interior light / alarm issue

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
Basically the interior light won't go off, when I'm driving it sometimes goes off but it will flicker on and off.

After driving over long grass yesterday my car threw a cel, I have had this before under the same circumstances. I used the paperclip to check the code and it was the same, I then removed the ecu fuse to clear the code. Checked ignition to see it had gone then locked the car.

Presumably at this point the light stayed on but I didn't notice. I have checked both the push sensors on the doors to test but neither turned the light off after 30 seconds.
I then drove the car and when the light decided to go off I opened the door sand the light came straight on so that rules out the push sensors being faulty.

If I open the door and then push the pin in then lock alarm the car, if I release the pin it does not set the alarm off which it should do.

I have also removed the battery to reset everything but it still has the same issue.
Anyone have any ideas on what might be the cause? I'm thinking alarm is playing up.
 

davidpingu

Advanced Member
Messages
2,583
There's the boot sensor to check too but if it's not that I'd say you're probably right and it's the alarm. Almost sounds like it's shorting/earthing somewhere it shouldn't be for the light to still come on?

What code do you get?
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
the cel was 48 i think, think my o2 sensor wire must be loose as does it when driving over longish grass.

the boot is ok as the light inside goes on and off when i open close the boot.

i have also checked the bonnet sensor as that's linked into the alarm but it seems ok.

is there a chance i could have caused the issue by leaving my drivers door open when reading the cel using the paperclip or would that make no difference at all?
logically it sounds like a grounding/shorting issue because of the light flicking on and off as i drive but the fact that it happened after i read the cel and then took the ecu fuse out is throwing me.

if i were to disconnect the alarm and the fault went away i would know its the alarm, if not then its a wiring issue or broken door sensor (is it possible to remove alarm fuse?)
 

davidpingu

Advanced Member
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2,583
The cel will be unrelated. I think we probably all have drivers door open while reading codes, would be difficult not to.

The eml is just for engine management so these kind of wiring faults would have nothing to do with fault codes.

Fairly sure the boot is still on the same circuit. For instance if I open a door, the boot light still illuminates. Does sound like an intermittent fault with the door switch or associated wiring though. For instance you said the alarm didn't go off when you released the pin and the light stayed on when you held it in?
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
Yeah, light stays on even if I close the door and also stays on when I lock the car. The alarm usually turns the interior light off after a couple of seconds rather than the default 30 second wait if you close a door.

If I press a door pin myself and set the alarm, when I release the pin the alarm doesn't go off, presumubly because it still thinks the pin is pressed as the circuit is still complete.

Driving to work today when I go over a bump it makes the light go off, most times it came straight back on but others it stayed off till I hit another bump
 

davidpingu

Advanced Member
Messages
2,583
Think that's your answer then bud. It's just finding where in the circuit the problem is but certainly sounds as though it could be at the door switch from what you've said, or even the switch itself.
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
My plan is to try another owners switches one night this week.

Is there a way to isolate my alarm?
 

davidpingu

Advanced Member
Messages
2,583
I should imagine that if the problem is at the switch you could just twist the two wires together and tape up? Would mean the door would read permanently closed according to the alarm. Never actually done this though, just making guesses based on what you've said so if anyone else is reading this and thinking along different lines then shout!
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
i disconnected both door switches and the light still stays on when the circuit is saying the light should be off.

to rule out an ecu issue i tested the alarm with the ECU fuse removed, everything is the same as if the ecu is live, it works correctly, if i open the bonnet or boot and alarm the car, i get a beep to inform me something is not closed. if i alarm the car with a door open then i get nothing.

next up i decided to remove the interior light unit. i gather there is a permanent live feed from the battery to this unit.
when in the middle position for doors, a door open must complete the circuit (so doors closed must break the circuit and the unit has a 30 second timer built in? unless this function is from the ecu?)

i removed the interior light unit, there is an earthing screw on the right hand side, when i removed this the light still stayed on. i pulled the whole unit out to find the below,

not sure what the silver foil does? perhaps earths the unit onto the metal roof?

 

Mark_teg

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
4,361
Do you have a facelift or a pre? The way you're talking about it, sounds like you're talking about a factory alarm?.

A few people have had interior light issues with terminals corroding etc. but not actually anything visible (changed for new item and problem cured!).

Any basic electrician should find the problem for you. As Dave says, take things out or bypass them to help trace the fault.
 

davidpingu

Advanced Member
Messages
2,583
Cheers Mark, I'm out of my depth now! lol

I think what you are saying is its the same for either door is that right? The car lets you arm the alarm with both doors open but not the boot or bonnet is that right?

Not sure where the alarm links in to the door wiring but it may be at some kind of splitter if it's affecting both sides. Wiring can be such a headache. Could try the RSX manual diagrams but failing that it may be time to visit a sparky!
 

Mark_teg

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
4,361
Cheers Mark, I'm out of my depth now! lol

I think what you are saying is its the same for either door is that right? The car lets you arm the alarm with both doors open but not the boot or bonnet is that right?

Not sure where the alarm links in to the door wiring but it may be at some kind of splitter if it's affecting both sides. Wiring can be such a headache. Could try the RSX manual diagrams but failing that it may be time to visit a sparky!



You're fine Dave! You just forgot to ask if its a factory alarm or aftermarket :p
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
Mark_teg said:
Do you have a facelift or a pre? The way you're talking about it, sounds like you're talking about a factory alarm?.

A few people have had interior light issues with terminals corroding etc. but not actually anything visible (changed for new item and problem cured!).

Any basic electrician should find the problem for you. As Dave says, take things out or bypass them to help trace the fault.
its a pre-facelift with aftermarket toad alarm.

if the light did not come on i wouldn't mind. its the fact it wont go off grrr.

will source a good auto-electricion and see what they can find. (thought id try and rule out the basics myself first)
 

Mark_teg

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
4,361
Do you have a facelift or a pre? The way you're talking about it, sounds like you're talking about a factory alarm?.


A few people have had interior light issues with terminals corroding etc. but not actually anything visible (changed for new item and problem cured!).


Any basic electrician should find the problem for you. As Dave says, take things out or bypass them to help trace the fault.


its a pre-facelift with aftermarket toad alarm.

if the light did not come on i wouldn't mind. its the fact it wont go off grrr.

will source a good auto-electricion and see what they can find. (thought id try and rule out the basics myself first)

Indeed, always nice to have a go yourself! :)

As Simon will always say, it's probably the alarm at fault as honda's wiring is pretty good ;)
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
just to update on some new information.

if the done light is in the doors position and the doors are shut and the light is illuminated, i am able to turn the light off by depressing the clutch.

it has just got a whole lot stranger :(
 

davidpingu

Advanced Member
Messages
2,583
Isn't it standard feature for that to happen though. Normally if you get in and do nothing it will fade out after 30 seconds or so but if you go to standard start procedure it should go straight out.
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
davidpingu said:
Isn't it standard feature for that to happen though. Normally if you get in and do nothing it will fade out after 30 seconds or so but if you go to standard start procedure it should go straight out.
if you put the key in the ignition then yes it will fade straight out.

for me now, if i put the key in the ignition then the light stays on. if i press the clutch the light fades straight out.


EDIT:

Think i have now fixed this, had a right rummage with the cables behind the dash above the pedals, i was unable to see which of the cables made the interior light go out but it has, and thankfully everything is now acting normal again :)
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
It is broke again but the cause of the fault is 100% precise this time.

I can now turn the interior light off by pressing the clutch half way in, let it back out and the light comes back on.

Its deffo not the lose wire I thought it was. If I remove the yellow wiring plug from the clutch the fault disappears.

Anyone have any idea how the clutch wiring would cause the problem?
 

davidpingu

Advanced Member
Messages
2,583
What an annoying fault! lol

It has to be a bad earth of some kind. Clutch interlock switch should only have an effect in stage 3 of ignition which completes the circuit for the start sequence. When you complete the stage 3 circuit with the clutch it must be changing the flow of electricity and flowing through the line of least resistance.

The weird bit is you saying the fault disappears when you unplug that cable as the switch should still be open (no circuit) whether its connected or not as its depressing the clutch that completes the circuit. Needless to say I'm very confused but its almost certainly the aftermarket alarm system which is causing it as its additional wiring is probably what is shorting the circuit somehow.

Most likely a job for an auto electrician I think as you'll probably have to go back through the alarm system wiring. Just a guess though I'm sorry mate.

Can you just switch the light off at the switch for now so as not to drain your battery? May need to disconnect the boot light too
 

CaLi

Vtec Yoooooooo
Messages
1,851
davidpingu said:
Can you just switch the light off at the switch for now so as not to drain your battery? May need to disconnect the boot light too
could do but i still cant alarm the car as the fault is making my alarm continually go off. boot light is only on circuit when the boot opens.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

FIXED IT

the clutch was not the issue, turns out the clutch was causing slight movement on the bulkhead and in turn it was causing the fusebox to move ever so slightly which was causing the issue with the light. put my hand up the back to be greeted by some loose insulation tape, i have squeezed this tight again and pushed the wire right up so its not near the back of the fusebox.

fingers crossed, i get no more electrical gremlins :)


wire was right above the back of here
 
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