Rear Toe issues

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
Hey folks,

As some might have seen on my gallery thread I have rear toe issues, mainly on the passenger side. Both adjusters were seized according to the geo place so I have a few days to get them undone so they can recheck.

I've got the locking nuts off and using a 24mm deep socket I've released both the 'collars' (or whatever they're called) and they are now turning.

On the driver side, I can feel the nut turning the other side when I move the collar using the socket. I can also see that the wheel moves a little as I adjust. So I assume this one is now adjustable? It was pretty much bob on so I've probably knocked it out now. Be good it you could confirm this sounds good and doesn't need more work?

On the passenger side, the collar came off. When it's on and I use the socket to move it, the nut on the back doesn't move and the wheel sin't moving too, so I assume the nut still being seized will prevent it being adjusted. I took the advice from my gallery thread and tried to hammer out the bolt from the rear of the car forwards. It's knackered the thread so the locking nut won't go back on and it's refusing to move. I've used a lot of fluid on it too.

Short of 'a bigger hammer' any ideas on how to get out?

Thanks all.
 

James-T

Advanced Member
Messages
536
Drivers side now sounds like it's free. Brill!

Passenger side - I advised to undo the lock nut but keep it on the threads, so when hammering it wouldn't ruin the threads. Oh well - it's not going to break the bank to replace.

Are you able to turn the bolt itself at all? Have you tried an impact wrench on it? Massive breaker bar?
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
You did James - I was worried I’d mash the locking nut into the threads. I know I’m not always mega accurate with the hammer!

Due to the angle I can’t get my impact driver on it due to where the damper connects to the sub frame. A breaker bar would be an option but with a converter on to take it from 1/2 inch to the 14mm socket it’s too long to get in the gap - same issue with the impact driver!
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
I’ve just ordered a shallow 14mm socket for a 1/2drive which will just fit in the gap with my breaker bar. Hopefully with a bit of jacking up on the lower arm that’ll give me enough clearance to bring some more serious persuasion :)
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,351
I’ve just ordered a shallow 14mm socket for a 1/2drive which will just fit in the gap with my breaker bar. Hopefully with a bit of jacking up on the lower arm that’ll give me enough clearance to bring some more serious persuasion :)
Hacksaw the end off or halfway through, break it off and replace mate

I had to do that with a seized in bolt in my suspension (a mate didn’t do as I ask and wait) went ahead and air gunned a but on and it wrecked all the threads and wouldn’t budge

29 mins later I’d cut through it and then hammer and chisel through the rest of the but and it was off
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
Thanks Carl will give that a go if the breaker bar fails. On this one if I chop it off I still have the problem as it’s seized inside where I can’t chop but I get what you mean, hammer and chisel is closer to the issue then I suppose.
 

carl hammond

Advanced Member
Messages
3,351
Thanks Carl will give that a go if the breaker bar fails. On this one if I chop it off I still have the problem as it’s seized inside where I can’t chop but I get what you mean, hammer and chisel is closer to the issue then I suppose.
yeah then one ends open and maybe something on the end and smash it back through

that what I had to do, on a suspension part not the same exactly but worked
 

James-T

Advanced Member
Messages
536
You did James - I was worried I’d mash the locking nut into the threads. I know I’m not always mega accurate with the hammer!

Due to the angle I can’t get my impact driver on it due to where the damper connects to the sub frame. A breaker bar would be an option but with a converter on to take it from 1/2 inch to the 14mm socket it’s too long to get in the gap - same issue with the impact driver!
You can get an impact wrench on the other side, on the big locking collar/nut thing, that will still turn the whole bolt.

I know this as i undid mine with the impact wrench, it started spinning like hell and the wheel was going in out in out shake it all about. lol
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
You can get an impact wrench on the other side, on the big locking collar/nut thing, that will still turn the whole bolt.

I know this as i undid mine with the impact wrench, it started spinning like hell and the wheel was going in out in out shake it all about. lol
I don’t understand how? The gap to the other part of the arm is too small unless you had an angled attachment on the impact gun? See below the orange bit is where I’m trying to get to.

14E507BC-DAB7-4188-ADAB-E0286AB74A63.jpeg
 

James-T

Advanced Member
Messages
536
The orange circle is the head of the bolt. If you do it from the other side with the slide on locking bolt you should be able to get the impact on that no problem.
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
Ah yes I get you. The shallow 14mm came today and even with the breaker bar it didn’t go anywhere. Nightmare!
 

James-T

Advanced Member
Messages
536
What about a combination of someone with a breaker one side, and the impact the other at the same time? Obviously caution advised if it does break free the breaker could move round fast..
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
I’ve given up on this one - it’s going to Honda HQ in Cannock - they said the same about bolt seized to the bush. So they’ll replace bolt and bush to sort it. Only issue is it can only fit in start of Sept. so I’ll hacksaw off the hammered threads and attach the locker again best I can. Not like it’s coming off anyway!
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
Hello again all I wanted some confirmation if anyone knows. I will need to order the bush as well as Honda HQ said they'll need to get it out at the bolt will have seized into it.

On this diagram it looks like the bush is in two parts (one either side of the arm apparently, and number 31 on the diagram, part no 52365-S6M-004 and 52366-S5A-024


If I google those part numbers they just seem to bring up a normal looking bush thing, doesn't look like one goes one side of the arm, and one the other side. They also seem to look the same, not two different halves of one bush. Confusing. Here's two Amazon links, same number but they look the same just shot differently:

Ending 004: Ending 024:
Can anyone confirm before I order them both - £46 all in for both part numbers and VAT?

Thank you!
 

24Lemons

Advanced Member
Messages
176
I normally take part numbers from JP and have a look on lings.


I am surprised the garage want you to supply the parts.
 

rsmithinfo

Advanced Member
Messages
161
It’s only because I’ve already bought he toe adjuster, they said you might as well get the bush too and they’ll just charge the labour.

I don’t use Kings just because they don’t have my model correctly stated - there’s integras but not my chassis number so use JP.
My only confusion is over needing both sides when I thought it was one bush
 
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