Most driveable set up

JordanSuth

Advanced Member
Messages
156
I've been thinking recently about starting to change a few things with my Teg. I've had it about a year and a half now so I'm pretty accustomed to the set up. I'm not one who likes to throw parts at cars in the hope of making it better.

At the moment I'm running nearly OEM setup bar:

- Top Fuel 1000 intake
- 5 Zigen cat back
- HKS F CON ECU

I was reading through someone's build thread recently and they moved from the Top Fuel to a Mugen intake. Better response in sacrifice for a quite intake.

I'm not interested in power figures as much. I'd far rather a better driveable car than telling someone I've got 10 more bhp. What's people opinions on where I should go?

I'm personally thinking a mugen intake along with a Fujitsubo RMA01 would be a start. Do I then bin the HKS piggy back ECU for a Hondata? And is there anything else worth changing while I'm there?

The OEM suspension is okay. It's a little crashy around town which is fine as its not my daily car plus my drive is on a slope so any lower and it will start scraping.

I've got a mugen baffle ready to swap over at some point just to protect the engine on track days. I also have plans on upgrading the engine mounts to mugen ones as the OEM ones are a little worn. Straight swap to mugen is ideal for me.

My plans with the car is a weekend car/road trip/occational track.

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carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
I've been thinking recently about starting to change a few things with my Teg. I've had it about a year and a half now so I'm pretty accustomed to the set up. I'm not one who likes to throw parts at cars in the hope of making it better.

At the moment I'm running nearly OEM setup bar:

- Top Fuel 1000 intake
- 5 Zigen cat back
- HKS F CON ECU

I was reading through someone's build thread recently and they moved from the Top Fuel to a Mugen intake. Better response in sacrifice for a quite intake.

I'm not interested in power figures as much. I'd far rather a better driveable car than telling someone I've got 10 more bhp. What's people opinions on where I should go?

I'm personally thinking a mugen intake along with a Fujitsubo RMA01 would be a start. Do I then bin the HKS piggy back ECU for a Hondata? And is there anything else worth changing while I'm there?
RM01A is an amazing system, quality is better than you'd ever expect, fitment is perfect, sound level track friendly at all times and it's loud when needed and wanted on track with a decent non raspy tone.

Mugen intake is far better than your current Top Fuel 1000 intake. Mugen is a very good intake for quality and low db levels, fitment is the same as oem, but it's not far off a modded internally oem airbox. I had one that I sold as I run the long arm cai down in the bumper but if I was to run a sealed airbox again it'd be a mugen or j's racing. The Mugen will be better as you wont suffer any heatsoak etc.

I don't know much about the HKS piggy back ECU apart from (from memory) they are very limited whereas if you had a K100 or similar you could select your tuner and use them going forward for any map tweaks etc. I have the K100 over the Kpro as I didn't and don't feel the need to ever look at anything or play with it. The max I would ever do is code reading and I use an OBD reader for that, anything else imo is worth paying a specialist to do.

The OEM suspension is okay. It's a little crashy around town which is fine as its not my daily car plus my drive is on a slope so any lower and it will start scraping.

I've got a mugen baffle ready to swap over at some point just to protect the engine on track days. I also have plans on upgrading the engine mounts to mugen ones as the OEM ones are a little worn. Straight swap to mugen is ideal for me.

My plans with the car is a weekend car/road trip/occational track.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Occasional track will be fine with all that setup, you may want to potentially consider some springs (spoon are the best imo) but you can look at the likes of eibach (a combo of the two types removes the reverse rake. I ran Spoon springs with mugen dampers and would highly recommend that setup as they removed the crashyness and the ride height was lovely with a really good stance.

That said if you want to stay oem it will be be fine on track but you'll suffer some reasonable body roll

The main aim as you have said is not to chase numbers, just get the car how you want and how you'd like it to drive and feel as that's more important than numbers that wont be noticeable in real world scenarios
 

JordanSuth

Advanced Member
Messages
156
RM01A is an amazing system, quality is better than you'd ever expect, fitment is perfect, sound level track friendly at all times and it's loud when needed and wanted on track with a decent non raspy tone.

Mugen intake is far better than your current Top Fuel 1000 intake. Mugen is a very good intake for quality and low db levels, fitment is the same as oem, but it's not far off a modded internally oem airbox. I had one that I sold as I run the long arm cai down in the bumper but if I was to run a sealed airbox again it'd be a mugen or j's racing. The Mugen will be better as you wont suffer any heatsoak etc.

I don't know much about the HKS piggy back ECU apart from (from memory) they are very limited whereas if you had a K100 or similar you could select your tuner and use them going forward for any map tweaks etc. I have the K100 over the Kpro as I didn't and don't feel the need to ever look at anything or play with it. The max I would ever do is code reading and I use an OBD reader for that, anything else imo is worth paying a specialist to do.



Occasional track will be fine with all that setup, you may want to potentially consider some springs (spoon are the best imo) but you can look at the likes of eibach (a combo of the two types removes the reverse rake. I ran Spoon springs with mugen dampers and would highly recommend that setup as they removed the crashyness and the ride height was lovely with a really good stance.

That said if you want to stay oem it will be be fine on track but you'll suffer some reasonable body roll

The main aim as you have said is not to chase numbers, just get the car how you want and how you'd like it to drive and feel as that's more important than numbers that wont be noticeable in real world scenarios
Cheers Carl. The only other one that seemed to tick my box was the Kakimoto Regu 06&R. It seems like a popular choice for DC5 owners.

In regards to intake I know ARC and Gruppe M are other good choices although between the 3 I don't think there is much difference bar sound.

I'll stick to OEM suspension at the moment but its something I may consider in the future. I would really need to take the OEM set up on a track day to see how it responds.

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jasonevans

Member
Messages
9
Fujitsubo RMA01 , Hondata K100 ( mapped 233bhp approx ) and a set of spoon lowering springs. Clockwise motion baffled sump. The ride will be firm but complient.
With the Hondata ( or any mappable ECU ) the Vtec point can be lowered ( anything from 4500-5200rpm depending on how engine reacts ) , This makes the car much more driveable and power is normally always on hand .
 

24Lemons

Advanced Member
Messages
225
Mugen intake is really quite. Air intake gains are never going to set the world on fire so you're buying it for a bit of noise and excitement. Open filters are likely to suffer from heat soak so either go stock, or check out Gruppe M. They seem to get good reviews for noise and performance.

(Mugen and stock intake owner)
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
Cheers Carl. The only other one that seemed to tick my box was the Kakimoto Regu 06&R. It seems like a popular choice for DC5 owners.

In regards to intake I know ARC and Gruppe M are other good choices although between the 3 I don't think there is much difference bar sound.

I'll stick to OEM suspension at the moment but its something I may consider in the future. I would really need to take the OEM set up on a track day to see how it responds.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Kaki is a very good system and imo has one of the best sounds ever, but it's louder. As you're only looking for occasional track you'd be fine but some track are very hard on noise so if db levels was a key thing then you want to go as silent as you can, RM01A or Mugen (which is very restrictive) but a great system imo.

Oem on track's ok lol, a bit floaty and a fair amount of roll but you have to try these things as suspension, cars characteristics and handling etc is all very individual as how for example I like a car to feel, drive, respond and rotate on track will differ greatly to yourself etc :)

The only time I have been on track in a car with a Gruppe M we were black flagged for noise and he was running the Gruppe M and an RM01a so be careful as that was at Brands and they are only getting harsher as times go on. It was noting like this back in the late 90's when started tracking cars
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
Mugen intake is really quite. Air intake gains are never going to set the world on fire so you're buying it for a bit of noise and excitement. Open filters are likely to suffer from heat soak .
Except from the AEM and Injen long arm cai's which sit in the bumper :)
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
Agreed, but I personally wouldn't buy one due to UK weather, my brother hydrolocked his engine many years ago with something similar!!
They are designed not to hydrolock and you can also get a hydrolock covers as additional protection but they are designed not to have that issue on these cars, one of the best intakes avail (but I don't use mine in the wet anyway unless on track)
 

24Lemons

Advanced Member
Messages
225
They are designed not to hydrolock and you can also get a hydrolock covers as additional protection but they are designed not to have that issue on these cars, one of the best intakes avail (but I don't use mine in the wet anyway unless on track)
I have seen but still personally wouldn't buy one.
 
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