Part recommendations for more power?

[Mattz]

Just wanted to see peoples opinions and preferences. What parts would you be buying for a standard teg to increase power? Two answers would be cool to see, one being a realistic budget and the other using more pricey parts.

Intake:
Exhaust:
Manifold:
Inlet:
TB:
ECU:
etc...

Feel free to list any other parts that are worth the £/BHP gains?

I currently have a teg-m intake and exhaust (which needs replacing) but want to see how much I need to save for parts to get some more power and what people recommend. Would be good to see what manifold and cat-back combinations people recommend as well! (Preferably track legal ones )

 

[carl hammond]

The one thing I have been told by TGM to avoid is an RBC or RRC and TB change as pound for pound the gains are minimal for the amount you'd pay, better off getting a final drive over those.

Mines running DC Sport manifold back race system, K100 and AEM cai (that's it for power mods).

Complete exhaust system manifold back and K100 or K-Pro (if you feel the need to spend more) I feel are the best things to do with a good map it will feel nice and better flowing, after that focus on chassis and final drive etc

 

[spooke]

Intake: ARC or Gruppe-M/Teg-M or Injen CAI

Exhaust: Solid Fab 3" Super Silent / Fujitsubo RM-01A

Manifold: Solid Fab Big Bore / Tegiwa Toda Rep

Inlet: RRC / RBC If on a budget

TB: OEM Bored or 70mm Skunk2

ECU: Hondata K100 or KPro if you need bluetooth/data logging

 

[Mattz]

The one thing I have been told by TGM to avoid is an RBC or RRC and TB change as pound for pound the gains are minimal for the amount you'd pay, better off getting a final drive over those.

Mines running DC Sport manifold back race system, K100 and AEM cai (that's it for power mods).

Complete exhaust system manifold back and K100 or K-Pro (if you feel the need to spend more) I feel are the best things to do with a good map it will feel nice and better flowing, after that focus on chassis and final drive etc

What kind of figures did you get with just the exhaust, intake and map?

Definitely some food for thought there, I was thinking I would need a budget of around £3500 to make decent power...

 

[Mattz]

Intake: ARC or Gruppe-M/Teg-M or Injen CAI

Exhaust: Solid Fab 3" Super Silent / Fujitsubo RM-01A

Manifold: Solid Fab Big Bore / Tegiwa Toda Rep

Inlet: RRC / RBC If on a budget

TB: OEM Bored or 70mm Skunk2

ECU: Hondata K100 or KPro if you need bluetooth/data logging

I'm currently thinking about going for a solid fab cat-back for now and then purchasing the manifold once I have the KPRO. What's the price/bhp difference between the RRC/RBC?

 

[spooke]

I'm currently thinking about going for a solid fab cat-back for now and then purchasing the manifold once I have the KPRO. What's the price/bhp difference between the RRC/RBC?

Not sure on exact figures but the RBC is better value per hp, also doesn't require any modification to the bonnet catch which I think with the RRC you have to remove it. Wait until you get a inlet manifold before getting it mapped to save some cash.

 

[Reggie91]

Agreed with Spooke's list, but would reconsider the Teg m/ gruppe m as it can get you in trouble at quite a few tracks for noise.

 

[Ryanj1993]

Agreed with Spooke's list, but would reconsider the Teg m/ gruppe m as it can get you in trouble at quite a few tracks for noise.

There have been a number of members who haven't had any issues with it.

 

[DC5Curn]

Spookes list is spot on for power and with those mods you should be looking at 240-250bhp.

The 3" system is excellent for power but is loud.

The RRC helped mine breath at the top end with the drop in cams but I wouldnt go for it if you are just going for a good manifold, catback and intake.

 

[carl hammond]

What kind of figures did you get with just the exhaust, intake and map?

Definitely some food for thought there, I was thinking I would need a budget of around £3500 to make decent power...

My car came with all that on it and the previous owner had it mapped by Romain at Eurospec for economy so vtec kicks in at 5250 and goes to 9K. The power it made was 226 if I remember correctly but I am not looking or after numbers (been there done that with silly numbers on my GTR etc), with the DC5 it's all about usable power and being able to get it down and use it at all times and maintin the rev's so it could have 200 or 300 and not bother me as long as the power curve is smooth, the switch over clean and the outright performance acceptable I wont be changing anything.

The only reason I may need a remap is if I change the exhaust for another as this one will be a poss black flagger at brands due to the amount of noise my CAI makes also :-(

All the changes I have made to the car are to bring it back to life and safety proof it for track (baffled sump and so on).

 

[Ryanj1993]

My car came with all that on it and the previous owner had it mapped by Romain at Eurospec for economy so vtec kicks in at 5250 and goes to 9K. The power it made was 226 if I remember correctly but I am not looking or after numbers (been there done that with silly numbers on my GTR etc), with the DC5 it's all about usable power and being able to get it down and use it at all times and maintin the rev's so it could have 200 or 300 and not bother me as long as the power curve is smooth, the switch over clean and the outright performance acceptable I wont be changing anything.

The only reason I may need a remap is if I change the exhaust for another as this one will be a poss black flagger at brands due to the amount of noise my CAI makes also :-(

All the changes I have made to the car are to bring it back to life and safety proof it for track (baffled sump and so on).

What CAI you using Carl? Seeing comments about the TEGIWA makes me question using mine on track, although i have just bought a SolidFab Super silent track system.

 

[carl hammond]

What CAI you using Carl? Seeing comments about the TEGIWA makes me question using mine on track, although i have just bought a SolidFab Super silent track system.

I have an AEM long arm CAI sitting in the bumper in direct placement for airflow behind the vent with an injen hydrocover on it (not that it's needed as the design has been made in a way to prevent any issues from hydrolock etc)

I love the noise it makes (just the gap in the engine bay most don't like, but I spoke to Romain about removing it and he said for power it's one of the best available.

I have actually just been given a second one as I need one to paint whilst mines on the car, then I will fit the painted one as both are red and I have gone with a spoon yellow rocker so will be painting this yellow or black), the red one will then be just sitting spare.

 

[Ryanj1993]

I have an AEM long arm CAI sitting in the bumper in direct placement for airflow behind the vent with an injen hydrocover on it (not that it's needed as the design has been made in a way to prevent any issues from hydrolock etc)

I love the noise it makes (just the gap in the engine bay most don't like, but I spoke to Romain about removing it and he said for power it's one of the best available.

I have actually just been given a second one as I need one to paint whilst mines on the car, then I will fit the painted one as both are red and I have gone with a spoon yellow rocker so will be painting this yellow or black), the red one will then be just sitting spare.

Hmmm.. that was my other alternative. Seems their aren't many intakes over OEM that make little noise on track. I wonder if i'll get away with it having the SolidFab system.

 

[Reggie91]

There have been a number of members who haven't had any issues with it.

But there have been a number of members who have too...

Just talking from my experiences . It was more of a heads up. It purely depends on the tracks you visit too, but then why limit yourself...

 

[Elliot438]

All worth it IMO. Mine made 252bhp at TDi with mods and it made 220bhp stock (not sure how stock). So that's a 32bhp gain regardless of dyno accuracy. It's not just the extra power which makes it worth it, it's how the engine responds and feels to drive.

Skunk2 IM
Skunk 2 TB
Skunk2 thermal gaskets
Tegiwa intake
Tegiwa exhaust manifold
TDi North 3 inch exhaust
K100 mapped and TDi

 

[J-dawg]

All worth it IMO. Mine made 252bhp at TDi with mods and it made 220bhp stock (not sure how stock). So that's a 32bhp gain regardless of dyno accuracy. It's not just the extra power which makes it worth it, it's how the engine responds and feels to drive.

Skunk2 IM
Skunk 2 TB
Skunk2 thermal gaskets
Tegiwa intake
Tegiwa exhaust manifold
TDi North 3 inch exhaust
K100 mapped and TDi

I have this exact set up on my ep3 and have to agree. I believe all of it has made a great differance to the grin factor!

 

[Ryanj1993]

But there have been a number of members who have too...

Just talking from my experiences . It was more of a heads up. It purely depends on the tracks you visit too, but then why limit yourself...

well indeed, sorry i wasn't intending on coming across as argumentative.. What intakes are okay at most tracks do you know?

 

[carl hammond]

well indeed, sorry i wasn't intending on coming across as argumentative.. What intakes are okay at most tracks do you know?

Mugen
AEM
Injen
oem

They are the ones I know are fine, mine was find on static at brands but my exhaust although a lovely tone is loud on full chat (some speeds and rev's it's silent literally no noise) but in Vtec on full throttle it sounds amazing but I think it maybe on the limit. I am yet to test this but will keep the aem going forward and if needed swap the exhaust for a JDM Kaki or Fuji one as both ate jasma certified and proven

 

[Reggie91]

well indeed, sorry i wasn't intending on coming across as argumentative.. What intakes are okay at most tracks do you know?

Pretty much what was said above:

Mugen, AEM long arm/Injen or OEM with Hondata mod

My car passes the static test with an Rm01a without any issue at around 82db and that's with a tegiwa manifold, but I've been caught out on flyby purely due to the tegiwa m intake. As a result i had to keep lifting off around the mic's which kills the fun a bit especially when you're having a little battle on track.

 

[Ryanj1993]

Pretty much what was said above:

Mugen, AEM long arm/Injen or OEM with Hondata mod

My car passes the static test with an Rm01a without any issue at around 82db and that's with a tegiwa manifold, but I've been caught out on flyby purely due to the tegiwa m intake. As a result i had to keep lifting off around the mic's which kills the fun a bit especially when you're having a little battle on track.

Hmm, i'll have the Teg m intake and solidfab super silent system. So static im sure will be fine, jsut fly by im worried about haha.