Mugen HOA ecu

[delsoljon86]

Anyone got any experience with one of these? Heard they are amazing (in Japan) but don't know if it would work over here on uk roads as I read they need 100 octane fuel to run correctly. That may be bull but just want to find out more info. Heard they are better than a k pro set up

 

[beppe786]

just one map doesn't have part throttle map.. made just for track use.. could use it on the road will be more juicy on fuel

 

[delsoljon86]

Do you know when vtec engages??

 

[DC5RS]

I love it, lower rpm are amazing, it pushes incredibly well compared to OEM, VTEC @ 5200 for the first stage and 6000 full VTEC (its weird but you hear a small VTEC engagement and then pushes @ 6K hard). Feels much more torque and responsive, yes its juicy on fuel probably around 25% more but totally worth it for me. It is 5 months that I have it installed and it absolutely transformed the car.

There is one on sale on the for sale section right now for cheap.


PS. I use 98RON and works fine.

 

[delsoljon86]

Is that the n1 mugen ecu or the HOA racing mugen ecu!?

 

[DC5RS]

Is that the n1 mugen ecu or the HOA racing mugen ecu!?

HOA

 

[delsoljon86]

Have you/can you compare it to a kpro?

 

[DC5RS]

Have you/can you compare it to a kpro?

KPRO lets you get your own maps, you can adapt the map to your liking and drive style. Personally where I live I did not want anyone to map the car for me because I do not trust them. I cannot imagine a company like MUGEN making an ECU map just like that, they put effort and made different tests to make the final product and I trust their experience more than anyone else. (Not saying anything bad for the UK ECU tuners, I said I live outside UK).
I would vote for KPRO only if you have good tuners around your area, you can make the car economical and powerful at the same time.

 

[badbrowne]

I also am in the same predicament and was forced to buy this as they r no qualified tuners in my country. Vtec does pull hard and works fine for me. We use shell v power which i think was rated @ 98 octane. It runs a tad bit rich but i think thats just for protection against detonation. Mine is the N1 version with AC, although i thought it was the normal version until i passed 8600 rpm several times without hearing limiter cut in so i try to just shift pass 8000 rpm instead. Currently i have 70mm skunk megapower R, Toda Header and Gruppe M. When i fit 70mm exhaust i lost torque but got it back when i switched ECUs. Future goals is to get the car K'prod. Hope this helps

 

[beppe786]

mugen N1 need valve springs as it revs to 9200rpm if i can rem right!

 

[badbrowne]

It does but u don't make power @ that rpm so :xyes:

 

[Tricktyper]

Just wondering whether anyone has any more info on these? Doesn't seem to be much online...

From whats described above with the earlier vtec kick etc im fairly sure I also have one of these also. Is there anything recognisable on the ECU that would confirm my thoughts?

Lastly, I assume these cant be mapped and if you wanted any adjustments to the map made a k100 or pro would still be needed?

Thanks in advance.

 

[carl hammond]

Just wondering whether anyone has any more info on these? Doesn't seem to be much online...

From whats described above with the earlier vtec kick etc im fairly sure I also have one of these also. Is there anything recognisable on the ECU that would confirm my thoughts?

Lastly, I assume these cant be mapped and if you wanted any adjustments to the map made a k100 or pro would still be needed?

Thanks in advance.

I believe these are locked maps and you can't adjust them so you'd ideally want an OEM one with K100 or Kpro for adjustability and mapping etc.

These are made ideally for use with all the other mugen parts, Mani, exhaust, intake and so on and to see if you have one you will easily know when looking as it will have the mugen stickers/logo all over it and another sticker normally showing the mugen product code and a couple of HOA stickers also.

If your car's vtec crossovers earlier you may already have a K100 or similar in the oem ecu that you don't know about

 

[Tricktyper]

I believe these are locked maps and you can't adjust them so you'd ideally want an OEM one with K100 or Kpro for adjustability and mapping etc.

These are made ideally for use with all the other mugen parts, Mani, exhaust, intake and so on and to see if you have one you will easily know when looking as it will have the mugen stickers/logo all over it and another sticker normally showing the mugen product code and a couple of HOA stickers also.

If your car's vtec crossovers earlier you may already have a K100 or similar in the oem ecu that you don't know about

Thanks Carl, il have a look later this week when I get the chance and see whether theres anything obvious on it.

Vtec crossover is definatly earlier although I wouldn't say I hit full vtec until 6400/6500 like to be expected, which made me think I may have one of these with talk of the two stage vtec. Il do some more investigating and report back. :xgrin: xthumbup

Interestingly though, I was up at EFI the other week and asked him about this. (Without him seeing my car) and he said there wouldn't be a 2 stage vtec and might be just a flat spot in the map?!

 

[carl hammond]

Thanks Carl, il have a look later this week when I get the chance and see whether theres anything obvious on it.

Vtec crossover is definatly earlier although I wouldn't say I hit full vote until 6400/6500 like to be expected, which made me think I may have one of these. Il do some more investigating and report back. :xgrin: xthumbup

Each car will differ and I am not actually sure what the crossover is meant to be for a stock ECU as mine never had one. My K100 was originally switching at 5800rpm when I bought the car but since then I have made a number of changes and vtec re-mapps itself I believe from how romain was explaining it to me for its more efficient and optimal switchover and my new maps altered it to 4800rpm.

Here is some info on it so you know:

Mugen N1 ECU !


In Japan this is a RACE only ECU, this ECU is meant for N1 production races therefore there are certain regulations regarding modifications needed to supplement such an ECU. This means this ECU is effective ONLY when you have the following modifications in place :

a) Upgraded cooling system
(yes you need to be able to cool your engine beyond what the stock radiator is capable of otherwise the higher air/fuel mixture characteristics will go to waste and the engine overheats and causes unwanted side-effects like pinging/knocking)

B) Upgraded spark plugs
(you heard it right ! With the increase in air/fuel mixture ratio comes greater heat and therefore your spark plugs need to be able to handle higher temperatures and be able to dissipate that heat well! Try NGK spark plugs with 8, 9 or 10 heat characteristics)

c) Upgraded exhaust system
(Preferably Mugen's N1 catback system but others will do)

d) Upgraded valve springs
(As recommended by Mugen themselves for longivity and durability. Don't ignore this point!)

e) Run on 100 octane fuel
(which as far as I known is not available outside of Japan. Yes you can use lower octane with a booster or otherwise expect pinging or knocking)

This ECU will lower the VTEC engagement point, it will rev higher and give you more power but it will also consume more fuel, idle higher and disable your air-conditioner. It is a purpose built ECU and should be consumed as such, but it makes your car POWERFUL and it is definitely NOTICABLE (I am talking from experience here )!

So if you're thinking of getting one, think about what I wrote and make sure you have a clear purpose which is not STREET driving ! If you do buy it, make sure you keep your stock ECU and use it whenever you're not on a track or circuit or doing any competition. When you're about to go to a track or circuit, simply unplug the stock ECU and plug-in the Mugen ECU (go back and read this last sentence again !).

Does your aircon work? lol, see above

However there is a NON N1 version which is more basic and wont need all the above my friend has just told me and that won't disable the Air-Con and wont extend the rev limit etc just brings vtec back and makes the car run better with all the mugen bolt on's which its designed for.

So there's a NON HOA and a HOA version (HOA for reference means - Honda One-Make-Race Association), if you have a Mugen ECU I would say it's the NON HOA and so will be ok for road use but perform to its max with the right mugen bolt ons mate

 

[Tricktyper]

Each car will differ and I am not actually sure what the crossover is meant to be for a stock ECU as mine never had one. My K100 was originally switching at 5800rpm when I bought the car but since then I have made a number of changes and vtec re-mapps itself I believe from how romain was explaining it to me for its more efficient and optimal switchover and my new maps altered it to 4800rpm.

Here is some info on it so you know:

Mugen N1 ECU !


In Japan this is a RACE only ECU, this ECU is meant for N1 production races therefore there are certain regulations regarding modifications needed to supplement such an ECU. This means this ECU is effective ONLY when you have the following modifications in place :

a) Upgraded cooling system
(yes you need to be able to cool your engine beyond what the stock radiator is capable of otherwise the higher air/fuel mixture characteristics will go to waste and the engine overheats and causes unwanted side-effects like pinging/knocking)

B) Upgraded spark plugs
(you heard it right ! With the increase in air/fuel mixture ratio comes greater heat and therefore your spark plugs need to be able to handle higher temperatures and be able to dissipate that heat well! Try NGK spark plugs with 8, 9 or 10 heat characteristics)

c) Upgraded exhaust system
(Preferably Mugen's N1 catback system but others will do)

d) Upgraded valve springs
(As recommended by Mugen themselves for longivity and durability. Don't ignore this point!)

e) Run on 100 octane fuel
(which as far as I known is not available outside of Japan. Yes you can use lower octane with a booster or otherwise expect pinging or knocking)

This ECU will lower the VTEC engagement point, it will rev higher and give you more power but it will also consume more fuel, idle higher and disable your air-conditioner. It is a purpose built ECU and should be consumed as such, but it makes your car POWERFUL and it is definitely NOTICABLE (I am talking from experience here )!

So if you're thinking of getting one, think about what I wrote and make sure you have a clear purpose which is not STREET driving ! If you do buy it, make sure you keep your stock ECU and use it whenever you're not on a track or circuit or doing any competition. When you're about to go to a track or circuit, simply unplug the stock ECU and plug-in the Mugen ECU (go back and read this last sentence again !).

Does your aircon work? lol, see above

Legend - thanks carl!

Im going to have to test the aircon and see... Everything else sounds exactly like what I have but im pretty sure my aircon works! I never use it, but believe ive tried it once and the pump came on. I wouldn't of called it cold, but I put that down to needing a re gas!

Ive never found the limiter on mine either, ive revved passed 9000rpm before I got scared I may see pistons flying up through the bonnet soon. LOL. You dont make power up that high so ive always changed just before or at 9000rpm but another reason to make me think mine isn't a stock ecu.

Last resort, il take it for a dyno run somewhere just to be able to see better what actually is going on.

 

[carl hammond]

Legend - thanks carl!

Im going to have to test the aircon and see... Everything else sounds exactly like what I have but im pretty sure my aircon works! I never use it, but believe ive tried it once and the pump came on. I wouldn't of called it cold, but I put that down to needing a re gas!

Ive never found the limiter on mine either, ive revved passed 9000rpm before I got scared I may see pistons flying up through the bonnet soon. LOL. You dont make power up that high so ive always changed just before or at 9000rpm but another reason to make me think mine isn't a stock ecu.

Last resort, il take it for a dyno run somewhere just to be able to see better what actually is going on.

I would say you prob and hopefully have the NON HOA one as that's the best one for normal use without upgraded engine parts etc. I never trust the reading on rev counters but you also never know what's in cars from Japan.

My DC2 was apparently stock, my friend and I sourced it from one single owner in Japan and I bought it right away. He didn't let on too much about the car but it was mint and when I got it here we found it had had a bit spent on it over time as it was 96 spec and pretty much a complete delete option car (only thing it had was air-con) and rev'd to 10K, the thing was an animal...

The DC5 rev counter (not sure how accurate it is tbh as mines hit 9K easily many times on track but if that's accurate is beyond me lol), if the pump activates then its deff not the first ECU which is described in a lot of detail, if anything will be the second the NON HOA which is a normal ECU with Mugen tweaks to maximise the cars performance when run with the mugen bolt ons (pretty much like a K100 fitted here mapped to the owners bolt ons)

Message from my contact - I have seen many Integra DC5 Mugen ecu's over the years and I don't recall the last one I saw without the HOA stickers, however on the inside they were notrunning the HOA N1 Race ECU's chip but the normal Mugen replacement ECU chip so it seems they had HOA stickers added to them, reasons for this are unknown

Hope this helps a little mate, if the aircon kicks in and you have a mugen ecu it will be the oem replacement (similar to K100) static map for the car and for the mugen bolt on's I would say

 

[Tricktyper]

I would say you prob and hopefully have the NON HOA one as that's the best one for normal use without upgraded engine parts etc. I never trust the reading on rev counters but you also never know what's in cars from Japan.

My DC2 was apparently stock, my friend and I sourced it from one single owner in Japan and I bought it right away. He didn't let on too much about the car but it was unblemished and when I got it here we found it had had a bit spent on it over time as it was 96 spec and pretty much a complete delete option car (only thing it had was air-con) and rev'd to 10K, the thing was an animal...

The DC5 rev counter (not sure how accurate it is tbh as mines hit 9K easily many times on track but if that's accurate is beyond me lol), if the pump activates then its deff not the first ECU which is described in a lot of detail, if anything will be the second the NON HOA which is a normal ECU with Mugen tweaks to maximise the cars performance when run with the mugen bolt ons (pretty much like a K100 fitted here mapped to the owners bolt ons)

Message from my contact - I have seen many Integra DC5 Mugen ecu's over the years and I don't recall the last one I saw without the HOA stickers, however on the inside they were notrunning the HOA N1 Race ECU's chip but the normal Mugen replacement ECU chip so it seems they had HOA stickers added to them, reasons for this are unknown

Hope this helps a little mate, if the aircon kicks in and you have a mugen ecu it will be the oem replacement (similar to K100) static map for the car and for the mugen bolt on's I would say

Helps massively mate! I thought I may have the non HOA one but ive yet to find out for sure. Il do some more investigating armed with all the new info you've given and Il let you know once I find out anything concrete.

Cheers Carl! xthumbup

 

[carl hammond]

Helps massively mate! I thought I may have the non HOA one but ive yet to find out for sure. Il do some more investigating armed with all the new info you've given and Il let you know once I find out anything concrete.

Cheers Carl! xthumbup

No problem at all mate xthumbup