Shift Locking - Suspect Box Oil Leak!

[coyote_dc5]

So I had a new RPC Stage 2 clutch fitted 8,000 miles ago and at the same time new MTF box oil! Everything was going so well until probably a month or so in and I started to feel the odd notch when changing gears occasionally. Box was fully reconditioned 6 months ago so happy syncros are top notch "for now anyway!"

This progressed into more aggressive locking but usually only right up at high in the RPMs usually 8,000RPM or so. As time went on this got worse and ended up locking over 7,000RPM so its become a real pain in the a$$!

I've been troubleshooting the issue and naturally started to look into potential clutch disengagement issues. First step was clutch fluid bled and replace, hydrolic cylinders and lines checked and slave piston visually inspected and all operating normally. At this point I suspected either a faulty release bearing or cover or maybe even a bent clutch folk however shifting under normal engine speed worked perfectly!

Before jumping in the deep end and ripping the box out again I decided to just rule out box oil again even though its only been in 8,000 miles. Dropped the oil (didn't measure amount) and filled up just under 2x 1ltr. Took it out for a spin and immediately noticed light smooth shifting and effortless high RPM shifts also! BINGO!!

OR SO I THOUGHT......

A day or so into enjoying my Teg again the notchyness returned and after a good blast yesterday the shift locking has come back when over 8,000RPM.

It doesn't take a genius now to come to conclusion I seem to have a gearbox oil leak and levels are dropping quickly but only to a level enough to cause shifting issues and not to cause over heating etc On this basis the leak has to be fairly high up in the box so I'm thinking drive shaft seals!

Has anyone else had box leaks before and know the common places to inspect? If the bottom of my car was clean then it would be easy to spot but not so easy when its caked with oil anyway from a leaking cam chain cover too

I will to top up oil again soon to see how much has been lost and then race is on to figure out where its coming out of. Brands Hatch 19th of March!! :/

 

[ek4]

Going to be hard to pin point due to other leak you have. Very very likely that will be driveshaft seal.

Other options are loose drain bolt etc (which I highly doubt in this case) or crack in box somewhere (again highly unlikely)

Pain but if you have access to ramp degrease bottom of box and go for quick blast and get back on ramp straight away to see if can pin point leak. Probably only way youll know for sure sadly.

I had tiny leak on an ep3 so did above and turned out to be driveshaft seal so just bought 1 from Honda same day and replaced.

 

[nellly]

can you not just try and fill the box up again with draining and you should be easily find out how much you are loosing.

its not going to help find the leek but its a start.
as above about giving it a good clean should help spot new oil

 

[coyote_dc5]

Yep i've got access to ramps on Thursday so first action to fill box up again to see how much has been lost. I will make sure I have ordered new seals before Thursday too but annoying as will have to drain box to replace as presumably oil will come out if I remove shafts or will it not if it remains level?

 

[coyote_dc5]

On that note, does anyone have the p/n for the two shaft seals?

 

[Crazylegs]

Nightmare mate! Hope you get to sort it out pal.

 

[Rob.]

Yep i've got access to ramps on Thursday so first action to fill box up again to see how much has been lost. I will make sure I have ordered new seals before Thursday too but annoying as will have to drain box to replace as presumably oil will come out if I remove shafts or will it not if it remains level?

!

If the cars level you wont loose the oil with the shafts out..

Clean under the box an go for a run again, shouldn't be hard to see fresh oil leak if your loosing it that fast

 

[Rom]

Theres only a few places boxes leak.

Input shaft seal - Goes into bellhousing, eventually onto clutch. Will look like its leaking between box and engine.
Drive shaft seals - self explanatory
Casing - Unless cracked, will only be from the joints of the casing, so could be top or bottom etc, but on a joint.
Selector Turret - On top of box, where cables go
Bolts / Sensors - Will have some kind of bolt for reverse gear, drain and fill, some selector rod bolts (maybe, not looked tbh) sensors for reverse, VSS etc.

To change the drive seals in place, i wouldnt drain oil no. Just replace whatever leaks out as you normally replace oil.

Get a can of brake cleaner or something, give it a good squirt. The cam chain shouldnt be throwing oil over to the box ? So you should be able to find it. Also oil is different colour, and tastes like ass!
Go for a drive, come back, park it over some card board so you can see where it drips, to help you get a general area at least.

You dont need a clutch to change gear, it just helps Id be looking at oil / synchros first. Though you would obviously see clutch before you got to the synchros.

 

[coyote_dc5]

Thanks for advise matey, will report back asap

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[coyote_dc5]

So, now i'm confused. Oil was right up to the filler hole when we checked again tonight. I was hoping it had gone down and would have even put money on it!!

This brings me back to having to investigate clutch/gearbox issues. What I just cant get my head round is why changing box oil suppressed shifting symptoms for a day or two!

Box is going to have to come out again to inspect everything!

 

[C&S Evo7]

isnt it all new inside, ? synchros etc ?

Rom is right technically you dont need the clutch to shift but you will struggle to shift without a clutch when accelerating at 8000 rpm .

 

[coyote_dc5]

New RPC Stage 2 which came with pilot bearing so that was fitted at same time.
New box oil and clutch fluid
Box only reconditioned 2014

Only bit that's old, is Flywheel, clutch folk and hydraulic cylinders.

I'm at a complete loss with this now

 

[Crazylegs]

Why don't you let that girl from my work's fella have a look at it mate, supposed to be really good with gearboxes.

 

[Rom]

isnt it all new inside, ? synchros etc ?

Rom is right technically you dont need the clutch to shift but you will struggle to shift without a clutch when accelerating at 8000 rpm .

Maybe he's granny shifting, not double clutching like he should.


very good some excellent lines in that film, written by someone before synchromesh was invented .

 

[Rom]

Ha, have you edited my post instead of quoting?!

I shall have to report this abuse of powers!

 

[C&S Evo7]

oh crap, so sorry Rom, it was an accident, woops, the other forum i look after the quote button is in the place of the edit on this one .

my bad.

 

[MrRy]

From a more basic standpoint, it could be the clutch. If you take it apart and can't find anything wrong I would stick an OEM one in and skim the flywheel. Unless you are running much more lbft than normal. Then I would reccomend Competition Clutch. Their stage 4 paddle is very light and usable in traffic based on a few years of use in my DC2.

 

[coyote_dc5]

Yes my next purchase will be the stage 4 comp, heard a lot of great things. Flywheel skim is something I'll enquire locally about

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