SHG Rack Slider Install - In-Situ


Staff member
Seen people ask a few times for a guide on doing this job and if it can be done in-situ or not. I've been doing a lot of work around that area recently, and looking at it I thought it must be doable in-situ without too much work. I'm always up for a challenge so decided to smash it out on Saturday and take you all along for the ride...

Usual disclaimer, not my fault if you break your car or drop it on your head etc etc

  • If you've got an aftermarket strut brace (e.g. Mugen) between the shock mounts, remove it to give you more space
  • Remove your air box so you can see the top of the gearbox. I've got a Tegiwa one fitted so just removed the big carbon part and the heat shield
  • Jack the car up safely, onto axle stands, remove the front wheels
  • Remove the nut from the track-rod ends and free them from the suspension struts
Next up, we're going to remove the heat shield which is attached to the lower chassis brace and just above the exhaust manifold (in the two-branch section):

All of the bolts are removed from below... Top right is found just above where the driver's side driveshaft enters the gearbox:

Top left is found to the left of the flexi on the 4-2 section of the exhaust, in line with the coupling on the driver's side driveshaft:

And the bottom two are found just above the drain for the A/C, above the exhaust hanger:

Leave it loose in the engine bay, as we need to remove the chassis brace first. There are two bolts either side of the chassis, easily accessible through the wheel well roughly in line with where the track rods come through to the wheel well (photo taken from engine bay):

Unhook the heat shield from the brace, and then remove the brace through the passenger wheel well:

Next, carefully remove the heat shield, being careful not to damage any hoses with the sharp edges:

Next up, need to remove the track rod assembly. These are held on with hexagonal washers bent over the rack slider. I find the easiest way to remove these is to use my long Sealey pry bar to knock them back, but the job is made much easier if you've got someone to hold the end of the pry bar on the washer. They're bent on the top and bottom, and accessible from each wheel well. Have read online of other people doing it with a chisel, but I'm not a brute.

Next, turn the wheel all the way to the right which will move the rack to the left and easily accessible. Try and get the steering lock to trigger to keep it there. You now need to remove both the inner track rods - I find a crow's foot spanner makes this easier as you can put a breaker bar on it if they're tight. This is the setup:

You get the gist from this pic:

You should now have this in front of you, with a lock washer on one of the bolts. Remove this washer with a flat-head screwdriver


Staff member
Remove both the bolts, as well as the boot clip on the far-right of the boot and you'll be left with this:

Loosen the right-hand side of the boot up with a plastic screwdriver, or normal screwdriver wrapped in sparky tape. For the boot to slide all the way to the left, you'll need to use a screwdriver or pick to pull the boot over the two metal bushes in the middle. It might be easier to centre the steering, slide the boot a bit then move the steering back to the right to slide it back far enough to get to the slider. This is what you're trying to get to:


That threaded hole is where the rack slider would be, but I'd taken it out before taking this photo. It just sits in there so use your fingers to remove. I think mine had been replaced at some point as it was in fairly good condition, however was showing signs of wear:

Pop the metal bushings out, give them a wipe with a rag to remove the crusty grease and put them in your new slider. Cover the whole assembly in moly-grease.
Before you reinstall, slide the boot on the rack back and try and get any old congealed grease out with a rag, and re-pack it with moly-grease. Work it in by turning the steering side to side, but don't go all the way lock to lock as the slider normally stops the rack from going too far. You can use the holes in the boot to get to the other end of the rack, or remove the boot clip from the other end and slide it away.

Next up, put the greased-up slider back into the rack and slide the boot over. Make sure you locate the holes in the boot over the metal bushings. This is much easier with the steering centred:

Put a new boot clip on the boot. I didn't have one to hand so used a 60-80mm jubilee clip from Halfords which did the job fine. Make sure the boot is fully seated before putting the clip on (grease around the inside rim of the boot to get it to slide on easier). Obviously don't have a pic of it on there, but it goes here:

Finally to reassemble:
  • Install the track-rod mounting thing and torque up the bolts (74 nm)
  • Reinstall the lock washer on one of the bolts
  • Reinstall the track rods and torque up (54 nm)
  • Bend over the locking washers so the track rods can't come loose (hammer and pry-bar)
  • Install the track rod ends back into the suspension strut
  • Place the heat shield back in the right place
  • Install the lower chassis brace
  • Bolt the heat shield to the chassis brace and around the A/C drain
  • Reinstall your wheels / air intake / strut brace

Job well done, reap the benefits!


Advanced Member
I did mine with my engine out the car so it was much easier, but if I have to do anything else there while my engine is in. I definitely will grab that tool.


Staff member
I did mine with my engine out the car so it was much easier, but if I have to do anything else there while my engine is in. I definitely will grab that tool.
Makes it very easy to get in there. This is where I got it from


carl hammond

Advanced Member
Just thought I would add images of this and the part numbers etc for anyone doing this in the future, also including the torque specs:
Rackslider 1.JPGRackslider 2.JPG

⦁ 53449-S5A-J01
The larger band #1 from the opposite end of the boot
53536-S5A-900 Tie rod lock washers #2 (You need two of these, if you are replacing the tie rods the new parts may have lock washers included)
53662-S5A-003 O-Rings #3 (Two of these are required)
53535-S5A-003 Stop plate #4
53605-S5A-003 Steering rack slider #5


90455-S5A-003 Tie rod bracket bolts #6 (i'd recommend getting these just in case the old ones get damaged during removal, two are needed)
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