Ramair intake

[creation]

I am looking at getting the below induction kit.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ramair-Intake-Induction-Air-Filter-Kit-Honda-Civic-EP3-Type-R-With-Heatshield/271881684259?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Has anyone got one and what do they think of it. I know it's for an EP3, but I assume it will fit a DC5 ok as well? It seems much better value for money then the other ones out there.

I may also replace the intake pipe with one of these as well.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MTC-MOTORSPORT-HONDA-TYPE-R-EP3-01-05-INTAKE-INDUCTION-SILICONE-HOSE-VTEC-RED/263269024082?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

The main thing I am after is something that sounds a bit nicer and not too expensive.

 

[MilanoChris]

Just no.

 

[Midnight]

More than likely be sucking in hot air which isn't great. Idea of induction is to suck the most dense / cool air.

Lower the intake the cooler / denser the air is. That's why many like the behind the bumper lower one. As in theory it'll be sucking in the coolest air.

The ramair will work and I'm sure on a dyno will see better numbers than the OEM intake, but not sure you'll notice any difference in the real world. So if you're only after sound and on a budget it will work. If it's the best available is another question.

 

[Midnight]

More than likely be sucking in hot air which isn't great. Idea of induction is to suck the most dense / cool air while protecting / filtering any contaminated parts.

Lower the intake the cooler / denser the air is. That's why many like the behind the bumper lower one. As in theory it'll be sucking in the coolest air.

The ramair will work and I'm sure on a dyno will see better numbers than the OEM intake, but not sure you'll notice any difference in the real world. So if you're only after sound and on a budget it will work. If it's the best available is another question.

 

[Johngreen537]

Any in bay open cone filters will suffer from heat soak, especially on the k series as the layout means your intake is a few inches from the hottest part of the bay, the exhaust manifold.

While you might not notice it too much in the winter on an open road, just wait till you've sat in traffic for a while, then it'll really struggle till you get some fresh air into the engine bay. Then it's very noticeable. First time it happened to me I bought a scanner to check for problems, shortly after that, I walked away from open cones near the engine bay completely.

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[MilanoChris]

As above, open cone in the bumper only, failing that then a decent closed intake such as Mugen or ITG. I don't rate the GM any more after all the rattles I've had with them over the years.

 

[creation]

I am aware how induction works and that the colder air is better. I have used cone filters on other cars in the past such as my FTO and never noticed a negative impact on performance. The filter does come with a heat shield, but with it being an 'open' shield it probably won't do that much to shield the filter from the hot air.

I did think one thing I could do to make the heat shield better is to make it completely enclosed. I've got a 3d printer so may be able to design and print a lid for it and run a cold air feed to it.

 

[Midnight]

You're aware how inductions work but asking for advise on one of the poorest designs available for the DC5?

Seen the foam elements get that hot they've started to melt.

Simply put. As Chris suggested. Don't bother.

 

[creation]

I was asking for advice primarily cause I wanted to know how it sounds as that's the main reason for me wanting one. I am aware it's not the ideal design, but like I said I can adapt the design to improve it if I wanted to.

I think for a foam element to melt then the car must have serious cooling problems! My previous car an RX7 which run hot because it's a rotary engine and the engine bay never got above 60 degrees in traffic.

 

[Midnight]

The foam filter will sit directly by the side of the exhaust manifold. If you run an upgraded manifold the heatshield is naturally removed means even higher engine bay temps. The foam filter sits around 300mm away from exhaust manifold and 'can' and have seen them melt.

Nothing will really improve the design, they are poor from the start. You seem to have your mind already set so this thread is rather redundant.

 

[Snowbeard]

Spend the money on decent closed system, or just throw an aftermarket panel in the OEM airbox.

Any open cone is going to be pretty terrible come summer, no matter how much DIY shielding you throw in there.

 

[SamDC5]

I would get a second hand Gruppe M, people moan they rattle but as long as you foam the scuttle like it is from factory you'll be fine mine is silent and sounds fantastic. I'm not a fan of copy parts but you can pick up a brand new Tegiwa intake for £380, you just need to cut your own scuttle if you want noise.

 

[Snowbeard]

I would get a second hand Gruppe M, people moan they rattle but as long as you foam the scuttle like it is from factory you'll be fine mine is silent and sounds fantastic. I'm not a fan of copy parts but you can pick up a brand new Tegiwa intake for £380, you just need to cut your own scuttle if you want noise.

It took a few goes and a lot of faffing with foam tape but i've managed to get my tegiwa intake mostly quiet now...you get used to it after a while.
And the induction noise is worth the price tag alone IMO...i've never had anything quite like that with a car before, it's a real event when you hit vtec compared to OEM.

 

[SamDC5]

It took a few goes and a lot of faffing with foam tape but i've managed to get my tegiwa intake mostly quiet now...you get used to it after a while.
And the induction noise is worth the price tag alone IMO...i've never had anything quite like that with a car before, it's a real event when you hit vtec compared to OEM.

Bit of effort to get it right goes a long way, not everything is a just drop in fit some things take a bit of time to get right.

With noise, VTEC is an event and it sounds amazing. Never get bored of mine and would recommend one to anyone wanting some smiles

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[Midnight]

A little tamer when vtec is lowered for sure. It's gradual rather than nothing nothing... then noise.

No idea what's gruppe m used as a guide as surely it couldn't of been a DC5 lol.

It is poor fitting from the box but can be adjusted, attached with material so no noise or vibration.

 

[SamDC5]

My only knack with the Gruppe M is how loose is was inbetween the scuttle opening. Other than that mine fitted fine to be honest, even with the moulded scuttle.

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[Midnight]

Ours was a perfect snug fit but rattled and creaked all the time. Nothing some adjusting and Velcro didn't sort though lol.

 

[Jvzr]

It took a few goes and a lot of faffing with foam tape but i've managed to get my tegiwa intake mostly quiet now...you get used to it after a while.
And the induction noise is worth the price tag alone IMO...i've never had anything quite like that with a car before, it's a real event when you hit vtec compared to OEM.

How I stopped mine for a while with some rubber in the side but something else is at it now

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[Snowbeard]

How I stopped mine for a while with some rubber in the side but something else is at it now

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Mine was rattling on the OEM strut brace underneath it so i wrapped that in pipe lagging, then I also put a strip of foam on the top of the intake, as mine was banging against the bonnet when you changed the lower gears. It rattles a tiny bit now, but it's not too bad.

It's a real trial and error type thing, took a few weeks to get it quieter. When i first fitted it, rattles and buzzes all over the place.

 

[Johngreen537]

I just used number plate tape to hold mine to oem strut brace.

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