for oem plate and how much did it cost you all in inc fitting?
Nope I left the flywheel as standard and it didnt need machining.coyote_dc5 said:Does seem that general consensus here is clutch plate. I'll just be devastated if it doesn‘t cure the problem. I will look into changing and just hope it does the trickBadBadtz said:
Did you have the flywheel replaced or machined too?
Did you go for oem plate and how much did it cost you all in inc fitting?
Exedy OEM clutch and fitting was under £400 from Unit-8
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I just want to comment how helpful and accommodating Unit 8 were today!
They completed a clutch fluid change at a drop of a hat for me which has helped ease my gear changes.
I would recommend this is completed in the first instance as well as new gearbox oil before the expense of a new clutch kit to all that experience what I am at the moment.
I will run the car for a few weeks now to gage whether in fact a new Exedy kit is needed or not.
Thanks to all who commented and again to Unit 8
They completed a clutch fluid change at a drop of a hat for me which has helped ease my gear changes.
I would recommend this is completed in the first instance as well as new gearbox oil before the expense of a new clutch kit to all that experience what I am at the moment.
I will run the car for a few weeks now to gage whether in fact a new Exedy kit is needed or not.
Thanks to all who commented and again to Unit 8