Power drop

JustinEET

Active Member
Messages
83
Thanks Justin, if you're fine in Houston with 10w-40 then I'll be fine too, that place is hot in summer! But yeah I'll change to full synthetic.
My oil level is still at the right level after the track day
Ok good, well that rules out leaking.
Be sure to get those things installed. Oil Pressure Gauge is totally worth it if you are going to track often.
Hopefully your intake only gets to 60 C after sitting still for awhile. Because if its reaching those temps while moving. Thats bad too.
It should cool down once you start driving.
 

2Cent

Member
Messages
22
I’d personally be using 5w-40 still or as said above maybe 10w-40 on your hotter day. We don’t have it so hot here in the uk (I wish we did) but I like you so long sessions of 30 mins regularly and min is normally 20 unless I’m testing.

mate you not using fully synthetic ? Honda recommend 5w-40 fully synthetic engine oil.
As above (what’s the oil levels before and after each session/trackday, have you tried overfilling it slightly as you don’t have a baffles sump of drop in baffle in the sump)?
I used to use Castrol Edge fully synthetic on my Accord but it surprisingly didn't last as long as Castrol Magnatec semi synthetic despite costing almost double so I stuck with Magnatec.

I've been calling around and found a shop with Liqui Moly at a good price so I'll switch to that.

Overfilling is no good, it seems to just burn off. Overfilling the Accord always made it lose power too.
 

2Cent

Member
Messages
22
Ok good, well that rules out leaking.
Be sure to get those things installed. Oil Pressure Gauge is totally worth it if you are going to track often.
Hopefully your intake only gets to 60 C after sitting still for awhile. Because if its reaching those temps while moving. Thats bad too.
It should cool down once you start driving.
My intake gets to 60 every time and then stays there! I think I'll remove the left headlight, DIY a ram air intake from there and re-locate the battery. Time-allowing, I'll DIY a fiber glass hood with vents too.
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
I used to use Castrol Edge fully synthetic on my Accord but it surprisingly didn't last as long as Castrol Magnatec semi synthetic despite costing almost double so I stuck with Magnatec.

I've been calling around and found a shop with Liqui Moly at a good price so I'll switch to that.

Overfilling is no good, it seems to just burn off. Overfilling the Accord always made it lose power too.
The overfilling (slightly) not a lot is to prevent oil starvation on high G turns and to ensure that the oil is moved around accordingly. Ideally you don't need to do this if you run a baffled sump by means of welded in or a drop in baffle like the clockwise one.

This is my first recommendation with any car being used on track regularly or occasionally
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
My intake gets to 60 every time and then stays there! I think I'll remove the left headlight, DIY a ram air intake from there and re-locate the battery. Time-allowing, I'll DIY a fiber glass hood with vents too.
Are you cars LHD or RHD there? you could run the intake I run, the AEM long arm, sits down in the bumper behind the vents out the way of the engine and down in the arch getting loads of air. Injen and AEM do this kit and it's superb, I also have a hydrolock cover on mine but the cars not used in the wet anyway now due to being a track car, but this kit comes HIGHLY recommended
 

2Cent

Member
Messages
22
Are you cars LHD or RHD there? you could run the intake I run, the AEM long arm, sits down in the bumper behind the vents out the way of the engine and down in the arch getting loads of air. Injen and AEM do this kit and it's superb, I also have a hydrolock cover on mine but the cars not used in the wet anyway now due to being a track car, but this kit comes HIGHLY recommended
It's a RHD DC5R.
I have had a look at these intakes but I'd have to cut a hole bigger to pass through, relocate the water bottles and it would also get in the way of the brake cooling duct wouldn't it?

I'm leaning towards either the mugen style intake upfront directing air into an airbox above the gearbox or removing the left headlight and putting an airbox where the battery is. There's work to do either way and I'll fabricate all this myself to keep costs down. Shipping large items to this corner of the earth is expensive...
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
It's a RHD DC5R.
I have had a look at these intakes but I'd have to cut a hole bigger to pass through, relocate the water bottles and it would also get in the way of the brake cooling duct wouldn't it?

I'm leaning towards either the mugen style intake upfront directing air into an airbox above the gearbox or removing the left headlight and putting an airbox where the battery is. There's work to do either way and I'll fabricate all this myself to keep costs down. Shipping large items to this corner of the earth is expensive...
They come with a shorter smaller water bottle, I have had OEM, Mugen and AEM long arm which is the one I have kept for many reasons, great gains, no heatsoak and sounds great.

I think there maybe pics of it on my build thread from memory so you can see it (any where the bumpers off may show it)
 

2Cent

Member
Messages
22
They come with a shorter smaller water bottle, I have had OEM, Mugen and AEM long arm which is the one I have kept for many reasons, great gains, no heatsoak and sounds great.

I think there maybe pics of it on my build thread from memory so you can see it (any where the bumpers off may show it)
The attached image is what my intake is like right now. It's too exposed to the exhaust heat in this position.Screenshot_20201221-141318.jpg
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
This is mine ( very old pic ) but shows location and also the smaller water bottle that comes with the setup, it's great
3c48629ef6d658c812273d6849987934.jpg
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,481
Got a link for this intake?
Contact CPL mate - I cant remember 100% but they will confirm if this is the exact one:

It says out of stock but they can prob get on in or once you know the exact part number form them you can look around for that item :)

Also this is a good read about them if you fancy a bit of info on them
 

JustinEET

Active Member
Messages
83
PXL_20201115_201214190.PORTRAIT-01.COVER.jpg



Yeah I was thinking you were using the intake that goes back towards the header in order to get those high temperatures.
I have a custom intake made by a parts designer for Kseries. Then it gets fed air from outside from the fog light hole. As long car is moving it will stay 10 C or less within ambient temps.
 

2Cent

Member
Messages
22
View attachment 7478



Yeah I was thinking you were using the intake that goes back towards the header in order to get those high temperatures.
I have a custom intake made by a parts designer for Kseries. Then it gets fed air from outside from the fog light hole. As long car is moving it will stay 10 C or less within ambient temps.
That looks good mate, now close the cone inside a sealed box with that cold air pipe feeding it. Even better than cold air is ram air above atmospheric pressure!
 

2Cent

Member
Messages
22
They all do, that's why I use this baffle to prevent it from happening instead of a full pan baffle.
View attachment 7467

Blocks oil from sloshing into the chain case. And has trap doors to let any oil behind it drip back down into the oil pan.
Then I installed this line into the port for oil pressure switch that has a "T" at the end of it.
View attachment 7468

From that T I plugged my OEM oil pressure sensor back in AND my aftermarket oil pressure sender on the other side.
Which sends electric signal to my oil pressure gauge. I put the wire through the firewall around the area where harness comes through.
Hey Justin, what gauge kit did you use and do you recall the thread type on the block?
 
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