How do i bleed dc5 radiator

[jpdtm]

Hi all . Have a 2001 type R DC5 integra. Been having overheating problems . So put a new thermostat on the car .
Had to take of the fuel rail also , to replace a broken pipe . That was ok , then when i started the car everything
was ok for about 3 min . Then it starts to rev by its own.
Bottom pipe of the radiator is still cold after 20 min . Think its airlocked
ANY HELP would be brilliant .

 

[C&S Evo7]

fill rad to top, start and run car with rad cap off, you should see level drop when stat opens fill again to top and allow to run until level has stopped moving, refit cap.

if it continues to overheat i would guess you have a headgasket problem or smething similar, what was the original fault. ??? generally the k20 is not prone to overheating trouble.

you should also reset the ecu , by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes to see if the fault clears,
If the ecu thinks the engine is too hot it will add more fuel to try and compensate, which could cause iratic idle

 

[jpdtm]

Thanks for the advice . The original problem was the car was overheating after 5 min, water temp gauge going to max .
So its been off the road for six weeks. Driving me insane to be honest . Is their a any other way to get air out of the
system, like a bleed bolt. Anyway thanks again for the reply , will have a go at what you said .

 

[BadBadtz]

are your fans working??

 

[jpdtm]

The fan only work for about 30 sec . The the air con fan seams to work fine . I have put the heater on hot in the car
and the water level has droped , so topped up again . Went for a spin yesterday drove fine temp stayed normal , but
when i parked up and opened the rad cap it was boiling out .
The bottom rad hose doesnt seam to have water in it . Their is no leaks in the system , as the rad is topped up and
staying at that level .

 

[BadBadtz]

The fan only work for about 30 sec . The the air con fan seams to work fine . I have put the heater on hot in the car
and the water level has droped , so topped up again . Went for a spin yesterday drove fine temp stayed normal , but
when i parked up and opened the rad cap it was boiling out .
The bottom rad hose doesnt seam to have water in it . Their is no leaks in the system , as the rad is topped up and
staying at that level .

It's boiling water so of course its going to boil out....

 

[jpdtm]

Your right , i should know better . Been at it again this evening , battery disconnected and connected back up after
a few min . ECU light has cleared . Ran the car with the rad cap off . Temp on the gauge was fine the whole time .
After bout 4 min after start up the car starts to rev iratic . Ten min later steam starts coming out the top of the rad .
So i had ot turn off the car . Could the iratic reving from the engine be from stale petrol as its been in their for the
last six weeks .

 

[BadBadtz]

Your right , i should know better . Been at it again this evening , battery disconnected and connected back up after
a few min . ECU light has cleared . Ran the car with the rad cap off . Temp on the gauge was fine the whole time .
After bout 4 min after start up the car starts to rev iratic . Ten min later steam starts coming out the top of the rad .
So i had ot turn off the car . Could the iratic reving from the engine be from stale petrol as its been in their for the
last six weeks .

An erratic idle is usually caused by a sticky IAC valve...it gets bunged up with oil deposits if left standing for a long time and usually clears after a good hard drive.

Oh and leave the rad cap on! Why are you taking it off?? :xconfused: The water goes around the engine and is bound to get very hot...thats how water cooling works!

 

[C&S Evo7]

leaving the rad cap off can help get any air out of the system, just because it has steam it doesnt mean its overheating, if it is still overheating that quickly i would suggest taking it somewhere, it could be all maner of problems, blocked rad to water pump. thats the bit that really bothers me,
where do you live?

 

[jpdtm]

I live in southern Ireland ( cork ) . Its hard to find a good garage where i live . Most people just want to
drive the nutts off it . I remember bout two years ago i had the car parked up for about two months and when i started
it up and left it idle . It started to rev iratic back then also , so put new petrol in and a good drive seamed to sort alright.
Well just took it for a good spin and put a tenner of petrol in . No change still reving by its own ,bottom rad pipe stone cold
driving me crazy . I think
ill just take it to a garage .
Thanks everyone for all your advice , new to this site and find very usefull cheers . :xcheers:

 

[C&S Evo7]

so after 10 minutes driving the bottom hose is still cold?
thats really not great news, if you have aleardy changed the stat, and the rad itself is clean, you could be looking at the waterpump, i have never heard of one failing tho, cooling issues are pretty unusual.

have you tried it without the stat?

what does the temp guage read when you are driving?

 

[jpdtm]

Well good news . Just when i had given up , i started the car up and the reving was'nt as bad . Took the car for
a good hard drive after leting it warm up for ten min . Problem sloved , no more iratic reving and checked the bottom
rad pipe and it was as warm as the top one . The temp gauge stays at half way and has'nt moved passed that point,
so touch wood everything is sorted out . Just wanna thank everyone for the advice :xcheers: . If i had gone to a garage god knows
what they would have charged . Spose i was lucky it was just a thermostat in the end .

 

[C&S Evo7]

thanks for sharing, glad all is ok.